Providence Quilt – Free Pattern

Providence quilt

Providence quilt

For this Providence quilt I have used several variations on the Providence quilt block.  My aim was to produce secondary designs threading through the quilt and I’m quite pleased with the way it has turned out.  Sometimes my quilts don’t look a bit like the original idea in my head, but this time it worked.  I have used nine blocks which are all 15″ square finished size.

The quilt measures 53″ square and I have used 1 yard each of dark blue metallic and red fabrics, together with 1.1/2 yards of white, 1/2 yard of cream and 1/4 yard of blue.  The dark blue is rather a pretty metallic floral fabric.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the Providence quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  twenty red, eight dark blue, twenty five blue, seventy two white

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty six cream thirty six white

4.1/4″ squares:  four red, three blue, eleven white, eleven dark blue

For the borders you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric in both red and dark blue.

Half square triangles

Half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a cream and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the white and trim the two corners where the triangle tips stick out.

Put these to one side so that they don’t get muddled with those made in the next stage.

Begin with half square triangles

Begin with half square triangles

Make quarter square triangles

You can make quarter square triangles by making half square triangles twice.  So begin by making half square triangles using 4.1/4″ squares in dark blue/white, blue/white and red/white.  Place one half square triangle right sides together with another half square triangle.  Add them so that the white on the top square is against the coloured fabric on the bottom square, seams following the same diagonal in both of them.

Completed quarter square triangle

Completed quarter square triangle

Mark a line along the diagonal that crosses the original seam line and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  This is shown in the right hand side of the photo.  Cut along the line to produce two quarter square triangles from each pair of half square triangles that you began with.

Having made half square triangles with all the 4.1/4″ squares, you need to turn them into quarter square triangles in these ratios:  eight half square triangles of dark blue with dark blue together in four pairs,  ten half square triangles of blue with dark blue together in five pairs, eight pairs of red with dark blue together in four pairs.  (I hope that’s right – I’ve tried to count them really carefully!).  Each quarter square triangle has at lease one dark blue triangle so that they can form those diamonds around the central squares.

Corner blocks

Corner blocks

Make the first quilt block

Lay the pieces out in five rows of five.   In each corner place a four patch layout of two white squares with two white/cream half square triangles.  Note that the two cream triangles form a butterfly shape across the corner.  In the middle of each edge place either a dark blue or a red square.

Add a red square in the middle.  On the top and the left hand side of this central square lay a quarter square triangle made with two dark blue triangles.  On the bottom and right of the central square lay a quarter square triangle with one dark blue triangle and one red triangle.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block at this stage measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them – one for each corner of the quilt.

Central block

Central block

Make the second block

The layout for this block is broadly the same as for the first block.  This time place a blue square in the centre and half way along each edge.  Use dark blue/blue quarter square triangles.  Make sure to place them so that the dark blue triangle always lies on the edge of the central square.  That way you form a dark blue diagonal around each central square.

Sew together as above.  The block measures 15.1/2″ square and you just need to make one for the middle of the quilt.

Third block

Third block

Make the third block

Again, this is very similar to the first two blocks.  Place a blue square in the middle with blue squares on the top and bottom edges of the block.  Add red squares to the two sides.  Use two dark blue/blue quarter square triangles and two dark blue/red quarter square triangles.  Lay these so that the dark blue triangles lie against the central square, the blue triangles are above and below the middle while the two red triangles are on the sides.

Sew together as above.  The block measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the Providence quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In row one you need a block one at each end with a block three between them.  Make sure that the blue runs vertically in the middle block and that the dark blue forms the top left corner in the first block or the top right in the third block.

In row two place the block two in the middle with a block three on either side of it.  Make sure that in the blocks at either end the blue runs horizontally while the red runs vertically.

Row three

Row three

For row three you need a block three in the middle with a block one at either end.  Make sure that the blue runs vertically in the middle block and that the dark blue forms the two quilt corners in the end blocks.

Providence quilt border

Providence quilt border

Add the quilt borders

For the first border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 45.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt, with two lengths of 49.1/2″ for the sides.

I formed the second border with 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue.  You’ll need two lengths of 49.1/2″ for the top and bottom together with two lengths of 53.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Providence quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/nDSmOKeWeOk

For those of you who have been asking, my next demonstration on the Sewing Quarter channel will be on September 24th – one at 9 am and one at 11 am.

Wednesbury Museum Art Gallery

Wednesbury Museum Art Gallery

Last week I took time off to visit the Wednesbury Museum and Art Gallery.  It’s not far from here and I had a lovely time there.  To see my photos click here or click on the photo.  I thought that those etchings on the glass would make lovely quilting designs.

Star and Squares Quilt – Free Pattern

Star and squares quilt

Star and squares quilt

The Star and Squares quilt is just as the name describes.  I’ve formed a large star in the middle with a pattern of squares in the corners.  These are shaded so that they form a blue diamond around the star.  I have used nine 15″ finished size blocks and the quilt measures 49″ square.  The quilt required 1 yard each of blue and green with 1.1/4 yards of white fabric.

