Log Cabin Stained Glass Quilt Pattern

Log cabin stained glass quilt

Log cabin stained glass quilt

For my log cabin stained glass quilt pattern I have combined two of my favourite quilt techniques.  The quilt measures 36″ square, using nine blocks which are 10.1/2″ square finished size.  A square in square block forms the central block with some stained glass around the central diamond.  In the log cabin blocks I have used stained glass around each block but not within the blocks.  The colours run from lightest in the middle to darkest at the edges of the block.

I have used 1/8 yard each of white and light blue, 1/4 yard each of yellow, medium and dark blue, 1/2 yard each of cream and black, with 3/4 yard of red fabric.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the log cabin stained glass quilt

All the strips are 2″ wide cut size, so for the log cabins I will just specify the lengths of the strips here:

2″:  eight red, eight light blue

3.1/2″:  eight light blue, eight white

5″:  eight white, eight medium blue

6.1/2″:  eight medium blue, eight yellow

8″:  eight yellow, eight dark blue

9.1/2″:  eight dark blue, eight cream (this is the darkest of the light fabrics)

11″:  eight cream

For the central square cut one 7.7/8″ square in cream and two 6.1/8″ red squares.

Cut 1.1/4″ strips of black across the width -for the stained glass sashing – you will need about nine strips.

For the border cut four 2.1/2″ red strips across the width of fabric.

First half of first frame

First half of first frame

Make the log cabin blocks

Begin with a 2″ red square.  Beneath it place a 2″ light blue square and on the right place a 3.1/2″ light blue strip.Sew the two squares together first and then add the light blue strip on the right.

Complete the first frame

Complete the first frame

Make the second half of the first frame with white strips.  Sew a 3.1/2″ white strip across the top with a 5″ strip down the left hand side.  Apologies if the white strips don’t show up too well in the photo.

Second frame

Second frame

Begin the second frame of logs with medium blue strips – a 5″ strip across the bottom and a 6.1/2″ strip on the right.  Follow these with a 6.1/2″ yellow strip across the top and an 8″ strip down the left hand side.

Third frame

Third frame

There are just three frames to these log cabin blocks.  Begin the third frame with an 8″ dark blue strip across the bottom, followed by a 9.1/2″ dark blue strip up the right hand side.  The final strips look brown in the photo although they are more cream in fact.  Sew a 9.1/2″ strip to the top and finish with an 11″ cream strip down the left hand side.

Trim the blocks if necessary.  They should now measure 11″ square and you need to make eight of them.

Central square layout

Central square layout

Make the central block

Place the 7.7/8″ cream square in the middle.  Cut the 6.1/8″ red squares along one diagonal to create two triangles from each square.  Place one triangle on each side of the square.  You now need to make sashing strips so that you can add sashing around the square before you sew the triangles to the square.

Sashing strips

Sashing strips

Cut four 1.1/4″ strips of black fabric 11″ long.  Fold them in half along the length and press to create a fold mark down the middle of the strip.  Open each strip up and line up the edge of the strip with the edge of the square.  Sew the strip to the square along the fold.  Now press the black strip across the sewing line so that it looks as it did when you first pressed it, but it is know sewn to the square.  Repeat with one strip on each edge of the square.

Sew the triangles on

Sew the triangles on

Next sew two of the red triangles to opposite edges of the square.  Press them open and then sew the remaining two triangles in place.

Trim the edges

Trim the edges

Trim the middle of the edges where the triangle tips stick out.

This block measures 11″ square and you just need to make the one.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the log cabin stained glass quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In row one place three log cabin blocks.  Rotate them so that the blue triangle section of each block is placed top right, top left and then bottom right.

Seam partially sewn

Seam partially sewn

Cut two 11″ strips of black fabric for the sashing.  Prepare them as above, folding in half along the length to create a fold line to sew along.

Sew one sashing strip to the right hand edge of the first block.  Then sew the second block to the first block along the sashed edge.  Sew a sashing strip to the right hand side of the second block and sew the third block to the second block.

Rows two and three

Rows two and three

For row two place a log cabin block at each end with the central block in the middle.  Add two sashing strips between the blocks.  The blue triangles of the log cabins should be bottom left and then top right.

Make row three with three log cabin quilt blocks.  Place the blue triangles top left, bottom right and then bottom left.  My aim was to place the log cabins in pairs forming a sort of mountain shape pointing from the edge of the quilt towards the middle.  You’ll see one of these mountains on each edge of the quilt.

Sashing across the rows

Keep your eye on the needle

Keep your eye on the needle

When you are sewing the sashing on,  try to keep your eye on the needle to check that it’s coming down in the fold of the fabric each time.

Sew the blocks together across each row.  Trim the top and the bottom of each row to a straight line.  Your lines are probably already straight, but I find that I have to trim mine.  With a sashing this small it would be difficult to sew it to the row if there were ups and downs in the edges of the rows.  Your sewing is probably far more accurate than mine is!

Add sashing between the rows

Add sashing between the rows

Add the sashing between rows

Cut four 1.1/4″ strips of black fabric.  Fold and press them as before.  Sew one to the top of the first row, one each between the rows and one to bottom of the third row.  The actual length required is about 33.1/2″, but I tend to use a complete length and then trim it.

Now cut two further strips of black fabric, fold and press as before, and sew one to each side of the quilt.

You will no doubt notice that my vertical sashing is not always a straight line.  This would be for either of both these reasons:  either my seam allowances were not accurate or I didn’t trim the blocks to size accurately enough before joining them.  Just thought that I’d mention that so that you can avoid my mistakes.

