New York Flooring Quilt Pattern

New York flooring quilt

New York flooring quilt

My New York flooring quilt is based on a design of tiles that I saw in a New York diner.  I have of course changed the design quite a bit, but that was the basis for the design.  There were many, many more quilt inspirations during my American holiday but this is a nice easy pattern to begin with.

Original tile design

Original tile design

I have kept to the original design for the tile block but then I have added a star block in place of the open spaces of white tiles.  I have rotated the blocks so that the medium blue diagonals change direction half way down the quilt.  The same happens with the light blue diagonals so that I have created two intersecting sideways V shapes forming a small diamond in the middle of the quilt.

The quilt measures 58″ by 76″, using 2.1/2 yards of white fabric, 1.1/2 yards of dark blue, 1 yard of medium blue and just 1/2 yard of the light blue fabric.  I have made twelve blocks, all 18″ square finished size.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed tile block

Completed tile block

Cutting requirements for the New York flooring quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  thirty six light blue, thirty six medium blue, twenty four dark blue, seventy two white

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty four medium blue, twenty four white

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  twelve dark blue, twelve medium blue, twenty four white

12.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  twelve white

18.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  twelve white

For the border you will need to cut seven 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue across the width of fabric.

Make a 4 patch unit

Make a 4 patch unit

Make the tile quilt block

Begin with a simple four patch unit using two medium blue and two light blue squares.

Add the next frame

Add the next frame

Now for the next frame add a medium blue square in two corners and a light blue square in the other two corners.  Make sure that you place them so that one diagonal is all medium blue while the other diagonal is all light blue.  Between the corners on the top and bottom rows place a 6.1/2″ dark blue rectangle.

On each side place a dark blue square on each end of the two middle rows.

New York flooring quilt block layout

New York flooring quilt block layout

Complete the layout with two medium blue and two light blue squares in the corners of the final frame.  Between these place a 12.1/2″ white rectangle in the top and bottom rows.  Use four white squares down each side, so that these rows begin and end with a white square.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make six of them.

Half square triangles

Half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

I’ve used a simple star block to replace the open spaces in the original tile design and for this I need half square triangle units.  Use the 3.7/8″ squares.  Place a medium blue and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.

These are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Central section of star block

Central section of star block

Make the star quilt blocks

Begin with two 6.1/2″ medium blue rectangles in the middle.  On each edge of this central square place two half square triangle units.  Make sure that the two white triangles together form a larger white triangle pointing towards the middle of the block.  In each corner place a 6.1/2″ white rectangle.  I know that these stick out beyond the other squares, but it just saves a bit of time when sewing the rows together.

Star quilt block layout

Star quilt block layout

For the final frame, add two white squares to the ends of the central rows, one at each end.  As you can see, this evens up the lengths of the rows.

Finally add an 18.1/2″ white rectangle to the top and the bottom of the block.  Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

The star block now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make six of these as well.

Rows 1 and 2

Rows 1 and 2

Assemble the New York flooring quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of three.  In row one place a tile block at each end with a star block in the middle.  For the second row place a star block at each end with a tile block in the middle.  Note that the medium blue diagonal runs from top left to bottom right in each of the tile blocks.

Rows 3 and 4

Rows 3 and 4

In row three place a star block in the middle with a tile block at each end.  This time place them so that the medium blue diagonal runs from bottom left left to top right.

For row four lay a star block in the middle with a tile block at each end.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the border

Add the border

Add the quilt border

I have used 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 76.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the New York flooring quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Rockefeller square in the rain

Rockefeller square in the rain

As you know by now, I have just returned from a wonderful trip to the USA.  I have pulled together some photos from the New York part of the trip and to see them click here or click on the photo.

I had set the two last patterns to publish automatically while I was away and I gather that the links didn’t work for everyone, so my apologies for that.  As many of you pointed out, I had forgotten to include the fabric requirement for the Columbian  Star quilt – they are 4.3/4 yards of white, 4 yards of purple and 3/4 yard of the floral border fabric.  I have added them to the pattern now and if I can’t get the waterfall video to work I will have to delete it.  Apologies again!

Columbian Star Quilt Pattern

Columbian star quilt

Columbian star quilt

The Columbian Star quilt block is the centrepiece of this quilt pattern.  I have tried to use elements from this block in the surrounding blocks.  The nine blocks are all huge – 30″ square finished size – giving an enormous 94″ square quilt.  This should cover any size of bed comfortably.

I needed 4.3/4 yards of white fabric, 4 yards of purple and 3/4 yard of the floral border fabric.

Completed Columbian star quilt block

Completed Columbian star quilt block

Cutting requirements for the Columbian star quilt

6.1/2″ squares:  four white

12.1/2″ squares:  one purple

3.1/2″ by 12.1/2″ rectangles:  four white

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty white, twenty purple

3.1/2″ squares:  four purple, eight white

15.7/8″ squares:  four purple, four white

15.1/2″ squares:  four purple

8″ squares:  sixteen white

8.3/8″ squares:  sixteen purple, sixteen white

For the border you will need to cut nine 2.1/2″ strips across the width of a contrasting fabric.