As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.  I should add that for the green I have used a green metallic fabric that I think is really pretty.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the star and squares quilt

8.3/8″ squares:  ten blue, ten green

3.7/8″ squares:  ten blue, ten green

3.1/2″ squares:  sixteen green, sixteen blue, forty eight white

For the binding you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ white strips across the width of fabric.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use both the 8.3/8″ and the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a blue and a green square with right sides together and mark a line along one diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are either 3.1/2″ square or 7.7/8″ square.

Central block

Central block

Make the first block

Use four of the large half square triangles to create the central block.  I have used the simplest method of creating a diamond in a square block.  Place them in two pairs with the blue triangles in the middle.

Sew the squares together in pairs and then sew the pairs to each other.  The block now measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make just one.

Second block

Second block

Make the second block

For the second block I have used the same four large half square triangles but arranged them differently.  This time the blue triangles form larger blue triangles pointing towards the middle while the green triangles also form larger green triangles, also pointing towards the middle.  As before, sew the squares together in pairs and then sew the pairs to each other.  This block also measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Corner block layout

Corner block layout

Make the squares block

For the corner blocks I have used a simple design of alternating squares, but I have shaded them so that the block is shaded blue in one half and shaded green in the other half.  The diagonal itself uses blue/green half square triangles.

The block consists of five rows of five squares.  I would recommend placing the half square triangles along the diagonal first and then adding blue and white to one side of the diagonal with green and white on the other side of the diagonal.  Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

At this stage the block measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the star and squares quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  For row one place a squares block at each end with the blue section nearest the middle and the green section forming the top corners of the quilt.  In the middle place one of the second blocks, laying it so that the blue triangles are vertical and the green triangles are horizontal.

Row two

Row two

In row two you need the diamond in a square block in the middle with a triangles block at each end.  Lay these so that the blue triangles are horizontal and the green triangles are vertical.

Row three

Row three

Row three is similar to row one, but the corner blocks are placed slightly differently.  The green triangles still form the quilt corners and the blue triangles still point towards the middle, but the diagonals move inwards now to complete the overall diamond in the background of the star – that was my intention anyway!

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

White quilt border

White quilt border

Add the quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of white fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 45.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 49.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the star and squares quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/F68OKWVAJnI

Shugborough Hall

Shugborough Hall

When travelling north on the motorway I have often seen signs for Shugborough Hall.  Last time I went to Fabric Freedom I made a detour so that I could visit it.  To see my photos click here or click on the photo.

This week has been busy even by my standards.  I have been making a very large quilt for my appearance on the Sewing Quarter this morning.  It’s a gorgeous quilt, but it certainly took some time.  Then Fabric Freedom asked me to make some sample quilts for them, so I have been very busy.  After my two craft stalls this weekend I think I will need a day of quiet reading to recover!

Summer Garden Quilt Pattern

Summer Garden quilt

Summer Garden quilt

The Summer Garden quilt is based very loosely on Clara Stone’s Dutch Rose quilt block.  I’ve added in plenty of different colours to give it a summer garden feel.  I have used two 24″ blocks finished size, making a rectangular quilt 34″ by 58″.  That could be a throw or a single bed quilt.  In fact, now that I look at the name, it could also be a quilt to use in the garden.

Of course if you wanted to make it bigger you could just keep adding blocks.  The quilt needed 1/2 yard each of white, lilac, green and pink, together with 3/4 yard each of blue and purple.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the summer garden quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  eight white, eight purple, sixteen blue, eight lilac, eight pink

3.7/8″ squares:  six each in white and lilac, six each in white and pink, two each in green and lilac, six each in green and purple

For the borders you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ purple strips, four 1.1/2″ green strips and five 2.1/2″ blue strips, all across the width of fabric.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Make half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along one diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Purple quarter

Purple quarter

Make the lilac quarter

This block can best be made in quarters.  Each quarter is just four rows of four squares.  Down one diagonal place a white square followed by two blues and a purple square.  Down the other diagonal place a lilac/white half square triangle in each corner with two lilac squares between them.  In the remaining spaces on the top and the left place two lilac/white half square triangles, with the lilac squares together forming a larger lilac triangle pointing away from the middle.  In the spaces on the bottom and the right place green/purple and a green/lilac half square triangles, with the green triangles together forming a larger green triangle pointing towards the middle.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Pink quarter

Pink quarter

Make the pink quarter

For this quarter my intention was to replace the lilac squares with pink and leave everything else the same.  However if you look closely you’ll see that I haven’t quite done that – there are two purple/green half square triangles which should have been pink/green.  By the time I realised this it was far too late to unpick and start again, so I have left them in and adjusted the cutting requirements to match the layout in the photos.

Look for the larger shapes to check that you have your triangles placed correctly.  There is a large white triangle across the corner, the green triangles are always placed together to form larger green triangles pointing inwards, while on two of the edges the pink triangles lie together to form larger pink triangles pointing out.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This quarter also measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Keep the purple squares in the centre

Keep the purple squares in the centre

Complete the summer garden quilt block

Use two lilac and two pink quarters to make one block, placing the lilac quarters diagonally opposite each other.  Rotate the quarters so that the purple square is always in the middle of the block.