Add the border

Add the border

Log cabin stained glass quilt border

In order to frame the quilt I have used 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 32.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the log cabin stained glass quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/Aun8OLGtPeo

Borough market and Southwark Cathedral

Borough market and Southwark Cathedral

Recently I spent some time in London.  I was lucky enough to have time to visit Southwark Cathedral – what a treat that was!  It’s right beside Borough Market, not far from London Bridge.  To see my photos click here or click on the image.

I have a stall at Moseley Arts Market tomorrow.  I’m hoping that the weather will be as warm as it has been so far this week.

Pinwheel Snail Trail Quilt Pattern

Pinwheel snail trail quilt

Pinwheel snail trail quilt

This pinwheel snail trail quilt pattern was quite easy to make and I love the way the design has turned out.  It’s another of those patterns than look quite complex but are quite easy to make.

The quilt measures 40″ square so it would make a good lap quilt or throw.  The blocks are all 12″ square finished size and I made five snail trail blocks with four pinwheel blocks.I’ve used 3/4 yard of lilac, 1 yard of purple and 1/2 yard of green fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the pinwheel snail trail quilt

2.5/8″ squares:  ten purple, ten green

3.7/8″ squares:  fifteen purple, fifteen lilac

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  ten lilac

3.1/2″ squares:  twenty purple

6.7/8″ squares:  eight purple, eight lilac

Cut the four patch units

Cut the four patch units

Make the four patch units

You could make these units by just sewing together two green and two purple 2.5/8″ squares.  I chose to strip piece them to save time.  Sew together a 2.5/8″ strip of purple and of green fabric along the length.  Cut this panel at 2.5/8″ intervals.

Four patch units

Four patch units

Place the resulting strips together in pairs with the purple squares diagonally opposite each other.  Sew the pairs of squares together to create the four patch units for the middle of the block.

Add the purple triangles

Add the purple triangles

First section of the snail trail quilt block

Cut a 3.7/8″ purple and lilac square in half along one diagonal to create two triangles from each square.  Lay two purple triangles on opposite sides of the four patch units and two lilac triangles on the other two sides.  This section should measure 6.1/2″ square.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles.  Place a purple and a lilac square with right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line and you will produce two half square triangle units.  Press the seam allowances towards the purple and trim the corners where fabric sticks out.  These are now 3.1/2″ squares.

Snail trail quilt block layout

Snail trail quilt block layout

Complete the snail trail quilt block

The central part of the block is now a square but the four patch in the middle has been turned on point so that it looks like a diamond.  Make sure that the green squares are side by side rather than above and below each other.  Now it is easy to add the remaining patches to complete the layout of the block.  I’ve realised that the main photo of the quilt was taken with the green squares above each other, but that’s just because I must have rotated the quilt before I hung it up for the photo.

Lay a 6.1/2″ lilac rectangle at the beginning of row one.  Place a half square triangle and a 3.1/2″ purple square at the end of the row.  Lay the half square triangle so that the purple is on top with the lilac between it.  Lay a purple square and a half square triangle on either side of the central area.  On the left the square is beneath the half square triangle and together they form a half-house shape.  On the right the square is above the half square triangle and the half-house shape is now upside down.

For the last row place a purple square and half square triangle at the beginning of the row with the remaining lilac rectangle at the end.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  At this stage it measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make five of these.

Alternate block pinwheels

Alternate block pinwheels

Pinwheel alternate block

I have used a simple pinwheel as the alternate block.  Using the 6.7/8″ squares, make half square triangles in exactly the same way as for the smaller squares above.

Lay these out in two pairs so that the colours alternate all the way round – check the photo.  Sew the pairs of squares together and then sew the pairs to each other.  This block also measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of these.

Rows one and three

Rows one and three

Assemble the pinwheel snail trail quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  Rows one and three are the same as each other:  a snail trail block at each end with a pinwheel in the middle.  Make sure that you keep the green squares side by side across the row.

Row two

Row two

In row two place a pinwheel at each end with a snail trail block in the middle.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the border

Add the border

Quilt border

I have used 2.1/2″ green strips for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the pinwheel snail trail quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/9SWleUiri3Q

Jewellery Quarter

Jewellery Quarter

Last week I visited the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham.  It’s a lovely vibrant area of the city with a wealth of history.  To see my photos click here or click on the photo.

I have a very old overlocker which was a basic model even when I bought it many years ago.  This week I have been trying to make scarves and my overlocker has really not been very helpful.  I’ve warned it that I will retire it if it doesn’t behave, but that doesn’t seem to have made any difference.

 

Flying Geese Quilt Pattern

Flying geese quilt

Flying geese quilt

For this flying geese quilt pattern I have used a different technique from my usual method.  The flying geese are quite large and so it was simplest to just sew three triangles together.  I’ve used them to encircle a central area, creating a quilt with a circular look to it.

The quilt measures 56″ square.  I have used 1 yard each of navy blue and white, 3/4 yard of dark blue and medium blue, with 1/2 yard of light blue.  Each block is 12″ square finished size and there are twelve of them with two borders.  You can buy these fabrics in this week’s special offer.  For a multitude of reasons I am holding a sale of 20% off across the whole shop as well.  Details at the bottom of the page.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the flying geese quilt

My apologies for the light and shade in the photo.

12.7/8″ squares:  two dark blue, two white

6.7/8″ squares:  eight dark blue, sixteen medium blue, eight navy blue, all cut along one diagonal

7.1/4″ squares:  twelve light blue cut along both diagonals

4.3/4″ squares:  four dark blue

3.7/8″ squares:  eight white cut along one diagonal

For the first border you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric.

For the second border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric.

