Tulip Tile Medallion Quilt Pattern

Tulip tile medallion quilt

Tulip tile medallion quilt

I’ve used the Tulip Tile quilt block to make a medallion in the middle of this pretty summery quilt pattern.  The quilt measures 48″ square and I have used 1 yard each of white and green fabrics with 3/4 yard of pink, 1/2 yard of batik and 1/4 yard of dark purple fabric.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.  I am also holding a belated sale – I normally hold this particular one in May, but didn’t have time last month.  So you can get 16% off all purchases over £5.  No coupon required – the discount will be taken automatically at the checkout.




Completed tulip tile medallion

Completed tulip tile medallion

Cutting requirements for the tulip tile medallion quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  for the tulip tile quilt medallion you will need twenty four purple, twenty four white, four pink and two green.  For the tulip frame you will need twenty four pink, twenty four batik squares.

3.7/8″ squares:  for the tulip tile quilt medallion you will need one each in pink and white, one each in batik and white, one each in pink and batik, two each in pink and green.  For the tulip frame you will need twenty four each in pink and white.

Cut seven 3.1/2″ strips of green fabric across the width of fabric for the two green frames.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Use all the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Strip piece the squares

Strip piece the tiles

Strip piece the tiles

The quickest way to make the tiles around the central tulip is by using strip piecing.  Sew together a 3.1/2″ strip each of purple and white.  Cut this panel at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This gives you rectangles 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ which are pairs of squares.  Using these speeds up the piecing of the central section.

First four rows

First four rows

Make the tulip tile quilt block

This block is made with eight rows of eight squares.  I’ve shown them four rows at a time.

Rows one and two are made with four pairs of purple/white squares.  The first row begins with a purple square while the second row begins with a white square.  In row three there’s a pair of purple/white square at each end.  In the middle there are two pink/white and two batik/white half square triangle units.  The fourth row also has a pair of purple/white squares at each end, but there are two pink squares and two pink/batik half square triangles in the middle of the row.

Second half of block

Second half of block

In the second half of the block rows five and six each have a pair of purple/white squares at each end.  Row five contains two pink squares and two pink/green half square triangles in the middle.  Place two green squares and two pink/green half square triangles in the middle of row six.

Lay four pairs of purple/white squares in both row seven and row eight.  Row seven begins with purple while row eight begins with white.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the tulip tile medallion quilt block.  This measures 24.1/2″ square.

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Cut 3.1/2″ strips of green fabric for this first frame.  You’ll need two lengths of 24.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 30.1/2″ for the sides.  The medallion now measures 30.1/2″ square.

Make the mini tulips

Mini tulip blocks

Mini tulip blocks

For the next frame I have chosen to use mini tulip blocks.  These are what I normally refer to as rosebud shapes, but for today I’m calling them tulip shapes!

Place two pink/white half square triangles diagonally opposite each other with the pink triangles touching at the middle to form a butterfly shape.  On the other diagonal place a pink square and a batik square.  Sew the squares together in pairs and then sew the pairs to each other.  This four patch block now measures 6.1/2″ square.  Make twenty four of these.

Sew together rows of tulips

Sew together rows of tulips

Add the tulip frame

Sew the tulip blocks together in two rows of five blocks and two rows of seven blocks.  You can choose which way you’d like to sew them together.  I have chosen to have all the tulips facing in the same direction.  They form a circuit around the medallion block.

I toyed with the idea of alternating the blocks to make zig zag shapes, but it didn’t look right to me because there are an odd number of blocks along each edge.

Sew the two rows of five blocks to the top and bottom of the quilt.  Then sew the two rows of seven blocks to the sides.  The quilt now measures 42.1/2″ square.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the tulip tile medallion quilt border

Lastly for the final border I have used the same 3.1/2″ strips of green fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 42.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the tulip tile medallion quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Quilting fabrics

Quilting fabrics

I mentioned my fabric sale at the top of the page.  Just to repeat myself – I’m offering a discount of 16% on all sales over £5.  Click here to take a look at my quilting shop.

Log Cabin Cross Quilt Pattern

Log cabin cross quilt

Log cabin cross quilt

In the log cabin cross quilt I have used log cabin blocks along with stripey blocks which are made using the same fabrics in the same widths.  Just to mix things up a little, I’ve used different widths of logs.  I have also shaded one colour from dark to light and the other from light to dark.  That’s what I love about log cabin quilts – they are so simple and there are so many ways that you can vary the basic pattern.