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a purple and a white square right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the purple and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

You will also need to make half square triangle units from the 15.7/8″ and 8.3/8″ squares, but for these I have simply cut the squares along one diagonal and then sewn one white and one white purple triangle together along the diagonals.

Top section

Top section

Make the Columbian star quilt block top

I am showing you this layout in three sections for clarity.  Place a 6.1/2″ white square at each end with two half square triangles on two edges of each square.  Lay a 3.1/2″ purple square diagonally in from the corner of each white square.  Between these corner sections place a 12.1/2″ white rectangle at the top with a row of four half square triangles beneath it.  Underneath these place two 3.1/2″ white squares with a pair of half square triangles betwen them.  Check the photo carefully to be sure which way to place all the half square triangles.  In the middle they need to form a V shape pointing downwards.

Partially sewn section

Partially sewn section

Sew the squares together across the two rows between the white squares.  Then sew the two rows to each other.  Now add the large white square on each end.  Sew all the squares together across the third row and add this to the bottom of the section.

Central section

Central section

Middle section of block

Begin this section with the 12.1/2″ purple square.  For the column on either side of the square place four half square triangles.  Lay them so that the purple triangles start to form a V shape pointing towards the central square.  For the next column out you need two white squares with a half square triangle at each end of the column.  For the third column out place one 12.1/2″ white rectangle.  Sew the patchwork pieces together down each column, sew the columns to each other and then sew these sections to the central square.

Bottom third of the block

Bottom third of the block

Lower third of the block

The bottom section of the block is more or less the same as the top section, just the other way up.  The first row of this section contains four half square triangles in the middle with a purple square outside of these and then two more half square triangle units.

Make the second row with two white squares in the middle and a pair of half square triangles on either side of the squares.  Use the final 12.1/2″ white rectangle with a half square triangle at each end for the third row.  Add a 6.1/2″ white square at each end of these last two rows.  Once again sew the small squares together across each row, sew the bottom two rows to each other and then sew them to the white squares at the ends.  Sew this section to the first row.

Finally sew all three sections together to complete the Columbian star quilt block.  This measures 30.1/2″ square at this stage and you just need to make one.

Corner block layout

Corner block layout

Make the corner blocks

For the corner blocks I have used the rosebud shape that appears in the Columbian star quilt block – but made it a lot bigger.  Make half square triangles using the 15.7/8″ squares.  Cut the squares in half along one diagonal and then sew a purple triangle to a white triangle.

Place a white and a purple 15.1/2″ square diagonally opposite each other.  Lay two half square triangles diagonally opposite each other so that the purple triangles form a butterfly shape.

Sew the pieces together in pairs and then sew the pairs to each other.  This block now measures 30.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Third block layout

Third block layout

Make the third block

In the third block I have taken the V shapes in the Columbian star quilt block and again supersized them.  Make half square triangles using the 8.3/8″ squares.  In the first row use four half square triangles placed so that the white triangles form a larger triangle pointing downwards and the purple triangles begin to form the stripes of the V shape.  In the second row place two half square triangles in the middle with an 8″ white square at each end.  Repeat these two rows to form the third and fourth rows.

Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block now measures 30.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In row one place a rosebud block at each end with a V block in the middle.  Place the rosebuds so that they point towards the corner, with the white square forming the corner of the quilt.

Row two

Row two

For the second row place the Columbian star quilt block in the middle with a V block at each end.  Place these so that the V shapes are horizontal, pointing towards the middle.

Row three

Row three

In row three place a rosebud block at each end with a V block in the middle.  The V shapes point upwards towards the middle while the rosebuds point towards the corners.

Add the top border

Add the top border

Finishing the quilt

Normally now I would add the border, sew the blocks to each other and then sew the three rows to each other.  However this quilt is so large that I am going to sew it together using quilt as you go in rows.  I have added the border strip of a contrasting fabric to the top of the first row and the bottom of the third row.  Then I added wadding and backing fabric to each row, making sure that I left a good 3″ of these at either side.  Now I am going to quilt each row separately, sew the rows to each other using qayg and then add the side borders as a final step.  I haven’t had time to do these steps yet, but I will show you the photos when I have completed the quilt.

Here’s the video:

 

Swallow Falls

Swallow Falls

Last week I spent a few days in North Wales.  On the way back I stopped to see the Swallow Falls which I have always intended to visit.  The falls are just outside a small town called Betws-y-Coed.  They were absolutely stunning, but it was almost impossible to take a photo that did them justice.  They weren’t very wide but seemed to go on in stages for a great distance.  My photos looked terribly flat and didn’t show the force of the falls so I put together a short video which gives more of a feeling of the water thundering down.