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Make the central blocks

This block is a simple square in a square in a square block.  Begin with a 4.3/4″ dark blue square in the middle.  Cut the white 3.7/8″ squares along one diagonal and place one triangle on each edge of the blue square.

Sew the triangles two at a time

Sew the triangles two at a time

Sew the side triangles to the square, press them open and then sew the remaining two triangles to the top and bottom.  Press again and trim the middle of the edges where the triangle tips stick out.  At this stage the block measures 6.1/2″ on each edge.

Add the light blue frame

Add the light blue frame

Now cut the 7.1/4″ light blue squares along both diagonals.  Place one triangle on each edge of the square.  Sew them to the square two at a time as before.

Finish with dark blue

Finish with dark blue

Finally cut the 6.7/8″ dark blue squares along one diagonal and place a triangle on each edge.  Again sew them to the square two at a time.

That completes the central block.  It measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

Corner blocks

Corner blocks

Make the corner blocks

These are simplicity itself.  Cut the 12.7/8″ squares along one diagonal.  Sew a dark blue triangle to a white triangle.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue.

The square measures 12.1/2″ at this stage and you need to make four of them.

Lay the triangles out

Lay the triangles out

The flying geese blocks

Finally we get to the flying geese blocks.

Use the 6.7/8″ navy blue squares cut along one diagonal for the central part of the section.  Cut the 7.1/4″ light blue squares along both diagonals to make the triangles.

Sew one triangle on

Sew one triangle on

Sew one light blue triangle to the navy blue, press and then sew the other light blue triangle in place.  Trim the middle of the top and the two ends of the bottom where fabric sticks out.

Sew two units together

Sew two units together

Sew two of these units together, making sure that the triangles point in the same direction.

Add medium blue triangles

Add medium blue triangles

Finally cut the 6.7/8″ medium blue squares along one diagonal.  Place one of these triangles on each edge of the square.  As before, sew them on two at a time.

That completes the flying geese quilt block.  It measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make eight of them.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the flying geese quilt

Lay the blocks out in four rows of four.

In row one place a half square triangle at each end.  Make sure that the blue is one the inside and the white on the outside.  In the middle place two flying geese blocks.  I have chosen to place the flying geese so that they point from the central top towards the sides and from the central bottom towards the sides.  You may prefer a different arrangement.  In row two lay a geese block at each end with two of the square in a square blocks in the middle.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

Rows three and four are similar.  In row three you need a flying geese quilt block at each end with two square in a square blocks in the middle.  Form the fourth row with a half square triangle at each end and two flying geese in the middle.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the borders

Add the borders

Quilt borders

I’ve used 2,1.2″ strips of white for the first border to emphasise the circular look of the quilt design.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the sides.

The navy blue of the second border provides a good frame for the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 56.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the flying geese quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/JpWtgj9A3iM

Last week my second grand daugher, Alice, was born.  Great excitement in all the family!  In addition it was my daughter’s birthday yesterday and today is officially the first day of spring – as well as being St David’s Day.

Tapestry fabric

Tapestry fabric

I thought that such a momentous week needed to be celebrated so I am offering 20% off across the whole shop on all orders over £6.  To visit the shop click here or click on the photo.  I’ve also bought some rather gorgeous cotton tapestry and cotton canvas fabrics which are perfect for making cushion/pillow covers. They are included in the sale.   I’ve been busy making cushions all week for a craft stall at the MAC on Sunday.

For my travels, I went to a trade show at the National Exhibition Centre here in Birmingham.  That was where I saw and bought most of these lovely new fabrics.  To see my photos and what was happening at the show click here.

Attic Windows Quilt Pattern

Attic windows quilt

Attic windows quilt

I’ve made the attic windows quilt pattern using fabric patterns to represent the view outside the window.  You’ve probably seen the quilts where a picture is built up outside the window, but for this pattern I just wanted to show you the basic technique of creating an attic windows design.  In order to create the three dimensional look of the window frame I have used three different brown:  medium brown for the uprights with light and dark brown for the horizontal sashing strips.

The quilt measures 51″ by 78″ finished size. I used 9.1/2″ strips of the sky, floral and grass fabrics with 3/4 yard of medium brown, 1/2 yard of light brown and 1/4 yard of dark brown.  For the border I used a further 1/2 yard of the red metallic floral fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the attic windows quilt

9.1/2″ squares:  three sky, six floral, three grass.

3.1/2″ by 9.1/2″ rectangles: sixteen medium brown.

3.7/8″ squares:  eight medium brown.

2.3/4″ squares:  eight light brown, with eight 1.3/4″ squares of dark brown. Read the pattern in full before you cut these as they can be strip pieced.

3.1/2″ squares:  eight medium brown.

9.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips:  twelve light brown, together with 9.1/2″ by 1.1/2″:  twelve dark brown.  Again read the pattern before you cut these as they can be strip pieced.

One 3.1/2″ by 39.1/2″ strip of medium brown.

For the border you will need to cut five 3.1/2″ strips of the red fabric across the width of fabric.

First row

First row

Form the rows

For the first row lay out three blue 9.1/2″ squares with four 9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ medium brown sashing strips.  That’s one sashing strip at each end of the row and one between each pair of rows.  Sew the pieces together across the row.

Rows 2 and 3

Rows 2 and 3

In order to make the next two rows, use six of the floral squares.  Same idea:  three squares and four sashing strips to each row.

Fourth row

Fourth row

Finally for the fourth row place three green squares with four sashing strips between them.  You’ll see that I have cut the grass fabric in different places.  This is just to provide a little more interest to the quilt.

