Floor Tile Lap Quilt Pattern

Floor tile quilt

Floor tile quilt

This floor tile lap quilt design is based loosely on some floor tiles that I saw in the V&A museum – that place is a treasure trove of design ideas!  I have added some more colour to the blocks.  For the central area I added a design that is more usual around the edges of tile designs.  In the original floor tiles you can see that they have used plain squares for the alternate while I have repeated the nine patch block, but with different colours.

Floor tile design

Floor tile design

The quilt measures 38″ square, using 1/2 yard each of cream and light purple, 3/4 yard of purple and 1/4 yard of brown fabric.  I have used nine 10″ square finished size blocks with two borders.

As ever, you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the floor tile quilt

2.1/2″ squares:  twenty brown, twenty light purple, sixteen cream, sixteen purple

6.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips:  eight cream, eight purple

10.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips:  eight cream, eight purple

1.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ strips:  eight cream, four light purple, four purple, four brown

For the borders you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ strips of light purple and of purple, all across the width of fabric.

Using strip piecing

Using strip piecing

Make the first block

I have used strip piecing, but this is perhaps a bit wasteful of fabric unless you want more of the blocks for another project, as I did.  You may prefer just to cut individual squares and sew them together.  However if you are using strip piecing, sew together 2.1/2″ strips along the length.  You need to make panels in dark, light, dark and in light, dark, light.  Cut these panels at 2.1/2″ intervals.  This produces rectangles 2.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ made up of three squares.

Make the nine patch block

Make the nine patch block

Place a dark, light, dark strip at top and bottom with a light, dark, light strip between them.  Sew these strips to each other.  This creates a simple nine patch block.

Add a cream frame

Add a cream frame

Now add a 2.1/2″ frame around the nine patch block.  Add 6.1/2″ strips of cream to the top and bottom with two 10.1/2″ strips down the sides.

That completes the first quilt block.  It measures 10.1/2″ square at the moment and you need to make four of them.

Second quilt block layout

Second quilt block layout

Make the second quilt block

The second block is the same basic design as the first block.  This time I have switched the colours, using purple and light purple.  I have placed the dark fabric (purple) where in the first block I had placed light fabric (cream).  This was to add a bigger contrast between the blocks.

This block also measures 10.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

Use strip piecing again

Use strip piecing again

Make the central block

In the middle of the quilt I have used a railfence/piano keys type of block.  Again I used strip piecing, sewing together 1.1/2″ strips of cream, light purple, brown, cream and purple.  Cut this panel at 5.1/2″ intervals to create squares.

Sew together four squares

Sew together four squares

Sew four of these squares together, laying them so that the stripes are alternately vertical and horizontal.  I have chosen to place them so that the cream stripe is on the outside in each square.

The block measures 10.1/2″ square and you need to make one only.

Sew the rows together

Sew the rows together

Assemble the floor tile lap quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In rows one and three use a brown block at each end with a purple block between them.  For row three place a purple block at each end with the stripey block between them.  Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt borders

Add the quilt borders

Add the quilt borders

For the first border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of light purple fabric.  You will need two lengths of 30.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 34.1/2″ for the sides.  In the second border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of dark purple – two lengths of 34.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 38.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the floor tile lap quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/vw4NQua5vm8

Bradford by night

Bradford by night

Last time I visited Bradford to buy fabric I decided to visit the city itself rather than just the fabric warehouse.  What a lovely surprise it was – a lovely city.  To see my photos click on Bradford City or on the photo.

Edgbaston cricket ground

Edgbaston cricket ground

My daughter was clever enough to get tickets for one of the World Cup cricket matches held here in Birmingham and on Wednesday we watched the New Zealand/South Africa match at Edgbaston.  What an exciting match it was, with the result hanging in the balance right up to the last over.  Definitely a day to remember!

Oslo Norwegian Quilt – Free Pattern

Oslo Norwegian quilt

Oslo Norwegian quilt

I made the Oslo Norwegian quilt based on my recent travels.  The block for the central part of the quilt comes from a floor tile design that I saw in Oslo Cathedral.  It measures 76″ square.

Original tile pattern

Original tile pattern

I wanted to brighten up the design and make it fresh and cheerful for the beginning of the New Year so I have surrounded  the central area with diamond frames in blue and red together with lots and lots of white.  It’s a large quilt, but the individual blocks are very easy to make.

I’ve used sixteen blocks which are all 18″ square finished size. In order to make the quilt I needed 1 yard each of dark blue and red, 1.1/2 yards of light blue and 3 yards of white.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the Oslo Norwegian quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  one hundred and thirty six light blue, twenty four white, seventy two red – these can be made with strip piecing, so don’t cut them till you’ve read the pattern

3.7/8″ squares:  sixteen dark blue, sixteen red, eight light blue, forty white

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  forty white

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  twenty four white

12.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  twenty four white

For the border you will to cut eight 2.1/2″ dark blue strips across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Use all the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a white square with either a dark blue, light blue or red square, right sides together.

Mark a line along one diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the coloured fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Central area of the Oslo quilt block

Central area of the Oslo quilt block

Make the Oslo quilt block

For the central area of this block, you need to place four light blue/white half square triangles together to make a four patch unit.  Place them so that the blue is always in the middle, creating a blue diamond in a white square.

Add the next frame

Add the next frame

Make the frame around this area using light blue squares in the corners with a pair of red/white half square triangles on each edge of the central area.  Place these so that the white triangles form a larger white triangle pointing towards the middle.