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Butterfly Star Quilt – Free Pattern

Butterfly star quilt

Butterfly star quilt

For the Butterfly Star quilt my aim was to find a design where the butterflies and stars appeared to be floating randomly within the quilt.  In order to achieve this I made the butterflies and stars off centre so that when I rotated the blocks they would look like random placements rather than straight lines.  Both of the blocks are very easy to make so this quilt goes together really quickly.  I have used sixteen blocks which are all 12″ square finished size.  The quilt measures 52″ square, using 2 yards of the blue sky background fabric, 3/4 yard of green star and 1/2 yard of lilac floral fabric.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the butterfly star quilt

4.1/2″ squares:  sixteen blue

4.7/8″ squares:  eight blue, eight lilac

8.1/2″ by 4.1/2″ rectangles:  eight blue

12.1/2″ by 4.1/2″ rectangles:  eight blue

3.1/2″ squares:  eight green, thirty two blue

3.7/8″ squares:  sixteen green, sixteen blue

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  eight blue

12.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  eight blue

For the border you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ lengths of green star fabric across the width of fabric.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units.

Use both the 3.7/8″ and 4.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place either a lilac or a green square right sides together with a blue square and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are either 3.1/2″ or 4.1/2″ square.   Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where the triangle tips stick out.

Butterfly block layout

Butterfly block layout

Make the butterfly quilt block

Lay two lilac/blue half square triangles and two 4.1/2″ blue squares diagonally opposite each other.

Lay an 8.1/2″ blue rectangle down the right hand side of the four patch unit, with a 12.1/2″ blue rectangle across the bottom.  Sew the squares and half square triangles together in pairs and then sew the pairs together.  Add the rectangle to the right and then sew the 12.1/2″ rectangle across the bottom.

The block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make eight of them.

Star block layout

Star block layout

Make the star quilt block

Lay the nine pieces of the star in three rows of three.  Place a green star square in the middle with a green/blue half square triangle on each edge of the central square.  Lay these so that the triangles form the points of the star.  Place a 3.1/2″ blue square in each corner of this nine patch section.

Sew the three squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  Now add a 3.1/2″ by 9.1/2″ blue rectangle on the right hand side and then a 3.1/2″ by 12.1/2″ blue rectangle across the bottom of the block.

At this stage the block also measures 12.1/2″ square and you also need to make eight of them.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the butterfly star quilt

There are many different ways of arranging these blocks.  I have chosen to alternate the butterflies and stars across the rows and down the columns, rotating them to give the random placement effect.

In row one begin with a butterfly placed top right of the block.  Follow this with a star placed bottom right, a butterfly placed top left and a star also placed top left.

For row two you need to place a star top left, a butterfly placed top right, a star placed bottom right and a butterfly placed top right.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

In row three I have begun with a butterfly placed top right, a star placed top right, followed by a butterfly placed bottom right and a star placed placed top left.

For row four begin with a star placed top left followed by a butterfly placed bottom left, a star placed top left and a butterfly placed top right.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Green stars for the border

Green stars for the border

Add the quilt border

I have used 2.1/2″ strips of the green star fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom with a 52.1/2″ length for each side.

That completes the butterfly star quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginning quilter section.

Here’s the video:

 

 

Himley Hall

Himley Hall

And I have also been exploring this week.  I visited (accidentally) Himley Hall and spent a wonderful morning touring the exhibitions and the parkland.  You can read about it here or just click on the photo.

Pieced Sashing Star Quilt Pattern

Pieced sashing star quilt

Pieced sashing star quilt

For my pieced sashing star quilt pattern I have used a very simple star block and pieced the sashing instead of using just one fabric in strips.  I think that it has added quite a lot to the design and I’m really pleased with the extra shapes that show up within the quilt.  It makes the quilt pattern look quite complicated when in fact it’s very easy to make.

The quilt is rectangular, measuring 48″ by 62″.  I have used twelve 12″ finished size blocks and I needed 1 yard each of the green and lilac together with 1.1/2 yards of dark blue. They are all batik fabrics.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the pieced sashing star quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  forty eight dark blue, twenty lilac

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  twenty four green

3.7/8″ squares:   forty eight green, forty eight dark blue

For the sashing you will need four 3.1/2″ lilac strips cut across the width of fabric, two 6.1/2″ dark blue strips cut across the width of fabric, and twenty 2.1/2″ lilac squares.

To make the border you will need six 2.1/2″ lilac strips cut across the width of fabric.

Making half square triangles

Making half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use all the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a green and a dark blue square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.

Press the seam allowances towards the dark blue and trim the two corners where the triangle tips stick out.

Star quilt block layout

Star quilt block layout

Make the star blocks

Lay the patchwork pieces out in four rows.

Begin with two green rectangles in the middle.  Together these form a 6″ square finished size.  You could also use one 6.1/2″ square or four 3.1/2″ squares for this part.  On each edge of this central area place two half square triangle units.  Lay these so that the two dark blue triangles together form a larger triangle pointing towards the middle.  Add a dark blue square in each corner.

Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the star block.  This measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make twelve of them.

Cut the sashing strips

Cut the sashing strips

Make the sashing strips

For the sashing I have made 2.1/2″ pieced strips.  Use strip piecing for the most simple way to make these sections.  Sew together a 3.1/2″ lilac strip on either side of a 6.1/2″ dark blue strip.  Cut this panel at 2.1/2″ intervals to make rectangles 2.1/2″ wide by 12.1/2″ long.

You need to make two of these panels so that you can cut thirty one sashing strips.

Sew the rows together

Sew the rows together

Assemble the pieced sashing star quilt

Lay the blocks in four rows of three blocks each.  Add sashing strips at the beginning and end of each row as well as between the blocks.  That means that you need three blocks and four sashing strips for each row.  Sew the sections together across each row.