Sew together light and dark

Sew together light and dark

Make the half square triangle units

These units may look complicated, but the technique is quite simple if you take it step by step.  Begin by sewing together 2.3/4″ lengths of light brown and 1.3/4″ lengths of dark brown along the length.  Cut this panel at 3.7/8″ intervals to make 3.7/8″ squares.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

In order to make the half square triangles you need one 3.7/8″ medium brown square with one light/dark 3.7/8″ square (top left of the photo).  Place these right sides together taking care that the dark brown strip runs across the bottom.  Mark a line along the diagonal from bottom right to top left.

Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two triangles each with a seam along the base.  Each one will open up to form a half square triangle as shown on the right of the photo.  As you can see, these are totally different from each other.  The one on the bottom with a dark brown strip across the bottom is the one you need.  Unfortunately the one above it with a corner of dark brown cannot be used in this project.  I have put mine to one side and will probably use them to make a bag of some sort.

Sashing strips

Sashing strips

Make the sashing strips

Sew together the 3.1/2″ and 1.1/2″ strips of light brown and dark brown along the length.  Cut this panel into 9.1/2″ strips.

Each sashing strip contains two half square triangles and three 9.1/2″ light/dark brown strips.  That means the row starts and ends with a strip and there is a half square triangle between each pair of strips.

Add squares at each end

Add squares at each end

Here I have a confession:  I had a brain freeze and completely forgot that I would need a 3.1/2″ medium brown square at each end.  I had already taken the photos so I have no option but to describe these strips as I actually made them.  So now add a 3.1/2″ medium brown square at each end of the strip.

One thing to be careful with:  it is important for the dark brown strip to be even across the width of the quilt.  When sewing the sections together across the row, match the dark brown lines before you sew.  Then if there is a slight mis match in the sizes of the pieces you can trim across the bottom of the row.  Although I am sure that your piecing is far more accurate than mine so you probably won’t need to do any trimming!

You need to make four of these sashing strips.

Add the top sashing

Add the top sashing

Assemble the attic windows quilt

Sew the 39.1/2″ medium brown strip to the top of the first row.

Add sashing between the rows

Add sashing between the rows

Now sew a sashing strip to the bottom of the first row.  Sew the second row of blocks to the bottom of the sashing strip.  Continue down the rows, adding sashing strips between each pair of rows.  Take care to match each half square triangle with the upright medium brown sashing strip above and below it.

Red border for the quilt

Red border for the quilt

Add the attic windows quilt border

I have introduced another fabric altogether for the border.  It’s a red metallic floral fabric which I thought would frame the quilt nicely.  I’ve cut 3.1/2″ strips.  You’ll need two lengths of 39.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 57.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the attic windows quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/NKWPN_P80zQ

Botanical Gardens Tenerife

Botanical Gardens Tenerife

Last week I managed to sort out my photos of the Botanical Gardens in Tenerife.  To see my photos click on botanical gardens or click on the photo.

Rolling star quilt pattern

Rolling star quilt pattern

Two weeks ago I asked for name suggestions for the Rolling Star quilt.  You sent me a wonderful variety of names – all far more imaginative than the name that I had used.  Many, many thanks to everyone who commented on the website or emailed me with suggestions.

The name that I have chosen from these suggestions is CRANBERRY SKY.  Isn’t that a wonderful, evocative name?  Thank you Betty for the suggestion.  I will be emailing you for your postal address so that I can send you a pack of fat quarters.

 

 

Rolling Star Quilt Pattern -My Variation

Rolling star quilt

Rolling star quilt

I had the Rolling Star quilt block in mind when I began this quilt design, but then I changed it so much that it’s probably no longer correct to call it a rolling star.  Do tell me if you can think of a better name!  I’m really pleased with the design – lots of secondary patterns to grab your attention when you look at it.  The quilt measures 48″ square and I have used four 20″ finished size blocks.

For the quilt I used 1/2 yard each of gold and white, 3/4 yard of brown, 1 yard of blue and 1.1/4 yards of red fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the rolling star quilt

4.1/2″ squares:  four red

4.7/8″ squares:  sixteen each in blue and red, six each in red and gold, two each in red and white

2.1/2″ by 4.1/2″ rectangles:  thirty two brown

2.1/2″ squares:  sixteen white, sixteen gold

2.7/8″ squares:  sixteen each brown and white, sixteen each in brown and gold, sixteen each in red and white

For the borders you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric in both blue and red.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Use both the 2.7/8″ and the 4.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangles which are now either 2.1/2″ or 4.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners on each square where the fabric sticks out.  Sorry – there are quite a lot of half square triangles in this pattern!

Central star

Central star

Make the red star

The star in the middle of each block is a simple eight pointed star.  First place a 4.1/2″ red square in the middle. Then place a pair of red/white half square triangles on each edge of the red square.  Lay these so that the two white triangles are side by side and together they form a larger white triangle pointing towards the middle.  Now add a 2.1/2″ white square in each corner.

For this block I think that it’s more simple to sew sections together as you go rather than laying out the entire block and then sewing the pieces together.  So begin by sewing the pairs of half squares triangles together.  Sew one pair to the top of the red square and another to the bottom of the square.  Now sew the white squares to the other two pairs of half square triangles to make two columns.  Sew one to each side of the block.  This section now measures 8.1/2″ square.

First frame

First frame

Add the first frame

The next frame is mostly brown and gold.  Place a pair of brown/white half square triangles in the middle of each edge.  Lay them so that the two white triangles form a larger white triangle pointing away from the middle.  You’ll see that they now form white diamonds with the larger white triangles in the red star block.