Sew the quarters together in pairs and then sew the pairs together.  The block measures 24.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make two of them.

Add the purple border

Add the purple border

Assemble the quilt and borders

Sew the blocks to each other.  For the first border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of purple fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 24.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the sides.

Green and blue borders

Green and blue borders

I’ve used 1.1/2″ strips of green for the second border:  two lengths of 28.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the sides.

Finally for the third border use 2.1/2″ strips of blue fabric:  two lengths of 30.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 58.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Summer Garden quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/T4ramWbOX_g

My favourite show quilt

My favourite show quilt

Last time I wrote I promised you my photos of the lovely quilts at the Festival of Quilts.  You can seem them here or click on the photo.

This morning I am demonstrating on the Sewing Quarter TV channel – wish me luck!  I’m back there in two weeks’ time on August 30th.  Then tomorrow I have a stall at the craft fair in Malvern.  No doubt on Sunday I will collapse in a heap and rest.

Diamonds in Rings Quilt Pattern

Diamonds in Rings quilt

Diamonds in Rings quilt

For the Diamonds in Rings quilt I have used jewel colours to create a four patch diamond in the middle of rings of blue.  The design may look quite complex, but it is really quite easy to make.

To make the quilt I used 1/2 yard of purple, 3/4 yard each of light blue and of green, together with 1.1/4 yards each of dark blue and white.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.

The quilt measures 57″ square, using nine blocks which are nearly 18″ square.

In order to celebrate ten years since I launched Ludlow Quilt and Sew I am holding a 20% off sale – full details at the bottom of the page.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the Diamonds in Rings quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  seventy two white

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty six dark blue, thirty six white, nine purple, nine green

4.5/8″ squares:  thirty six dark blue, thirty six light blue, nine purple

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of green across the width of fabric.

Nine patch unit

Nine patch unit

Make the nine patch unit

Begin with the nine patch unit forming the middle of each block.  Use the 4.5/8″ squares to create two rows of dark blue, light blue, dark blue and one row of light blue, purple, light blue.

You could use individual squares here or sew strips together along the length and then cut them at 4.5/8″ intervals.  Sew the rows to each other to form the nine patch unit.  Make nine of these.

Add the edges to the blocks

I have added a large patchwork triangle to each side of the nine patch unit.  This turns the unit so that the squares appear to be formed along the diagonal lines.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

For these sections I needed to use half square triangles.  Make these using the 3.7/8″ squares of green and purple with white.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances away from the white and trim the two corners where fabrics stick out.

You will still have 3.7/8″ squares in white and dark blue – these are cut in half along the diagonal and used as separate triangles.

Purple triangle sections

Purple triangle sections

Form half of the large triangles using a purple half square triangle in the corner.  Next to it lay a white square and a dark blue triangle.

In the row beneath this, use a white square and a white triangle.  For the third row you just need a dark blue triangle.  Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  Make eighteen of these.

Green triangles

Green triangles

Now make similar triangles but with a green half square triangle in the top left hand corner.  The remaining pieces are exactly the same as for the purple triangle above.  Make eighteen of these green triangles.

Add a triangle to each edge

Add a triangle to each edge

Assemble the blocks

Add one large triangle to each edge of the nine patch units.  Place them so that you have two purple triangles opposite each other and two green triangles opposite each other.  In the photo I have placed green triangles at the top and bottom with purple triangles on the sides.

Sew the triangles two at a time

Sew the triangles two at a time

Join these triangles to the nine patch units two at a time.  Sew the triangles to the top and bottom of the nine patch unit, press them open and then sew the remaining two triangles to the sides.

The triangles are slightly longer than the nine patch edges – this is by design.  When sewing a triangle to the central unit it should stick out about 1/4″ at each end.  This will give you a straight edge to the finished block.

At this stage the blocks measure just under 18″ square.  Make nine of them.

Three rows of three

Three rows of three

Assemble the Diamonds in Rings quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  Make sure that the purple corners are always top left and bottom right of the blocks.  Otherwise you won’t get that pretty four patch unit formed where the blocks join together.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Green quilt border

Green quilt border

Add the border

I have used 2.1/2″ strips of green for the border.  You will need two lengths of about 53″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of about 57″ for the sides.  You’ll need to measure your own quilt to be sure of the lengths as they may vary a little from mine.

That completes the Diamonds in Rings quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/Ab-3YJEzefg

As I mentioned above, it is now ten years since I started this business.  It has been a wonderful decade and I have met many lovely quilters from all round the world.  In order to celebrate this, I am offering a discount of 20% on all orders over £6 from today till next Thursday.  Take a look at https://shop.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk/.  The discount will be taken off automatically at the checkout section.

By the time you read this I will be at the NEC for the wonderful Festival of Quilts.  I hope to be able to bring you photos of lots of lovely quilts next time I write.