Add sashing strips between the rows

Add sashing strips between the rows

You need a row of sashing strips between each row of quilt blocks.  Make these strips using three sashing strips and four cornerstones (2.1/2″ lilac squares), so that you have a lilac square at each end as well as one between each pair of strips.

Make five of these sashing strips.  Sew one between each row of star quilt blocks as well as one at the top and the bottom of the quilt.

Lilac quilt border

Lilac quilt border

Add the quilt border

I’ve added a simple border using 2.1/2″ lilac strips.  You need two lengths of 44.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt with two lengths of 62.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the pieced sashing star quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

 

Alcester high street

Alcester high street

Last week I mentioned that I was visiting Alcester, a small town not far from here.  The town has a really pretty high street and I loved the church.

Inside Alcester church

Inside Alcester church

The inside of the church was beautiful.  Imagine having to paint between those beams in the ceiling!

Anvil Steps Quilt – Free Pattern

Anvil steps quilt

Anvil steps quilt

I’ve made the Anvil Steps quilt using three different blocks within the quilt and a different block for the border.  It’s the border that I’m most pleased with – something completely different for you to try.  The quilt measures 58″ square and I’ve used 1.3/4 yards of white, 1.1/4 yards of red, 1 yard of light blue and 1//2 yard of dark blue fabrics.   The blocks within the quilt are 12″ square finished size while the border blocks are 9″ square finished size.

You can buy the fabrics for this quilt at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the anvil steps quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  twenty dark blue, thirty six white, sixteen light blue

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty dark blue, thirty six white, sixteen light blue

2.3/4″ squares:  eight light blue, eighty white – these can be made with strip piecing

5.3/8″ squares:  twenty red, twenty white

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ red strips across the width of fabric.

Create half square triangle units

Create half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use both the 3.7/8″ squares and the 5.3/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in two different sizes.  Place a coloured square right sides together with a white square and mark a line along the diagonal.

Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangles.  Press the seam allowances away from the white and clip the two corners where fabric sticks out.

The blue and white squares are now 3.1/2″ square while the red and white squares are now 5″ square.

Anvil quilt block layout

Anvil quilt block layout

Make the anvil quilt block

I began this quilt with the idea of the anvil quilt block because it’s a simple four patch block that goes together really quickly.  Lay the blocks out in four rows of four.  There’s a white square in each corner and four dark blue squares in the middle.  On each edge of the central four patch place a pair of dark blue/white half square triangles.  Place these so that so that the dark blue triangles form a butterfly shape across two corners.  On the other two corners, the white triangles together with the white corner square form a larger white triangle.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of these.

Alternate block layout

Alternate block layout

Make the alternate block

For the alternate block I wanted a block that was similar to the anvil block but had more of a vertical shape rather than a diagonal shape.  So I played around with the same squares that make up the anvil block and came up with this alternate block.

Lay the squares out in four rows of four.  You still have the white squares in the corners and the four blue squares in the middle.  This time the half square triangles on the edges are placed differently.  On two edges the light blue triangles together form a larger light blue triangle pointing away from the middle.  For the other two edges, the white triangles together form a larger white triangle pointing towards the middle.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block now measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four in light blue and one in dark blue.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the anvil steps quilt

Lay the blocks out in three rows of three.  Make row one with an anvil block at each end and a light blue alternate block in the middle.  Place the anvil blocks so that the diagonal lines point towards the middle.  Place the alternate block so that the pointy bits point to either side.

Second row

Second row

Make row two with a light blue alternate block at each end and a dark blue alternate block in the middle.  Place all three blocks so that the pointy bits point up and down.

Row three

Row three

Row three is similar to row one with an anvil block at each end and an alternate block in the middle.  This time the diagonal shape of the anvil block is pointing outwards.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete this section of the anvil steps quilt.

Strip piecing

Strip piecing

Make the border blocks

I’ve used a smaller block for the border. In order to make the four patch units in this block you need to sew together 2.3/4″ strips of light blue and white.  Cut these panels at 2.3/4″ intervals to make rectangles 2.3/4″ by 5″.

Border block layout

Border block layout

Lay four of the rectangles out as shown with the red/white half square triangles.  The red triangles form two corners of the block.  Place four of the light blue/white rectangles so that the light blue squares run along the diagonal.

Sew the rectangles together in pairs to make four patch units.  Then sew one four patch unit to each half square triangle.  Finally sew the two halves of the block together.  The border block measures 9.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make twenty of them.

Stepped quilt border

Stepped quilt border

Add the first quilt border

You need to make two strips of four blocks for the top and bottom of the quilt.  Rotate these so that the light blue squares form two peaks across the row.  The red triangles will then form one larger red triangle in the middle pointing down and one larger red triangles each side pointing up.  The strip for the bottom is the same but with the blue squares forming two V shapes.

Add the sides

Add the sides

That leaves twelve border blocks for the sides – two strips of six blocks each.  Lay the first two blocks so that the blue squares follow the same diagonal as the last block in the top row.  That means that around the top right hand corner you have three blocks with the blue squares running from top left to bottom right.  Then add two blocks where they form a V against the side of the quilt top.  Finally place the last two blocks so that the blue squares follow the same diagonal as the last block in the bottom row.