Add a brown/gold half square triangle on each side of the brown/white ones – that’s two on each edge.  Make sure that the brown triangles are together so that they form a short stripe around the white large triangles.  Add a gold 2.1/2″ square in each corner.  Note that the corners are now large gold triangles – that’s another way to check that you have all the triangles correctly placed.

Sew together the four half square triangles at the top and sew them to the central section.  Repeat with the bottom four half square triangles.  Sew the patchwork pieces down the sides into two columns and sew one to each side of the block.  At this stage the block measures 12.1/2″ square.

Final frame

Final frame

The final frame

For this final frame I have increased the size of the squares to give 4″ finished size patches.  Place a pair of blue/red half square triangles in the middle of each edge.  Lay them so that the blue triangles lie together, forming a larger blue triangle pointing away from the middle.  Place a 2.1/2″ brown rectangle on either side of the half square triangles.

In three corners add a red/gold half square triangle with the gold on the outside, forming the corner of the block.  For the fourth corner use a red/white half square triangle.  As before, sew together the two half square triangles and the rectangles at the top and bottom and sew them to the central block.  Sew the squares on the sides together to form two columns and sew one column to each side of the block.

That completes the rolling star quilt block.  It measures 20.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

Keep the white triangles in the middle

Keep the white triangles in the middle

Assemble the rolling star quilt

Sew the blocks together in two pairs and sew the pairs to each other.  Rotate the blocks so that the white triangle is always in the middle.  These together form the white diamond in the middle of the quilt.

I have added two borders, both made with 2.1/2″ strips of fabric.

Add the borders

Add the borders

For the first border use blue fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 44.1/2″ for the sides.  Make the second, red border with two lengths of 44.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the rolling star quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/KIhNpvjkfzw

As a final thought I would love to hear your ideas for a better name for this quilt.  Let me know in the Comments section below.  There’s a pack of four fat quarters for the name that I like best from among your suggestions.

Fabric shop in Tenerife

Fabric shop in Tenerife

The weather seems to have turned very cold for those of us in the northern hemisphere so I am doubly glad that I spent nearly a week enjoying some winter sun in the Canary Islands.  To see my photos click here or click on the photo.  As you can see, I managed to find a wonderful fabric shop which sold every type of fabric imaginable!

 

Valentine Heart Lavender Cushion

Heart lavender cushion

Heart lavender cushion

This lavender heart cushion is perfect to celebrate Valentine’s Day.  I still have some dried lavender left from last summer so I thought that I would make a small cushion and fill it with a lavender mix.  Then I decided to put a ruffle on the cushion as well just to frame it.

Fabric requirements

Pink and red fabric

Pink and red fabric

8″ squares: two red

5″ strip of pink fabric cut across the width of fabric

Interfacing:  two 5″ squares

Small amount of lavender and toy stuffing




 

Make the cushion front and back

Satin stitch the hearts in place

Satin stitch the hearts in place

Cut two 5″ squares from the ends of the pink strip and back them with interfacing.  Draw a heart on the interfacing, cut the hearts out and place one right side up on the right side of each red square.  Zigzag around the edges of the hearts to secure them and then satin stitch all round.

Make the ruffle strip

Fold the pink strip in half

Fold the pink strip in half

Take the rest of the 5″ pink strip and cut down the middle to make two 2.1/2″ strips.  Sew these together at both ends to make a loop.  For a larger ruffle use the full 2.1/2″ strip – you will have to zigzag the outer edge at the end.  For a smaller ruffle that will be ready finished, fold in half along the length.  The fold will then be on the outside of the ruffle so you won’t need to do any more finishing.

 

 

Mark the quarters of the ruffle strip

Mark the quarters of the ruffle strip

 

Use pins to mark the quarters of the ruffle strip.  This way you can keep the gathering more even by having just one quarter of the ruffle strip going along each edge of the square.

 

 

 

Pull the thread to gather the strip

Pull the thread to gather the strip

 

Using the longest stitch length on your machine sew along the edge which is two raw edgese leaving a gap of a couple of inches between the beginning and end of the stitching.  Take hold of one of the threads from this line of stitching and gently push the fabric away from the end to start to gather the fabric into a ruffle.

 

Ease the ruffle round the corners

Ease the ruffle round the corners

,Pin the ruffle all the way roundPin the ruffle all the way round

Gather from both ends of the stitching.  The ruffle measures roughly 32″.  Pin the ruffle all round the edge of one of the cushion panels, easing it around the corners.  The gathered end should be in line with the edge of the cushion panel, the fold towards the middle.

 

Finish the lavender heart cushion

Turn right side out through the gap

Turn right side out through the gap

Lay the second red square on top of the ruffle with right side down.  Pin well and sew round three and a half edges of the square, leaving a gap through which to turn the cushion right side out.  Check that you have caught all layers of fabric in the stitching and then turn right side out.  Gently push the corners out, fill with a mixture of dried lavender and toy stuffing and stitch the gap closed.

This lavender heart cushion doesn’t take long to make and I’m quite pleased with how it turned out.

Here’s the video:

 

Scottie Dog Quilt Pattern With Sashing

Scottie Dog Quilt

Scottie Dog Quilt

For this Scottie Dog quilt I wanted to design a really simple quilt block in order to showcase the sashing with stars that I have used.  The Scottie dog is obviously based on a dog!  The sashing is based on a floor tile design that I have adapted and simplified.  Thanks, Carol, for sending me the photo.  The quilt measures 57″ square, using four 24″ blocks finished size.

You can buy the kit for this quilt at this week’s special offer.