Railfence Star Quilt Pattern

Railfence star quilt

Railfence star quilt

I have designed my railfence star quilt pattern with two colourways for the railfences and a few stars to give it some pop.  It is a very simple pattern to make, but very striking.  The quilt measures 56″ square, using 1.1/4 yards of yellow, 1/2 yard of white, 1 yard of one of the blues, 1/2 yard of another blue and 1/4 yard of everything else – that’s four purples and two more blue fabrics.

The fabrics are chosen to run from dark to light in blue and again in purple.  I have used sixty four blocks, all 6″ square finished size.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the railfence star quilt

Five 1.1/2″ strips cut across the width of fabric in four purples and four blues

Ten 1.1/2″ strips cut across the width of fabric in yellow and in white

2.1/2″ squares:  six yellow twenty four blue

2.7/8″ squares:  twelve yellow, twelve blue

For the borders you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips of yellow and six 2.1/2″ strips of blue across the width of fabric.

Make panels in blue and in purple

Make panels in blue and in purple

Make the railfence quilt blocks

Sew the 1.1/2″ strips of four blues with yellow and white along the length to make one panel.  Repeat with the four purples, yellow and white.  Place the strips so that they run from dark to light.  This makes a 6.1/2″ panel in each range of colours.  You need to make five of each panel.

Cut these panels at 6.1/2″ intervals to make 6.1/2″ squares.  You need to make twenty nine of these in blue and twenty nine in purple.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the star blocks

For the stars I have used the third lightest blue, but you could use any blue that you prefer.

Use the 2.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles.  Place a blue and a yellow square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.

These are now 2.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.  You need twenty four of these.

Star quilt block layout

Star quilt block layout

Lay the squares out in three rows of three.  Place a 2.1/2″ yellow square in the middle with a blue square in each corner.  Add half square triangles in the remaining spaces.  Check the photo to see which way to place the traingles.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Each star block measures 6.1/2″ square and you need to make six of them.

Rows 1-3

Rows 1-3

Assemble the railfence star quilt

Sew the blocks together in eight rows of eight blocks.  In row one place a star at each end.  Between them lay a purple block across, purple block down, blue block down, two purple blocks across and one purple block down.

For row two you need two blue blocks across, one purple down, two blues across, one blue down, one purple down and one blue across.  In row three place a purple down, blue down, two purples across, one purple down, one blue down and two purples across.

Rows 4-6

Rows 4-6

For row four you will need a purple down, two blues across, two stars, two blues across and one blue down.

In row five place two purples across, one purple down, one blue down, two purples across, one purple down and one blue down.

For row six place a blue across, blue down, purple down, two blues across, one blue down, one purple down and one blue across.

Rows 7-8

Rows 7-8

Make row seven witha purple across, blue down, two purples across, one purple down, one blue down and two purples across.

Finally for row eight place a star at each end.  Between them add two blues across, one blue down, one purple down, two blues across.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add two borders

Add two borders

Add the railfence star quilt borders

In border one I have used 2.1/2″ strips of yellow fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the sides.

For the second border I have used the second lightest blue fabric in 2.1/2″ strips.  You’ll need two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 56.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the railfence star quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/GKdO5X03ecg

Ben Venom's quilts

Ben Venom’s quilts

Last time I wrote I was off to a craft fair the next day.  As a totally unexpected treat there was a quilt exhibition upstairs in the MAC building.  It featured Ben Venom’s quilts in an exhibition called All This Mayhem.  Ben is a renowned San Francisco artist.

I am delighted to see that this exhibition will be at the Festival of Quilts next month.  Well worth seeing if you are there.

All this mayhem

All this mayhem

Birmingham is known as the home of Heavy Metal music and Ben’s quilts are heavy metal music meets quilting.  Absolutely delightful.  He had used a sort of crazy quilting/applique technique and the detail was amazing.

Blue Bargello Quilt Pattern

Blue bargello quilt

Blue bargello quilt

I’m thrilled with the way this blue bargello quilt has turned out.  I’ve used patches of differing sizes to create the feeling of movement.  The squares and rectangles are 4″, 3″, 2″ or 1″.  However the method of making the quilt differs from the more traditional bargello where you create loops of patches and break into them to create the design.  Instead I have used strip piecing to create panels which use all the different sizes of patches.  An incredibly easy quilt to make, using sixteen 10″ square blocks.

The quilt measures 56″ square and it takes 1/2 yard each of three different blues with 1.1/2 yards of white fabric.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the blue bargello quilt

Dark blue:  two strips 4.1/2″ wide, one strip 3.1/2″ wide, one strip 2.1/2″ wide and two strips 1.1/2″ wide

Medium blue:  two strips 4.1/2″ wide, two strips 3.1/2″ wide, one strip 2.1/2″ wide, one strip 1.1/2″ wide

Light blue:  one strip 4.1/2″ wide, two strips 3.1/2″ wide, two strips 2.1/2″ wide, one strip 1.1/2″ wide

White:  one strip 4.1/2″ wide, one strip 3.1/2″ wide, two strips 2.1/2″ wide, two strips 1.1/2″ wide.