Add the final border

Add the final border

Add the final border

Finally I have used 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric for the outer border.  You’ll need two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 58.1/2″ for the sides.  That completes the Anvil Steps quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

What are these used for?

What are these used for?

I have a favour to ask – can you identify what these scissors are used for?  They were in a box of scissors that my cousin gave me a few weeks ago and I’m curious to know what they are.  The top one only has one circle for a finger and the bottom one has a square in the middle – most odd.

Since writing this, I have had many suggestions that the top pair are thread snips and the bottom pair are buttonhole scissors.  I have also been sent this wonderfull informing link on how to use buttonhole scissors:

https://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Use-Buttonhole-Scissors-/10000000205702342/g.html

Back view of Coughton Court

Back view of Coughton Court

My travels this week took me to Coughton Court – another National Trust property that is a delight to visit.  You can see more photos by clicking here or you can click on the photo.

Paper Pinwheel Quilt – Free Pattern

Paper pinwheel quilt

Paper pinwheel quilt

The Paper Pinwheel quilt is made using two versions of the block of the same name.  It was the name of the block that attracted me – the design looks like those paper whirligig things that I can remember from my childhood.  The quilt measures 54″ square and I have used sixteen blocks which are all 12″ square finished size.  I needed 1 yard each of light blue, cream and red fabrics, together with 3/4 yard of red fabric.  The block is a simple four patch and I have used red in the middle and on the border to provide more interest to the quilt.

You can buy the fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the paper pinwheel quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  four red, sixty light blue, sixty four dark blue, sixty four cream

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty two light blue, thirty two cream

For the border you will need to cut five 3.1/2″ strips of red across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a light blue and a cream square with right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  These are now 3.1/2″ square and you need to trim the two corners where the triangle tips stick out.

Paper pinwheel quilt block layout

Paper pinwheel quilt block layout

Make the basic paper pinwheel quilt block

Lay the squares out in four rows of four.  Begin with four cream squares in the middle.  On each edge of this central section place a half square triangle and a dark blue square.  If you follow the edges of the block in a clockwise direction you’ll see that they always follow the same order – the half square triangle first and then the dark blue square.

In each corner place a light blue square.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  It measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make twelve of them.

Alternate quilt block layout

Alternate quilt block layout

Make the alternate block

The alternate block is just as simple as the first one.  All I have done is swap one corner square from light blue to red.

This block also measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  Place four basic blocks in a row for rows one and four.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

Use the alternate blocks in rows two and three.  Make row two with a basic block at each end and two alternate blocks in the middle.  Place these so that the red squares are together and at the bottom of the row.

For row three you need a basic block at each end and two alternate blocks in the middle.  This time place them so that the red squares are together and at the top of the row.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Red for the border

Red for the border

Add the quilt border

I have used 3.1/2″ strips of red for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the paper pinwheel quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

I want to apologise to all those of you who have tried to email me or leave comments on the website.  I have upgraded the website so that it has security clearance – the beginning of the address is now https rather than just http.  However this seems to have meant that a lot of my links don’t work – even though I was told that it was a really simple operation!  Please believe me – I am not ignoring your comments and emails – I’m just not receiving them.  I have spent many hours this week on the phone with technical support teams and if it hasn’t been fixed when you see this quilt pattern I sincerely hope that it will be sorted out really soon.

In the meantime I hope you have a wonderful Easter weekend.

Four Corners Star Quilt Pattern

Four corners star quilt

Four corners star quilt

I’ve used three different blocks to create the Four Corners star quilt pattern.  The central block contains a star and then I have created a second star around it.  The quilt measures 60″ square, using 1.1/2 yards each of light blue and white with 2.1/4 yards of dark blue and 3/4 yard of yellow fabric.  I have made nine blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.

The central block is known as the four corners quilt block – I didn’t give the quilt its name based on the fact that it has four corners!  The blocks are all large which means that it is a very simple and quick quilt to make.




Completed four corners quilt block

Completed four corners quilt block

Cutting requirements for the four corners star quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  four dark blue, four yellow

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  six dark blue

3.7/8″ squares:  four each in yellow and white, four each in dark blue and white

9.1/2″ by 18.1/2″ rectangles:  four light blue

9.7/8″ squares:  four yellow, four white

18.7/8″ squares:  two light blue, two white

For the border you will need to cut six 3.1/2″ strips of dark blue across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ and the 9.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now either 3.1/2″ or 9.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

First stage of layout

First stage of layout

Four corners quilt block

I am showing the layout in two stages for the sake of clarity. Lay two blue rectangles in the middle.  Place a pair of small yellow/white half square triangles on each edge of this central area.  Lay these so that the two yellow triangles together form a larger yellow triangle pointing away from the middle.  Place a yellow square in each corner of this section.

Four corners quilt block layout

Four corners quilt block layout

Now add the outer frame of this block.  Place a blue rectangle in each corner.  Between these place a pair of dark blue/white half square triangles in the middle of each edge.  Note that the two blue triangles together form a larger dark blue triangle pointing towards the middle.  In rows two and five place a dark blue square at each end.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

The block measures 18.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make one only.