The quilt measures 52″ by 76″.  I have used 1 yard each of light green and light purple, 3/4 yard each of dark green, medium purple and white, 1/2 yard each of medium green and dark purple.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed log cabin block

Completed log cabin block

Cutting requirements for the log cabin cross quilt

White:  twelve 3.1/2″ squares

Dark purple:  twelve 2.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ strips, twelve 2.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ strips

Medium purple:  twelve 2.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ strips, twelve 2.1/2″ by 8.1/2″ strips

Light purple:  twelve 2.1/2″ by 9.1/2″ strips, twelve 2.1/2″ by 11.1/2″ strips

Dark green:  twelve 1.1/2″ by 11.1/2″ strips, twelve 1.1/2″ by 12.1/2″ strips

Medium green:  twelve 1.1/2″ by 8.1/2″ strips, twelve 1.1/2″ by 9.1/2″

Light green:  twelve 1.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ strips, twelve 1.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ strips

For the alternate blocks you will need to cut four strips of each fabric in the widths they are used in the log cabins.  That’s 2.1/2″ in the purples, 1.1/2″ in the greens and 3.1/2″ in white

The final border is made using six 2.1/2″ strips of light green cut across the width of fabric.

First round of logs

First round of logs

Make the log cabin block first round

Use a 3.1/2″ white square for the central square.  This actually won’t finish up in the middle of the block because the logs are different widths, but it’s the starting point of the block.

Beneath that sew a 3.1/2″ dark purple strip.  On the right place a 5.1/2″ dark purple strip.  Across the top place a 5.1/2″ light green strip, followed by a 6.1/2″ light green strip on the left.

As you can see, the logs are all being sewn to the square in an anti-clockwise direction.  In other log cabins they may be sewn clockwise, but the important thing is to stick to one direction for each round of logs.

Second round of logs

Second round of logs

Second round of logs

Use the medium purple and green in this round.  Begin with the 6.1/2″ medium purple. Follow this with the 8.1/2″ medium purple.  Sew the 8.1/2″ medium green across the top.  Finish with the 9.1/2″ medium green on the left side.

Incidentally, you need to press this block at all stages, before you add another log.  Doing this increases the accuracy of the seams.  Always press the seam allowances away from the central square.

Third round of logs

Third round of logs

Third round of logs

Finally, make the third round of logs with the light purple and dark green strips.

Each block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage.  Make twelve of them.

The alternate blocks

Make panels of strips

Make panels of strips

I had intended to make the stripey blocks as individual blocks.  Then I realised that this would be an enormous waste of time, so I am using the striped sections in panels.

Make the panels using all the fabrics cut in the same widths as they are used in the log cabin blocks.  So that’s 2.1/2″ strips of purple, 1.1/2″ strips of green and a 3.1/2″ white strip.

Assemble the log cabin cross quilt

Make row 1 with a 24.1/2″ striped panel.  Place this with the purple at the top as shown in the photo above.

Rows 2 and 4

Rows 2 and 4

In rows 2 and 4, place two log cabin blocks so that the dark green runs across the top of the pair.

Rows 3 and 5

Rows 3 and 5

Rotate the blocks for rows 3 and 5 so that the dark green runs across the bottom of the pair of blocks.

Finally for row 6 place a 24.1/2″ striped panel.  This time place the green at the top of the panel.

Sew the pairs of log cabin blocks together and then sew the rows to each other.

The sides of the quilt

The sides of the quilt

The sides of the quilt

For the sides of the quilt make up two 48.1/2″ lengths of the striped panel.  Sew a log cabin block to each end of these panels.  In the photo the middle section is folded up purely so that I can show you the blocks at each end.  Rotate the log cabin blocks so that the dark green forms the outer corners of the quilt.

Sew one panel to each side of the quilt.  The panel shown forms the right hand side of the quilt.  Place the other panel the other way up for the left hand side of the quilt.  That way you keep the dark green on the outside of the quilt.

Quilt border

Quilt border

Add the quilt border

Finally make up four 2.1/2″ strips of light green for the border.  Two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the log cabin cross quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Cushions for labels

Cushions for labels

I mentioned recently that I had been to a National Trust property called Packwood House.  I didn’t have the space at the time to show you a really neat idea that they used for labels.  Usually you see printed labels on stands as you move around these properties.  However at this property they had the information printed on cushions.  I thought that was a lovely touch!