First strip panel

First strip panel

Make the strip panels

Sew together two panels, each one with one 4.1/2″ strip of dark blue, one 3.1/2″ strip of medium blue, one 2.1/2″ strip of light blue and one 1.1/2″ strip of white.  Cut these panels at 4.1/2″ intervals to make rectangles 4.1/2″ by 10.1/2″.  You need sixteen of these rectangles.

Cut only the sixteen that you need so that you can use the remainder of the panel for the second border.  The same applies to all the panels.

Second strip panel

Second strip panel

For the second strip panel sew together two panels, each one with a 4.1/2″ strip of medium blue, 3.1/2″ strip of light blue, 2.1/2″ strip of white and 1.1/2″ strip of white fabric.  Cut these panels at 3.1/2″ intervals and make sixteen of these rectangles.

Third panel

Third panel

Make the third panel with a 4.1/2″ strip of light blue, 3.1/2″ strip of white, 2.1/2″ strip of dark blue and a 1.1/2″ strip of medium blue.  You only need one of this panel.  Cut it at 2.1/2″ intervals to make sixteen rectangles.

Fourth panel

Fourth panel

Finally for the fourth panel sew together a 4.1/2″ strip of 4.1/2″ white, 3.1/2″ strip of dark blue, 2.1/2″ strip of medium blue, 1.1/2″ strip of light blue.  You need just one of this panel.  Cut it at 1.1/2″ intervals to make sixteen rectangles.

Press the seam allowances in opposite directions

Press the seam allowances in opposite directions

When you press the strip panels, press the seam allowances in one direction for the 4.1/2″ and 2.1/2″ strips.  Press them in the opposite direction for the 3.1/2″ and 1.1/2″ strips.  That way your seams will nest together when you sew the rectangles together.  The photo shows the back view of the block.

Quilt block layout

Quilt block layout

Make the blue bargello quilt block

Take one rectangle from each of the four panels.  Lay them out as shown in decreasing order with the 4.1/2″ strip of the left and the 1.1/2″ strip on the right.  Sew the strips together to complete the block – really simple, isn’t it!

The block measures 10.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make sixteen of them.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the blue bargello quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  In order to construct the design you need to rotate the blocks.  Use the 4.1/2″ dark blue square as your reference.  In row one this square is placed bottom right, bottom right, bottom left and bottom left.

For the second row place the dark blue square top right, bottom right, bottom left and top left.  You can see where the two dark blue squares together form rectangles as a guide, and the white patches are forming the top half of circles.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

For row three place the dark blue square bottom right, top right, top left and bottom left.

In row four you need to place the dark blue square top right, top right, top left and top left.  You still have several dark blue rectangles forming and the white patches are now forming the lower half of circles.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

First border

First border

Add the borders

For the first border I used 3.1/2″ strips of white fabric. This was to help the design of the quilt to stand out.  You’ll need two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 46.1/2″ for the sides.

Use the remaining strip sets

Use the remaining strip sets

For the second border I wanted to use up the remaining sections of the strip panels.  I cut all the remaining pieces into 2.1/2″ widths.  Luckily I ended up with twenty of these rectangles which was just what I needed.  I sewed them together in four rows of five strips, giving me four 50.1/2″ lengths.

Second border

Second border

For the border I needed two lengths of 46.1/2″ and two lengths of 50.1/2″, so I could trim two of the lengths for the top and bottom and use the full lengths for the sides.

If you don’t manage to cut twenty 2.1/2″ strips from your leftovers you can always just add some extra 2.1/2″ sections of one of the blues.

Third border

Third border

Third and final border

For the final border I used 3.1/2″ strips of white again.  You’ll need two lengths of 50.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 56.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the blue bargello quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/xOeQ6hhWdOM

Birmingham Peace Garden

Birmingham Peace Garden

Last week I visited somewhere that I’ve wanted to see for a long time.  I’ve seen it from the bus on my way into town but never actually got round to stopping off to see it.  It’s the St Thomas Peace Garden and to see my photos click here or click on the photo.

Busy, busy weekend coming up – I’m off to London to see the family tomorrow, then on Sunday I have a craft stall in Cannon Hill Park and on Monday it’s back to London to go to Wimbledon with my daughter.  We have tickets for Number One Court which is very exciting.

Floor Tile Lap Quilt Pattern

Floor tile quilt

Floor tile quilt

This floor tile lap quilt design is based loosely on some floor tiles that I saw in the V&A museum – that place is a treasure trove of design ideas!  I have added some more colour to the blocks.  For the central area I added a design that is more usual around the edges of tile designs.  In the original floor tiles you can see that they have used plain squares for the alternate while I have repeated the nine patch block, but with different colours.

Floor tile design

Floor tile design

The quilt measures 38″ square, using 1/2 yard each of cream and light purple, 3/4 yard of purple and 1/4 yard of brown fabric.  I have used nine 10″ square finished size blocks with two borders.