Second block layout

Second block layout

Make the second block

This is a very simple block.  Place two large yellow/white half square triangles so that the white triangles lie together to form a larger white triangle pointing down.

Above these place a light blue rectangle.  Sew the half square triangles together and then sew them to the blue rectangle.  This block also measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Completed corner block

Completed corner block

Make the corner blocks

The corner blocks are very large half square triangle units.  I haven’t made these in pairs as I did for the smaller units.  Simply cut an 18.7/8″ square along one diagonal and then sew a light blue and a white triangle together.

This block measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the four corners star quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  Make the first row with a corner block at each end and a block two in the middle.  Place the corner blocks so that the light blue triangles are on the outside, forming the corners of the quilt.

Row two

Row two

Form row two with the four corners star block in the middle and a block two on either side.  Place these so that the yellow triangles lie against the central block.

Row three

Row three

Finally make row three with a corner block at each end and a block two in the middle.  This time place the yellow triangles at the top of the block.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the border

Add the border

Add the quilt border

Use 3.1/2″ strips of dark blue fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the four corners star quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Oxford High Street

Oxford High Street

Last week I paid an overnight visit to Oxford, commonly known as the city of dreaming spires.

The buildings are absolutely beautiful and this photo shows the entrance to one of the colleges.  Unfortunately the colleges that I went past weren’t open to visitors.

Bodleian Library reading room

Bodleian Library reading room

I don’t think that this building is actually on a slope, so I’m not sure how I managed to take a photo making it look like  a leaning tower.  I think that it’s the reading room for the Bodleian Library which was just on my right as I took this photo.

As usual I haven’t had time to sort out all the photos, but I’ll make sure to get the Oxford and Blenheim Palace photos ready for next Friday.

Wonky Log Cabin Quilt Pattern

Wonky log cabin quilt

Wonky log cabin quilt

I have made this wonky log cabin quilt in its most simple form.  My main aim was to show you that you don’t have to use foundation piecing.  This simple rectangular quilt can be made with normal piecing – and it’s great fun.  I used it as a scrappy quilt and it ended up being a memory quilt as well.  As I rummaged through my stash I came across some lovely fabrics that I had forgotten about.

The quilt measures about 57″ by 74″, requiring twelve blocks which are 17″ square finished size.  I used about 2.1/2 yards of the grey background fabric together with about 8 red strips (3/4 yard), 14 blue strips (1 yard) and a further 3.1/2″ strip of red for the central squares and 3/4 yard of a dark fabric for the border.  The strips are all 2.1/2″ wide, so that you can used jelly roll leftover strips if you wish.




Wonky log cabin quilt block

Wonky log cabin quilt block

Cutting requirements for the wonky log cabin quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  twelve red

2.1/2″ strips:  approximately 35 grey, 8 red and 14 blue

For the border you will need to cut seven 3.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric.

Make the first round

Begin with a red square

Begin with a red square

Log cabin blocks traditionally have a red square in the middle to represent the fire in the hearth of the log cabin.  I have used a red metallic fabric for this.  Sew a 3.1/2″ grey strip to the bottom of the square and a 5.1/2″ strip to the left hand side.

Cut a triangle off

Cut a triangle off

Place your ruler so that it runs from the bottom right hand corner of this section to a point 2″ up from the bottom left hand corner.  Cut this triangle shape off.

Add the remaining logs

Add the remaining logs

Now add a 5.1/2″ grey strip across the top and a 7.1/2″ strip down the right hand side of the red square.

The progression in the photo runs down the left hand side and then down the right hand side of the photo.  Cut a triangle from the left hand side, top and then right hand sides of the section.  In each case the triangle runs from one corner to a point 2″ from the next corner.  This completed section measures about 5.1/2″ or 6″ square.

Add the red strips

Add the red strips

Make the second round of logs

For the next round I have used red strips.  They are from stash so each side is different.  Begin with a strip across the bottom and then add strips in a clockwise direction around the section.

Speed piecing log cabin blocks

Speed piecing log cabin blocks

Speed piecing log cabin blocks

I am using speed piecing for the rest of the block so I am not specifying lengths here.  This involves taking one strip of red fabric and sewing several blocks to it.  Place the red strip with right side up and then place a block with right side down against the red strip.  When you reach the bottom of the block, place another block to butt up against the first block and continue sewing.  At the end of the strip repeat with another red strip until you have added another red strip to every block.  Separate the blocks by cutting across the strip between each block.  This means that you don’t have to measure and cut each strip so it saves a huge amount of time.

Trim the red strips

Trim the red strips

Continue until you have added red strips to all four sides of the section.  Trim a triangle from each edge.  In this case place your ruler to run from one corner to a point only 1″ from the following corner.  This section measures about 9″ or 9.1/2″ square.

One of the reasons that I have varied the size of the triangles is because I wanted the coloured frames to stand out well so that you can see how the block has built up clearly.  So I have taken 2″ triangles from the grey frames and 1″ triangles from the coloured frames.