Bargello chairs

Bargello chairs

They also had some gorgeous chairs which were very similar to the Bargello chairs on display in Florence – only in much brighter colours.

It was a real treat to see them as well as some tapestries that were centuries old.

 

Havana Cathedral Quilt – Free Pattern

Havana Cathedral quilt

Havana Cathedral quilt

The Havana Cathedral quilt is based on a gorgeous stained glass window that I saw in the Cathedral when I was in Cuba recently.  I had intended to make a wall hanging, but somehow I’ve ended up with a queen size quilt pattern!  Each block is easy to make and they are big blocks so the quilt goes together quite quickly.  It’s also rectangular and would fit a queen size bed, so it ticks a lot of boxes.

The original stained glass window

The original stained glass window

Within the quilt I have used three blocks which are 18″ by 24″ finished size and six blocks which are 24″ squares.  The fabric requirements are 2 yards each of dark blue and red, 1.3/4 yards of light blue, 3/4 yard of white and 1/2 yard of medium blue.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the Havana Cathedral quilt

Completed Havana cathedral quilt block

Completed Havana cathedral quilt block

12.7/8″ squares:  twelve light blue, six red, six dark blue

4.3/4″ squares:  twelve medium blue

3.1/2″ squares:  twelve dark blue, twelve white

3.7/8″ squares:  eighteen each in dark blue and red, twelve each in light blue and red, six each in red and white.  These are for the half square triangles.  In addition you will need six dark blue, six white and twelve red squares for the diamond in a square blocks.

For the borders you will need to cut seven strips across the width of fabric in each of 2.1/2″ red, 1.1/2″ white and 2.1/2″ dark blue.

Make half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

Half square triangle units

You need to make half square triangles with some, but not all of the 3.7/8″ squares.  Use those squares listed in pairs above.

Place a red square right sides together  with either a light blue or a dark blue square.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line. Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  These are now 3.1/2″ squares.

Place triangles around the square

Place triangles around the square

Make diamond in square units

Cut the remaining 3.7/8″ squares along one diagonal to create two triangles from each square (shown in the top right of the photo).

Lay down a 4.3/4″ medium blue square and place a dark blue and a white triangle on two opposite edges, with two red triangles on the other two opposite edge.

Trim the edges

Trim the edges

Sew the dark blue and white triangles to the edges of the square first.

Press them open and then sew the two red triangles to the square.  When you press these open you’ll see that you have created a square with a medium blue diamond in the middle.  Trim the middle of each edge where the triangle tips stick out.  This is now a 6.1/2″ square.

Top half of the block

Top half of the block

Make the Havana Cathedral quilt block

This block is made of eight rows of six squares each – that’s counting the diamond in square units as equivalent to four squares.

I’ve shown the top four rows first.  In each corner place a dark blue square with a dark blue/red half square triangle beneath it.  In the middle place two diamond in a square units.  Lay them with the red triangles in the top middle to create a larger red triangle pointing downwards.

The third and fourth rows are made with dark blue/red half square triangles at each end and a light blue/red half square triangle inside them.  In the third row there are two white squares in the middle.   For the fourth row place two red/white half square triangles in the middle.

Lower half of the block

Lower half of the block

The lower half of the block is very similar.  Rows five and six are almost the same as rows three and four.  Just check which way to place the half square triangles.

Rows seven and eight are almost the same as rows one and two.  Again it is just the direction of the triangles that has changed.

Partially sewn block

Partially sewn block

Sew the squares together across each row.  You need to make a double row at the top and bottom of the block.

Sew the dark blue square and red/dark blue half square triangles together first.  Then you can sew them to the diamond in a square units.

Sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  It measures 18.1/2″ by 24.1/2″ at the moment.  You need to make three of these.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the alternate block

This is a huge block, but I felt that it gave the right feel to the surrounding area of the Havana Cathedral blocks.  It’s also dead easy to make!

Use the 12.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units. Use exactly the same method as above for the smaller half square triangle units.

Place two red/light blue half square triangles with two red/dark blue half square triangles as shown.  This makes one large red triangle, one large dark blue triangle and two large light blue triangles.  Sew them together in pairs and then sew the pairs together to create the block.  This is now a 24.1/2″ square and you need to make six of them.

As an aside, I had originally intended to make these blocks 18″ by 24″, same as the other blocks.  However the triangles were very odd sizes for this, so I opted for simplicity and made the blocks as  squares instead.

Rows 1 and 3

Rows 1 and 3

Assemble the Havana Cathedral quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  Place the Havana Cathedral block in the middle of each row.