Original floor tile design

Original floor tile design

I needed 1.3/4 yards of the background fabric, 1 yard of the blue dog fabric, 3/4 yard of the dark brown for the sashing, together with 1/8 yard each of dark blue and white with 1/4 yard of the medium blue script fabric for the cornerstones.

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Cutting requirements for the Scottie Dog quilt

3.1/2″ strips in the following lengths:

24.1/2″ strips:  four light brown

18.1/2″  strips:  twelve dark brown for sashing

12.1/2″ strips:  eight light brown

9.1/2″ four light brown, eight blue dog fabic

15.1/2″ strips:  eight light brown, eight blue dog fabric

6.1/2″ strips:  twenty light brown, eight blue dog fabric

3.1/2″ squares:  twenty eight light brown, nine medium blue (cornerstones), eight blue dog fabric

4.1/4″ squares:  twelve white, six dark brown, six dark blue

Dog facing right layout

Dog facing right layout

Make the dog facing right

Lay the strips out in eight rows.  All the strips are 3.1/2″ wide so I’ll just list what’s needed in each row:

First row and row 8: one  24.1/2″ light brown strip

Row 2:  12.1/2″ light brown, blue square, 9.1/2″ light brown

Row 3:  12.1/2″ light brown, 9.1/2″ blue, light brown square

Fourth row:  brown square, blue square, 6.1/2″ brown, 9.1/2″ blue, brown square

Rows 5 and 6:  brown square, 15.1/2″ blue, 6.1/2″ brown

Row 7:  brown square, 6.1/2″ blue, brown square, 6.1/2″ blue, 6.1/2″ brown.

Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  This now measures 24.1/2″ square and you need to make two of these.

Dog facing left

Dog facing left

Make the dog facing left

This is very similar to the first block, but the dog is facing the other way.

First row and row 8:  24.1/2″ brown strip.

Row 2:  9.1,2″ brown, blue square, 12.1/2″ brown

Row 3:  brown square, 9.1/2″ blue, 12.1/2″ brown

Fourth row:  brown square, 9.1/2″ blue, 6.1/2″ brown, blue square, brown square.

Rows 5 and 6:  6.1/2″ brown, 15.1/2″ blue, brown square

Row 7:  6.1/2″ brown, 6.1/2″ blue, brown square, 6.1/2″ blue, brown square.

Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block now measures 24.1/2″ square and you need to make two of this version also.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make quarter square triangles

This is just a case of making half square triangles twice – honestly it’s not too difficult.  Place a white 4.1/4″ square with either a dark blue or a dark brown square, right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a seam 1/4″ either side of the marked line.

Cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.7/8″ square.

Make quarter square triangles

Make quarter square triangles

Now make further units as above, but starting this time with the half square triangles that you have just made.

Begin with one blue/white and one brown/white half square triangle.  Place them right sides together, making sure that the blue triangle on the top layer lies against the white on the bottom layer while the white on the top layer lies against the brown triangle on the bottom layer.  The seams of both of them run from bottom left to top right.

Draw a line along the diagonal that crosses the existing seam line, so going from bottom right to top left in my photo.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces a quarter square triangle unit which measures 3.1/2″ square.  Check that the two white triangles are opposite each other and the blue and brown triangles are opposite each other.

Sashing strips

Sashing strips

Make the sashing strips

Take an 18.1/2″ strip of dark brown fabric and place a quarter square triangle at each end.  Lay them so that the brown triangle lies against the brown strip.  It almost looks like a Christmas cracker now.

Make two of these strips and place one between each pair of Scottie dog quilt blocks.  This joins the pairs of blocks.  I have placed mine so that there is one right facing and one left facing dog in each pair.  They are looking at each other across the sashing strip.

Sashing strip across the middle

Sashing strip across the middle

Now you need sashing strips to lie across the quilt – three of them so that you can have one at the top of the quilt, one joining the two pairs of blocks across the middle of the quilt, and one at the bottom of the quilt.

For each strip make up two strips as above – an 18.1/2″ dark brown strip with a quarter square triangle at each end.  Join these two sections together with a medium blue 3.1/2″ square.  So in each row you have two brown strips, four quarter square triangles and one cornerstone (that’s the medium blue square).  Make three of these strips and sew one to the top of the quilt, one in the middle to join the two pairs of blocks together and one at the bottom of the quilt.

Side strips

Side strips

Sash the sides of the quilt

You now just need two strips for the sides of the quilt.  For each strip make up an 18.1/2″ dark brown strip with a quarter square triangle at each end as before.  Now place a 3.1/2″ medium blue square (cornerstone) at each end of the overall strip and in the middle.

Middle section

Middle section

In case that sounds confusing, the side strip should contain:  cornerstone, quarter square triangle, dark brown strip, quarter square triangle, cornerstone, quarter square triangle, dark brown strip, quarter square triangle, cornerstone.

Sew one of these strips to each side of the quilt.  Confession time:  my seams were obviously not as accurate as they should have been.  I found that my sashing didn’t always match the quilt top.  In one place I ended up trimming the quarter square triangle to make it fit.  I realise now that a far better option would have been to fold and stitch a small pleat in the dark brown fabric strip.  That way I could keep the stars intact.  I’m sure that your stitching is far more accurate than mine, but I just thought that I’d mention it as a way of correcting differences in length.

That completes the Scottie dog quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/eM5yXRoPM3A

Ashby de la Zouch castle

Ashby de la Zouch castle

Last week I mentioned that I was visiting a friend for lunch.  On the way up I stopped in Ashby de la Zouch – the name has always fascinated me!  To see my photos, click here or click on the photo.