Third round of logs

Third round of logs

Complete the wonky log cabin quilt blocks

For the next round of logs use 2.1/2″ grey strips.  Cut 2″ triangles from this round.  This section measures about 11″ square.

Add the blue strips

Add the blue strips

I have used blue strips for the fourth round of logs, cutting 1″ triangles from each edge.  At this stage the block measures about 13.1/2″ to 14″ square.

Add the grey strips

Add the grey strips

Make the final round of logs with grey strips.  Don’t cut any triangles from this round of logs.

As I was cutting triangles from the previous frames I wasn’t worrying too much about accuracy.  The final reckoning comes now with the final grey frame.  The edges of all my blocks varied between 17.1/2″ and 18″ long.  At this stage I trimmed all the blocks to 17.1/2″ square.  What size you use for your blocks doesn’t matter.  The important point is that all blocks need to be the same size as each other so that you can sew them together.

Sew the blocks in rows of three

Sew the blocks in rows of three

Assemble the wonky log cabin quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of three blocks.  Sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

For the border I have used 3.1/2″ strips of a dark fabric to frame the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of approximately 51.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of approximately 74.1/2″ for the sides.  Do measure your quilt edges as they may vary slightly from mine.

That completes the wonky log cabin quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Snow in my garden

Snow in my garden

I can’t bring you any travel photos this week as I have hardly left the house all week.  We haven’t had nearly as much snow as most parts of the UK, but I still didn’t feel it was worth risking slipping on icy pavements when I didn’t really have any urgent reason to leave the house.

I hope that wherever you live you are safe and warm.

 

Multi Coloured Hawaiian Applique Wall Hanging

Palm tree Hawaiian applique

Palm tree Hawaiian applique

The multi coloured Hawaiian applique wall hanging comes as a result of my recent visit to the Canary Islands.  I was fascinated by the variety of palm trees.  I’ve made Hawaiian applique before, but always in one colour only.  I decided to experiment and see easy or difficult it would be to use several colours in the applique.  Cutting out the applique was slightly more difficult when I had to cut across the seam lines, but apart from that my experiment worked well.  I’ve ended up with yellow in the middle for the sand, then brown for the tree trunks surrounded by green for the palm leaves.




Cutting requirements for the multi coloured Hawaiian applique wall hanging

28″ square of sky blue fabric

3.1/2″ squares:  one yellow, one each in two different browns

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  one each in two different browns

4.1/2″ by 9.1/2″ rectangles:  one each in two different greens

17.1/2″ by 4.1/2″ rectangles:  one each in two different greens

8.1/4″ square of paper

1/2 yard of Mistyfuse or similar double sided fusible interfacing

There are full instructions for drawing the template below, but if you wish to use mine you can download it here.

Mark out a triangle

Mark out a triangle

Make the template

I began with a sheet of A4 paper which happens to be 8.1/4″ wide.  Mark a line 8.1/4″ from the top to create a square.  Mark the diagonal line.  I’ve shaded the bottom section and the top triangle which won’t be needed so that you can see the triangle to be used for the template.

Mark a point 4″ from the left corner on the bottom line of the triangle.  Draw another point 6″ from the left corner on the diagonal line.  These marks show where the brown ends and the green begins when you draw the palm trees.

This template will mark out half of the palm trees because the fabric will be folded when it is cut.

Draw the palm trees

Draw the palm trees

Mark a small triangle in the bottom left corner of the triangle.  This will give you a small star in the finished applique.

Begin with the diagonal edge and draw a line about 3/4″ from the line as far as the 6″ marker.  This is the trunk of the palm tree.  Then branch out and add three palm tree leaves along the rest of the diagonal line, finishing with a line into the corner.  On the bottom edge of the triangle (showing as the right hand edge in the second photo) draw a line for the tree trunk to the 4″ marker point and then add three leaves and a point at the top.  Cut out the template.

Add the brown for the trunks

Add the brown for the trunks

Make the square for applique

Begin with a yellow square (the sand).  Sew a brown square to the top and bottom followed by a brown rectangle to each side.

Add the green

Add the green

Now add a 9.1/2″ green rectangle to the top and bottom followed by a longer green rectangle to each side.

Press all the seam allowances away from the yellow square.  The square measures 17.1/2″ square at this stage.

Add the interfacing

Add the interfacing

Press a layer of double sided fusible interfacing to the back of this square.  I use Mistyfuse, but you can use whatever you prefer.  The important thing is that it’s fusible on both sides as this will mean you can press the final shape to the background square to hold it in place.

Fold the applique square

Fold the applique square

Cut out the template

Begin by folding the applique square in half once and then in half again.

Place this square so that the yellow square is in the bottom left corner.  The bottom and left hand edges will be folded while the top and right hand edges are raw edges.  This step is really important to make sure that your applique comes out as one piece rather than several disjointed pieces.

Pin the template to the fabric

Pin the template to the fabric

Fold the top left corner down to the bottom right corner to form a triangle.  Carefully place the paper template on top of this triangle and pin in place.

Cut around the template

Cut around the template

Using a sharp pair of scissors cut round the template.  This takes a bit of effort when you are cutting across the seam allowances – there are a lot of layers of fabric at these points.  However, the result is well worth the effort!