As ever, you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the floor tile quilt

2.1/2″ squares:  twenty brown, twenty light purple, sixteen cream, sixteen purple

6.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips:  eight cream, eight purple

10.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ strips:  eight cream, eight purple

1.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ strips:  eight cream, four light purple, four purple, four brown

For the borders you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ strips of light purple and of purple, all across the width of fabric.

Using strip piecing

Using strip piecing

Make the first block

I have used strip piecing, but this is perhaps a bit wasteful of fabric unless you want more of the blocks for another project, as I did.  You may prefer just to cut individual squares and sew them together.  However if you are using strip piecing, sew together 2.1/2″ strips along the length.  You need to make panels in dark, light, dark and in light, dark, light.  Cut these panels at 2.1/2″ intervals.  This produces rectangles 2.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ made up of three squares.

Make the nine patch block

Make the nine patch block

Place a dark, light, dark strip at top and bottom with a light, dark, light strip between them.  Sew these strips to each other.  This creates a simple nine patch block.

Add a cream frame

Add a cream frame

Now add a 2.1/2″ frame around the nine patch block.  Add 6.1/2″ strips of cream to the top and bottom with two 10.1/2″ strips down the sides.

That completes the first quilt block.  It measures 10.1/2″ square at the moment and you need to make four of them.

Second quilt block layout

Second quilt block layout

Make the second quilt block

The second block is the same basic design as the first block.  This time I have switched the colours, using purple and light purple.  I have placed the dark fabric (purple) where in the first block I had placed light fabric (cream).  This was to add a bigger contrast between the blocks.

This block also measures 10.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

Use strip piecing again

Use strip piecing again

Make the central block

In the middle of the quilt I have used a railfence/piano keys type of block.  Again I used strip piecing, sewing together 1.1/2″ strips of cream, light purple, brown, cream and purple.  Cut this panel at 5.1/2″ intervals to create squares.

Sew together four squares

Sew together four squares

Sew four of these squares together, laying them so that the stripes are alternately vertical and horizontal.  I have chosen to place them so that the cream stripe is on the outside in each square.

The block measures 10.1/2″ square and you need to make one only.

Sew the rows together

Sew the rows together

Assemble the floor tile lap quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In rows one and three use a brown block at each end with a purple block between them.  For row three place a purple block at each end with the stripey block between them.  Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt borders

Add the quilt borders

Add the quilt borders

For the first border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of light purple fabric.  You will need two lengths of 30.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 34.1/2″ for the sides.  In the second border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of dark purple – two lengths of 34.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 38.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the floor tile lap quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/vw4NQua5vm8

Bradford by night

Bradford by night

Last time I visited Bradford to buy fabric I decided to visit the city itself rather than just the fabric warehouse.  What a lovely surprise it was – a lovely city.  To see my photos click on Bradford City or on the photo.

Edgbaston cricket ground

Edgbaston cricket ground

My daughter was clever enough to get tickets for one of the World Cup cricket matches held here in Birmingham and on Wednesday we watched the New Zealand/South Africa match at Edgbaston.  What an exciting match it was, with the result hanging in the balance right up to the last over.  Definitely a day to remember!

Rose of Sharon Quilt – Free Pattern

Rose of Sharon quilt

Rose of Sharon quilt

The Rose of Sharon quilt block comes in many different forms.  Needless to say, I have chosen to design an easy version!  Within this quilt I’ve used applique as well as piecing.  Coincidentally it now looks to be a Christmas design, but that wasn’t my intention when I began to make it.  It seems that the original reference to the rose of Sharon comes from the Bible:

I am the rose of Sharon, and the lily of the valleys. As the lily among thorns, so is my love among the daughters.
The Song of Solomon 2

Apparently the rose is now thought to be a variety of tulip that still grows in the plains of Sharon – the word rose was used when the Bible was translated into English.

The quilt measures 40″ square, using nine 12″ square finished size blocks.  I have used 3/4 yard each of white, red and green, with 1/2 yard of yellow.  As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the rose of Sharon quilt

12.1/2″ square:  one white

For the applique cut one 4″ strip of red and one 2.1/2″ green strip – both strips approximately 6″ long

6.7/8″ squares:  eight red, eight green

4.1/2″ squares:  twelve white, four red

4.7/8″ squares:  four each in red and white, four each in green and white

2.1/2″ squares:  four yellow, four white

4.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ rectangles:  four white

Applique templates (if you wish to use mine) can be downloaded here.

For the border you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ yellow strips across the width of fabric.

Drawing the applique shapes

Drawing the applique shapes

Make the rose of Sharon quilt block

Use the 12.1/2″ white square as the background for this block.  Add a fusible interfacing (I used Mistyfuse) to the red and green strips for the applique.  You can either download the templates here or you may prefer to draw your own.  Basically for the large flower I drew round a wine glass and then added petals.  For the small flowers I did the same but used a liqueur glass.  My biggest problem was finding the right size – the large flower is roughly 3.1/2″ across and the small flower is roughly 2″ across.

Draw the shapes on to your fabric and cut out.