Oslo quilt block layout

Oslo quilt block layout

The outer frame of the Oslo block is very simple.  Place a 6.1/2″ white rectangle on either side of a pair of dark blue/white half square triangles.  This is the same in rows one and six, but note that the blue triangles always point away from the middle.

Down the sides place a white square either side of two dark blue/white half square triangles.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Oslo quilt block.  It now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make four of these.

Use strip piecing

Use strip piecing

Make the alternate quilt block

For this block I have used strip piecing for speed.  Sew together a 3.1/2″ strip of light blue and red fabrics to make one panel.  Sew together 3.1/2″ strips of light blue, red, light blue to make the second panel.

Cut these panels at 3.1/2″ intervals to make rectangles consisting of either two or three squares.  These are 3.1/2″ wide by either 6.1/2″ or 9.1/2″ long.

Alternate quilt block layout

Alternate quilt block layout

Lay the sections out for the alternate block in six rows.

The first and sixth rows contain a blue/red strip with a 12.1/2″ white strip.  In the first row place the red/blue on the right.  In the sixth row the blue/red is on the left.  Make sure that the red square is always on the diagonal line.

Lines two and five contain one blue/red/blue strip together with a 9.1/2″ white rectangle.  For lines three and four you need one blue/red/blue strip with a white square on one side and a 6.1/2″ white rectangle on the other side.  It’s easy enough to check your placements by making sure that the red continues down the diagonal.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block is also 18.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make twelve of them.

First 2 rows of the Oslo Norwegian quilt

First 2 rows of the Oslo Norwegian quilt

Assemble the Oslo Norwegian quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  Make row one with four alternate blocks.  In the first two blocks the coloured diagonal runs up from bottom left to top right.  For the last two blocks the coloured diagonal runs down from top left to bottom right.

In row two place two Oslo blocks in the middle with an alternate block at each end.  Match the coloured diagonals to the blocks in row one.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

Rows three and four are similar, but forming the bottom of the diamond frames.  In row three place two Oslo blocks in the middle with an alternate block at each end.  Place the alternate blocks so that the coloured diagonals run from the sides towards the middle.

Make row four with four alternate blocks, matching the coloured diagonals to the block above.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Border in dark blue

Border in dark blue

Add the quilt border

I’ve used 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 76.1/2″ for the sides of the quilt.

That completes the Oslo Norwegian quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Florence Floor Tile Quilt Pattern One

 

Florence floor tile quilt one

Florence floor tile quilt one

This is my first Florence floor tile quilt pattern – probably one of many to come.  I have chosen a very simple geometric design from the tiles in the Florence Cathedral – partly because I didn’t have much time, but also because it’s such an eyecatching design.  I added the red cross in the middle just to give the quilt some pop, and because the design came from a cathedral.

The original floor tiles

The original floor tiles

The quilt measures 38″ square and I used 1 yard of green fabric, 3/4 yard of light fabric with just five 2.1/2″ red squares.  Many of the buildings in Florence use white marble from Carrara, green from Prato and a lovely rose colour from Siena.  The fabrics I have used have a marbled effect, but as you can see the light fabric is not white – I thought that a solid white might look too stark in the quilt.  The red that I have used is also much darker than the marble used in Florence.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a 10% discount in this week’s special offer.

Cutting requirements for the Florence floor tile quilt one

6.1/2″ squares:  four light

2.1/2″ squares:  sixteen green, five red

2.1/2″ light rectangles:  sixteen 4.1/2″, sixteen 6.1/2″, four 16.1/2″ for the sashing

2.1/2″ green rectangles:  eight 6.1/2″, eight 10.1/2″, eight 14.1/2, eight 18.1/2″

Add green strips around the central square

Add green strips around the central square

Making the Florence floor tile quilt one

Each block is built up from the middle, beginning with the light 6.1/2″ square.  Sew a green 4.1/2″ rectangle to the top and bottom of the square.  Press the seam allowances away from the square, then sew the 10.1/2″ rectangles to the sides.

The second frame is light fabric

The second frame is light fabric

The next frame is made using the light fabric, but with a green square in each side to link the inner and outer green frames.

The strips across the top and bottom are made using two 4.1/2″ light rectangles with a green square between them.  Sew these to the square.  The side strips are made using two 6.1/2″ light rectangles with a green square between them.  Continue pressing the seam allowances away from the central square.

Add the outer green frame

Add the outer green frame

Finally add the outer green frame to the quilt block.  That’s a 14.1/2″ rectangle across the top and bottom and an 18.1/2″ rectangle down each side.

You will need to make four of these quilt blocks.

Assembling the Florence floor tile quilt

Make the quilt sashing

Make the quilt sashing

Sew a red square to one end of each of the 16.1/2″ light rectangles.  This will form the sashing between the blocks.

Sew the blocks together in pairs with a sashing strip between each pair.

Make the central sashing strip

Make the central sashing strip

The sashing strip to join the two pairs of blocks together is made using the remaining two sashing strips with an additional red square between them.  Place the pairs of blocks so that the red square of the sashing will be in the middle of the quilt and then sew them to either side of the central sashing strip.

Pin from the middle outwards

Pin from the middle outwards

In order to make sure that the red cross forms correctly, it’s best to pin the red squares in place first and then pin outwards towards the sides.

That completes the Florence floor tile quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

If you want to see some more of my thoughts from Florence, click here.

 

Craftsy