Applique section

Applique section

Complete the multi coloured Hawaiian applique top

Unpin the template and carefully unfold the multi coloured Hawaiian applique.  Fold the blue background face in half twice so that you have fold lines and can locate the centre where the two folds cross.  Place the applique shape on top of the blue background square and smooth gently.  Make sure that the small star in the middle is placed on the centre of the blue square.

Press carefully, beginning in the middle and pressing along each palm tree.  This will hold the applique in place until you are ready to sew round all the edges to hold the palm trees in place securely.  Layer, quilt and bind as for any quilt.

I am so pleased that I managed to make a project using multi coloured Hawaiian applique and I hope that this has given you lots of ideas for similar projects of your own.

Here’s the video:

Fuerteventura

Fuerteventura

Last week I promised you some photos from my trip to Fuerteventura.  I wrote a separate article and you can see it by clicking here or on the photo.

Windblown Square Quilt Pattern

Windblown square quilt

Windblown square quilt

For the Windblown Square quilt I decided to use simple four patch quilt blocks.  I chose three blocks which all have a white diamond forming in the middle of the block.  Obviously one of them was the windblown square quilt block.  Altogether I used three different blocks plus a simple half square triangle for the corners of the quilt.

The quilt measures 64″ square, using sixteen blocks which are all 12″ square finished size.  The fabric required was 2.3/4 yards of white, 1.1/2 yards of red, 3/4 yard of blue and 1/2 yard of gold.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the windblown square quilt

12.7/8″ squares:  two red, two white

3.7/8″ squares:  sixty eight blue, thirty two red, thirty two gold, one hundred and thirty two white

3.1/2″ squares:  thirty six white

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  eighteen white

For the border you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips of red across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a white square right sides together with either a red, blue or gold square and mark a line along the diagonal.

Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangles which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the coloured fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Flywheel quilt block layout

Flywheel quilt block layout

Make the flywheel quilt block

This is a delightful block that reminds me of a laurel wreath.  Lay the squares out in four rows of four.

Place a white rectangle at the beginning of row one and the end of row four. Add four blue/white half squares in the middle, placing them so that the white triangles form a white diamond.  Lay a white square in the top right and bottom left corners.  Add a half square triangle on each edge of the block to form a stripe with the blue triangles from the central area.  That just leaves you with two spaces for a white square at the end of row two and the beginning of row three.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make nine of them.

Windblown square quilt block layout

Windblown square quilt block layout

Make the windblown square quilt block

This block is made entirely with half square triangle units.  Lay the squares out in four rows of four again.  Begin by placing four gold/white half square triangles in the middle, forming a white diamond in the centre of the block.

Along each edge place two blue/white half square triangles to form a larger blue triangle pointing inwards.  Alongside these place a blue/white and a gold/white half square triangle to form a larger white triangle, also pointing inwards.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

The block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make eight of them.

Broken dishes quilt block layout

Broken dishes quilt block layout

Make the broken dishes quilt block

The third block is made entirely with red/white half square triangle units.  Begin with four half square triangles in the middle forming a white diamond surrounded by red.

Along each edge place two pairs of half square triangles, each pair facing a different way from the other pair.  To check the correct placement, look out for a white corner to the block and a larger red triangle pointing outwards on each edge.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  At this stage the block measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Make the corner blocks

Make the corner blocks

Make the corner blocks

This block is simplicity itself.  Cut the 12.7/8″ squares along one diagonal to make two triangles.  Sew a red and a white triangle together to form a square again.

The block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

I chose this design for the corners so that they would blend with the border and give a circular feel to the quilt design.

First two rows

First two rows

Assemble the windblown square quilt

Sew the blocks together in five rows of five.  Row one begins and ends with a corner block.  Between these place blue, gold and then blue blocks.

Begin and end row two with gold blocks.  In the middle place blue, red, blue blocks.

Row three

Row three

For row three, the central row, place a blue block at each end.  Between these place red, blue, red blocks.

Rows 4 and 5

Rows 4 and 5

The final two rows are similar to the first two rows.

Make row four with gold, blue, red, blue, gold blocks.  This is exactly the same as row two.

In row five you need two corner blocks at the ends with gold, blue, gold blocks in the middle.  This is the same as row one but with the corner blocks placed so that the red triangles form the bottom two corners of the quilt.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the windblown square quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric for the border.  You will need two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt, with two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the windblown square quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Dragon sand sculpture

Dragon sand sculpture

Last week I paid a flying visit to Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands.  It was wonderful to feel the warmth of the sun after all the snow that we seem to have had in Birmingham this winter.  I haven’t managed to sort through my photos yet so I’ll show them to you next week.  I have managed to find the sand sculpture photos, though.  The men making these were so clever – they worked really quickly to make the most wonderful designs.

It hasn’t shown up in the photo, but this dragon had smoke coming out of his nostrils.

Trees and volcanoes

Trees and volcanoes

A similar technique must have been used to produce smoke coming out of the volcanoes at the back of this sculpture.  The trees at the front fascinated me.  It certainly beats any sand castle that I made with the children when they were young!