Partial placement

Partial placement

Place the template shapes on the white square.  In the photo you can see the large flower in the middle with pairs of stems leading off, each with a small flower at the end.  At this stage I was just checking the placements so that I could decide what size to make the leaves.

Rose of Sharon quilt block

Rose of Sharon quilt block

Then I cut the leaves and placed one between each pair of stems.  Broadly, each leaf points towards one corner.  The ends of the leaves and of the stems are tucked under the edges of the flowers.  When you’re happy with the placement, press the shapes to stick them to the background square.  It’s probably easiest to sew the shapes in place now.  I used a small zigzag stitch around all the edges.  This block measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make only one.

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle block

Use the 6.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Lay a red and a green square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 6.1/2″ square.

Alternate blocks

Alternate block

Sew these together in fours, making sure that the green triangles are side by side forming larger triangles opposite each other.  Likewise for the red triangles.  At this stage the block measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Pieced rose quilt block

Pieced rose quilt block

Make the rose corner blocks

For this block I have pieced roses, one pointing to each corner.  Make red/white and green/white half square triangles with the 4.7/8″ squares.

Place a white 4.1/2″ square in three corners with a red square in the middle.  Add two green/white half square triangles either side of the bottom right white square.  These are the leaves of the rose.  Place two red/white half square triangles to form a butterfly shape across the top left corner.  In the top left corner place the 4.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ white strip with 2.1/2″ white and yellow squares beneath it.

Sew the three pieces of the top left corner together first to make one square.  Then sew the squares together across each row and sew the rows to each other.  At this stage the rose block measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Rose one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the rose of Sharon quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In row one place a pieced rose block at each end with a half square triangle block in the middle.  Make sure that the roses point towards the corners and the green is vertical in the half square triangle block.

In row two place the rose of Sharon block in the middle with a half square triangle on either side of it.  This time make sure that the green is horizontal in the half square triangle blocks.

Row three

Row three

For row three you will need a half square triangle block (green vertical) in the middle, with a pieced rose block on either side.  The roses point downwards towards the corners.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Yellow quilt border

Yellow quilt border

Add the quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of yellow fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the rose of Sharon quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/P5QN8MWuba0

It’s been a manic week as I’m back on Sewing Quarter’s TV channel on Sunday.  I’m demonstrating one of my own quilts (quite ordinary) and a quilt pattern by Lynne Edwards which I think is absolutely stunning.  I think that my sessions are at 9 and 11 o’clock.  The Sewing Quarter is available on Sky 687, Freeview 73, youtube or online.  I’m also demonstrating again on Tuesday 18th June.

Wrought iron work

Wrought iron work

But although I haven’t had the chance to do any travelling this week I didn’t want to leave you without any photos so here are two that I took a few weeks ago when I visited the lovely V&A  Museum in London.

This one was an exhibition of wrought iron work and there were some lovely examples there that I could just see in a Through the Gate quilt.

What a dress!

What a dress!

This one came from the fashion exhibition.  Imagine trying to walk around in a dress this size!

Whirligig Cross Quilt Pattern

Whirligig cross quilt

Whirligig cross quilt

I’ve made the Whirligig Cross quilt using my favourite colours of red, blue and white.  I began with five whirligig blocks in a cross shape, added some half square triangles to create a diamond affect and then added three borders to the quilt.  It measures 54″ square and I have used 1 yard of light blue, 3/4 yard of white, 1.1/4 yards of dark blue and 1.1/2 yards of red fabric.   The quilt is constructed with nine 12″ blocks finished size.  There are three borders to provide a good solid frame for the quilt.  The blue and white squares were intended to look like the edges of an old fashioned film spool.

As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the whirligig cross quilt

12.7/8″ squares:  two light blue, two dark blue

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty each in red and white, ten each in light blue and white, ten each in dark blue and light blue

For borders one and three you will need to cut nine 3.1/2″ strips of red fabric across the width of fabric

For border two you will need thirty 3.1/2″ dark blue squares and thirty 3.1/2″ white squares.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Whirligig block layout

Whirligig block layout

Make the whirligig block

This block uses half square triangles only.  It is also known as a mosaic block.  Lay the pieces out in four rows of four.  Begin with four dark blue/light blue half square triangles in the middle.  Across each corner place two red/white half square triangles.  The red triangles together form a stripe across each corner.  In the remaining four spaces place a light blue/white half square triangle.  The light blue triangles form a stripe with the light blue from the central area.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block now measures 12.1/2″ square and you need to make five of them.

Corner blocks

Corner blocks

Make the corner blocks

Cut the 12.7/8″ squares along one diagonal to create two triangles from each square.  Sew a dark blue and a light blue triangle together – that’s the corner block complete!  The block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

First two rows

First two rows

Assemble the whirligig cross quilt

Lay the blocks out in three rows of three.

In row one lay a corner block at each end with a whirligig block in the middle.  Make sure that the dark blue triangles are at the top, forming the corners of the quilt.  For row you just need three whirligig blocks placed side by side.