Pinwheel Diamond Quilt – Free Pattern

Pinwheel diamond quilt

Pinwheel diamond quilt

My pinwheel diamond quilt pattern is made with just two simple blocks – and I think it’s really attractive.  The pinwheels are placed in the middle with a circle of gold diamonds around them.

The quilt measures 58″ by 70″, made with twenty 12″ blocks sewn together in five rows of four.  I have used 2 yards of gold fabric with 1.3/4 yards each of purple and lilac.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.

But before I begin the pattern I just want to wish you a very happy, healthy and prosperous 2019.  It’s rather exciting having a whole new year ahead of us!




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the pinwheel diamond quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  forty lilac, forty gold

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty each in purple and gold, twenty each in purple and lilac

6.7/8″ squares  twenty lilac, twenty gold

For the borders you will need to cut six 1.1/2″ strips of gold and thirteen 2.1/2″ of purple across the width of fabric.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Make half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a purple square with either a lilac or a gold square.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  Press the seam allowances towards the purple and trim the two corners where the triangle tips stick out.  These are now 3.1/2″ squares.  You need to make them in purple/gold and in purple/lilac.

Pinwheel quilt block layout

Pinwheel quilt block layout

Make the pinwheel block

This block has a very simple four patch layout.  Begin with four purple/lilac half square triangle units in the middle.  Place these so that they form a pinwheel, with the lilac and purple alternating.

Now place a purple/gold half square triangle outside each purple triangle of the central pinwheel.  Lay these so that the outer purple triangle and the inner purple triangle together form a diamond shape, extending the pinwheel.

Place a lilac square in each corner and a gold square in the remaining four spaces.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the pinwheel block.  It measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make ten of them.

Alternate block layout

Alternate block layout

Make the alternate block

Use the 6.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles in exactly the same way as you made the smaller ones above.

Lay the half square triangles in fours.  Place them so that the triangles form larger triangles – two gold triangles opposite each other and two lilac triangles opposite each other.

Sew the pieces together in two pairs and then sew the pairs to each other.  These also measure 12.1/2″ square and you need to make ten of them.

Rows 1 and 5

Rows 1 and 5

Assemble the quilt

Sew the blocks together in five rows of four.  Rows one and five are the same as each other:  a pinwheel at each end with two alternate blocks between them.  Place the alternate blocks so that the gold triangles form diamonds across the rows while lilac triangles point up and down.

Rows 2,3,4

Rows 2,3,4

Rows two to four are also the same as each other.  This time the two pinwheel blocks are in the middle with an alternate block at each end.

Note that this time the gold triangles run up and down while the lilac triangles run from side to side.

At this stage the quilt top measures 48.1/2″ by 60.1/2″.

First border

First border

Add the borders

I’ve used 2.1/2″ purple strips for the first border.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

Second and third borders

Second and third borders

In the second border you need to cut 1.1/2″ strips of gold:  two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 66.1/2″ for the sides.

Finally for the third border use 2.1/2″ strips of purple again:  two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 70.1/2″ for the sides.

The pinwheel diamond quilt top is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/blLul-GZh9g

Owl and Pussycat table runner

owl and Pussycat table runner

No travels this week – I just luxuriated in the festive season.  What I can show you, though, is a table runner that I made using the owl and pussycat templates that I used in the quilt of the same name.  To see it click here or click on the photo.

Owl and Pussycat Table Runner Pattern

Owl and Pussycat table runner

Owl and Pussycat table runner

I thought that the Owl and Pussycat table runner would make a fun addition to any table.  I have used the same templates that I used in the owl and pussycat quilt but sewn in a column and with the addition of two pea green boats in the middle of the table runner.

The table runner measures 18″ wide by 66″ long.  I have used 3/4 yard of sea fabric, 1/2 yard of brown batik, 1/2 yard of green batik, 1/4 yard of sky fabric with just 1/8 yard of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics (with the applique already backed with Mistyfuse) on this link.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the Owl and Pussycat table runner

Brown batik:  four 10″ by 7″  squares backed with Mistyfuse or other fusible interfacing, two 1.1/2″ by 16.1/2″ strips, two 1.1/2″ by 66.1/2″ strips

Green batik:  two 9.1/4″ by 2.1/2″ rectangles, two 12.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips, two 64.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips

White fabric:  one 4.3/4 ” white square

Sky fabric:  two 3.7/8″ squares, two 6.1/2″ by 1.1/2″ strips, two 8.1/2″ by 1.1/2″ strips

Sea fabric:  four 12.1/2″ squares, two 2.7/8″ squares, two 12.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips.

For the cat template click here.

For the owl template click here.  There is a small V in the top of the owl template – ignore this.

Cut the corners of the green rectangles

Cut the corners of the green rectangles

Make the central block

Begin with the two 9.1/4″ rectangles of green batik.  Fold each bottom corner up to the top edge of the rectangle.  Pin and cut along the fold.  Discard the green triangles that you have cut from the rectangles.  Cut the 2.7/8″ sea rectangles in half along one diagonal to create two triangles from each square.  Sew the long edge of these triangles to the cut edges of the green rectangle as shown in the bottom of the photo.

Make the boat sails

Make the boat sails

Now make the diamond in a square for the middle of the block.  This represents the sails of the two boats.  Cut the 3.7/8″ sky squares along one diagonal to make two triangles from each square.  Lay one triangle on each edge of the white square.  Sew the top and bottom triangles to the square, press them open and then sew the remaining two triangles to the square.  Press and trim the middle of each edge where the triangle tips stick out.

Central layout of the block

Central layout of the block

Add a 6.1/2″ by 1.1/2″ sky strip to each side of the diamond in square.  Then add an 8.1/2″ sky strip to the top and bottom.