Row three

Row three

For the third row place a corner block at each end with a whirligig block in the middle.  This time place the dark blue triangles at the bottom so that they form the bottom corners of the whirligig cross quilt.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

First border

First border

Add the quilt borders

For the first border I have used 3.1/2″ strips of red fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 42.1/2″ for the sides.

Sew together blue and white strips

Sew together blue and white strips

In the second border I used alternating squares of blue and white.  I was aiming for the sort of look that you get from the old fashioned film spools.  The simplest way to make this border is to sew together 3.1/2″ strips of blue and white along the length.  Cut the resulting panel at 3.1/2″ intervals to make rectangles 3.1/2″ by 6.1/2″.

Make strips of blue and white

Make strips of blue and white

Sew these together side by side to make strips of squares.  You’ll need two lengths of fourteen squares for the top and bottom of the quilt, together with two lengths of sixteen squares for the sides.

Third border

Third border

Finally for the third border I used 3.1/2″ strips of red again.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/od3hWa-rd70

Beautiful Prague

Beautiful Prague

When I visited Prague Patchwork I spent a few days exploring Prague itself.  To see my photos of this beautiful city click here or click on the photo.

Many thanks for all the lovely birthday wishes you sent me two weeks ago.  Unusually for me, I actually held a party last Sunday to celebrate.  We had a lovely day but I’m still eating the leftovers!

Irish Chain Star Quilt Pattern

Irish chain star quilt

Irish chain star quilt

My Irish chain star quilt was intended to be more of an Irish chain but I kept adding extra elements so I’m not sure if it still qualifies as an Irish chain quilt.  All three blocks are very simple to make.  I’ve used two batik fabrics and I’m really pleased with how the quilt looks now.  There are twenty five 9″ blocks finished size in the design.  The quilt measures 53″ square and I have used 1.3/4 yards of blue batik, 1 yard of cream, 3/4 yard of white and 1/2 yard of green batik.

As usual you can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.  As it’s my 65th birthday on Sunday I am also offering an additional 20% off all purchases over £6.  Details at the bottom of the page.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the Irish star quilt

3,1/2″ squares:  sixty five blue, sixty eight white, four cream  – but check the pattern before you cut these as they can be pieced using strip piecing

3.7/8″ squares:  eight cream, eight white

9.7/8″ squares:  four green, four blue

For the borders you will need five 2.1/2″ cream strips and five 2.1/2″ blue strips cut across the width of fabric.

Strip piecing

Strip piecing

Make the nine patch units

Sew together 3.1/2″ strips of blue, white, blue and of white, blue, white.  Cut these panels at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This gives you rectangles 9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ which can be used to form the nine patch units.

Nine patch unit

Nine patch unit

Lay down a blue-white-blue strip at the top and bottom with a white-blue-white strip between them.  Sew the three strips to each other.  This forms the nine patch unit.  At this stage it measures 9.1/2″ square and you need to make thirteen of these.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the alternate block

Use the 9.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Lay a blue and a green square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Cut along the marked line to produce two half square triangle units.  Trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.  This unit measures 9.1/2″ square now and you need to make eight of them.

Star block layout

Star block layout

Make the star blocks

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles in the same way as above.  Place a 3.1/2″ cream square in the middle with white squares in each corner.  Add four half square triangle units in the remaining spaces.  Check the photo to see that you place the triangles correctly.  You need to have a cream edge lying against the central square.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block measures 9.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make four of them.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the Irish chain star quilt

Sew the blocks together in five rows of five.

In row one place a nine patch unit in positions one, three and five with a blue/green half square triangle in positions two and four.  Place the half square triangles so that the green is on the outside.  The seam line begins to form a line going from the top middle of the quilt to the middle of the sides.

For row two lay a half square triangle at each end with a nine patch, star, nine patch between them.  Again place the half square triangles so that the green is on the outside.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

In row three, the central row, place nine patch units in positions one, three and five.  Lay two star blocks in positions two and four.

Row four is similar to row two – a half square triangle at each end with a nine patch, star and nine patch between them.  Note that the half square triangles are angled differently now, so that the seams now begin to form lines running from the sides to the middle of the bottom edge.

Row five

Row five

Row five is similar to row one – nine patch units in positions one, three and five with half square triangles in positions two and four.  Again the half square triangles are placed so that the green is on the outside.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the borders

Add the borders

Add the quilt borders

For the first border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of cream fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 45.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 49.1/2″ for the sides.

Make the second border with 2.1/2″ strips of blue fabric – two lengths of 49.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 53.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Irish chain quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

https://youtu.be/ffqrXk512Mg

Prague patchwork 2019

Prague patchwork 2019

A few weeks ago I fulfilled one of my ambitions and went to Prague Patchwork 2019.  I first heard about it years ago and have always wanted to visit it.  It was a magnificent exhibition and you can see my photos by clicking here or click on the photo.

Now at the top of the page I mentioned that on Sunday I will reach the ripe old age of 65.  In order to celebrate this I am offering a 20% discount across the shop on all purchases over £6.  There is no code required – the discount will be applied automatically at checkout.  You can visit the shop here.

20% off all purchases over £6