Sew the strips to the sides of the diamond in square first and then sew all the pieces shown together in one coloumn.  Note that the short edge of the green boat lie along the top and bottom of this section.

Complete layout of the block

Complete layout of the block

Finally add a 12.1/2″ sea strip to each side of the block.  Sew these in place to complete the central block.

Make the applique blocks

Make the applique blocks

Make the applique blocks

Back the brown squares with Mistyfuse or any fusible interfacing.  Draw round the templates and cut two owls and two cats in the brown.  Lay one cat or owl on each 12.1/2″ sea square.  Press to secure the applique to the background.

Sew round the applique shapes to secure them more permanently to the backgrounds.  I used the blanket stitch option on my sewing machine.

Sew the blocks together

Sew the blocks together

Assemble the Owl and Pussycat table runner

Lay all the squares out in the order owl, cat, central block, cat and then owl.    Note that the top owl and cat are placed in the opposite direction to the bottom owl and cat.  Sew them all together in one strip.

First border

First border

Add the borders

For the first border I used 2.1/2″ strips of the green batik fabric.  Sew the 12.1/2″ strips to the top and bottom of the table runner.  Then sew the 64.1/2″ strips to the sides.

Final border

Final border

I had intended that to be the complete table runner but I decided that I needed a darker border to frame the table runner.  For this I used 1.1/2″ strips of brown batik.  Sew the 16.1/2″ strips to the top and bottom.  Finally sew the 66.1/2″ strips to the sides.

That completes the top of the Owl and Pussycat table runner.  It can now be layered, quilted and bound as for any quilt.  You can find details of these stages in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/2qz3r18BldI

Well, that’s my final pattern for 2018.  My warmest wishes to you for a happy and healthy 2019.

Pineapple Quilt Pattern – Courthouse Steps

Pineqpple quilt

Pineqpple quilt

In order to make this Pineapple Quilt I have used all the easy options.  The pineapple sections are folded squares, so minimum sewing.  I have used the courthouse steps quilt block which I always find quicker than making a traditional log cabin quilt adding logs all round the central square.  Altogether I think that the quilt looks complex but is very easy to make.

The quilt measures 50″ square, using four blocks which are 20″ square finished size.  I used 1.1/4 yards of purple fabric, 1.1/4 yards of white and 1.1/2 yards of the leaf fabric.  The leaf fabric actually comes from the Tropicana range and is probably meant to be palm tree fronds.  I felt that they looked sufficiently like pineapple leaves to add to the quilt.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed pineapple quilt block

Completed pineapple quilt block

Cutting requirements for the pineapple quilt

8.1/2″ squares:  four white

3.7/8″ squares:  sixty four purple

2.1/2″ strips cut across the width of fabric:  eighteen in leaf fabric, seven white, five purple

Fold the squares

Fold the squares

Make the central area

Begin with an 8.1/2″ white square.  Fold the purple squares along one diagonal to make a triangle.

One triangle on each corner

One triangle on each corner

Place one triangle on each corner of the white square so that the raw edges are all in line and the folded edge of the triangle lies across the corner.

Pin the triangles in place – just take care that your pins are not along the seam lines.  The two right hand triangles are waiting to be placed.

Sew the first frame

Sew the first frame

Add an 8.1/2″ strip of the leaf fabric to the top and the bottom of the square.  Press with the seam allowances away from the square.

Add triangles to the corners

Add triangles to the corners

Then add a 12.1/2″ strip to either side.  Check that the triangle edges are lying along the edges of the square as you sew – sometimes they can slip out of line while you’re not looking!

Add a purple triangle to each corner of the block and pin in place.

Second frame

Second frame

Add the second frame

For the second frame you will need two lengths of  12.1/2″ for the top and bottom followed by two lengths of 16.1/2″ for the sides.  Pin purple triangles to each corner.

Third frame

Third frame

Add the third frame

The third frame is the final frame.  I had intended to use four frames, but then decided that the block was going to be large enough with just the three frames.

You’ll need two lengths of 16.1/2″ for the top and bottom followed by two lengths of 20.1/2″ for the sides.

Add a purple triangle to each corner.

Sew a white strip between the pairs

Sew a white strip between the pairs

Assemble the pineapple quilt

Sew the blocks together in two pairs with a white strip between each pair.  This strip measures 20.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ in white fabric.

Make the central row

Make the central row

Now make a strip using two 20.1/2″ white strips with a purple square between them.  This makes the central row which will lie between the two pairs of blocks.

Sew the central strip to the top pair of blocks.  I find it safest to pin the row at the central purple square first and then smooth it in each direction.  That way you get a nice clean join in the middle.

Next sew the bottom pair of blocks to the central row.

Add the top sashing

Add the top sashing

Finish the sashing

At the moment the sashing is only between the blocks but not round the outer edge.  Cut two 42.1/2″ lengths of white fabric and sew one to the top and one to the bottom of the quilt.

Add sashing to the sides

Add sashing to the sides

Then cut two 46.1/2″ lengths and sew one to each side of the quilt.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

I have used 2.1/2″ strips of purple fabric to frame the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of 46.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 50.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the pineapple quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/D9tYHQvR8jE

 

Lapworth Museum

Lapworth Museum

Last week I stumbled upon a fascinating museum just up the road from where I live.  It’s called the Lapworth Museum of Geology.  To see my photos click here or click on the photo.

Another busy weekend at the Christmas Craft Fair at the Mac in Cannon Hill Park.  I really will remember to take some photos of my stall this time – I’ve had several requests for photos.  After that I can relax and start to plan my own Christmas.