In rows 1 and 3 place the alternate blocks on either side with the dark blue triangle on the inside.

Row 2

Row 2

For row 2 the alternate blocks are rotated so that the light blue triangles lie on the inside.

On the left hand side the red triangle lies at the top while on the right hand side the blue triangle lies at the top.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Three quilt borders

Three quilt borders

Add the quilt border

I’ve used three borders to frame the quilt.  Make the first border with 2.1/2″ red strips.  Cut two lengths of 66.1/2″ for the top and bottom together with two lengths of 76.1/2″ for the sides.

The second border is made with 1.1/2″ strips of white fabric.  Two lengths of 70,1.2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 78.1/2″ for the sides.

Finally make the third border with 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue.  Two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 82.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Havana Cathedral quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Iris flowers

Iris flowers

One of the colour combinations that I love in quilts is purple and green.  Yesterday I visited a National Trust property with a wonderful garden.  These iris flowers were a gorgeous deep purple – just as beautiful as the fantastic William Morris designs within the property.

Wightwick Manor

Wightwick Manor

The house itself was Wightwick Manor which is a celebration of the Arts and Crafts Movement – absolutely beautiful both inside and outside.

 

Bright Jewel Quilt – Free Pattern

Bright jewel quilt

Bright jewel quilt

I’ve made the Bright Jewel quilt using my variation on the quilt block of that name, together with an alternative block using more red to create that red diamond frame around the middle.

The quilt measures 49″ square and I have used 1 yard of red, 3/4 yard each of light blue and white, 1/2 yard of medium blue (turquoise actually) and 1/4 yard of dark blue fabric.  I have used nine blocks which are all 15″ square finished size.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the bright jewel quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  thirty two white, seventeen red

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty six each in turquoise and white, eighteen each in red and dark blue

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  thirty six light blue

For the border you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips of red across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.

Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where the triangle tips stick out.

Make the four patch units

Make the four patch units

Make the four patch units

There are four 4-patch units in each block.  Place a red/dark blue half square triangle diagonally opposite a white square.  Add two turquoise/white half square triangles diagonally opposite each other.

Note that the red triangle is on the outside of the four patch unit and the two turquoise triangles are also on the outside.  The white square with two white triangles forms a rosebud shape.   Make twenty of these for the bright jewel quilt block and eight more for the alternate block.

Bright jewel quilt block layout

Bright jewel quilt block layout

Make the bright jewel quilt block

Place a four patch unit in each corner of the block.  Rotate them so that the red triangle is always on the outside, forming the corners of the block.

Lay a light blue rectangle between each pair of four patch units with a red square in the middle of the block.

Partially sewn block

Partially sewn block

Sew the squares together within each four patch unit first.  Then sew the pieces together across each of the three rows.  Finally sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

The block is now 15.1/2″ square and you need to make five.

Alternate block layout

Alternate block layout

Make the alternate block

The alternate block is almost the same as the first block.  I have made one change only and that is to exchange two of the white squares for red squares.

Basically two of the four patch units are the same as for the bright jewel block and two of them have a red square instead of a white square.

Sew the squares together in the same way as above.  The block now measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  In row one place a bright jewel block at each end with an alternate block in the middle.

Place the alternate block so that the extra red squares are towards the bottom of the block.

Row two

Row two

In row two the alternate blocks are at each end with a jewel block in the middle.

Notice that the extra red squares are towards the right of the first block and towards the left of the third block.

Row three

Row three

For row three the blocks are placed so that there’s an alternate block in the middle with a jewel block on either side of it.  This time the extra red squares are towards the top of the block.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of red for the border.  I did this so that the border would blend into the red triangles around the edges.  You’ll need two lengths of 45.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 49.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the bright jewel quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Revolution square, Havana

Revolution square, Havana

As you may know, I went on my travels again last week.  My daughter and I went to Cuba.  We stayed a few days in Havana and a few days on Varadero by the beach.  We had the most wonderful time.  Havana was absolutely fascinating.  Samantha has an app on her phone that could tell her how far she walked.  Apparently on the first day we walked over 14 km.  No wonder we felt exhausted.

Havana Cathedral

Havana Cathedral

The Cathedral was truly beautiful and I found several quilt ideas in there – the stained glass windows were very unusual.

In Varadero the sea was so warm that it was a real pleasure to go swimming and snorkelling every day – such a change from the rather chilly waters around the UK!

Silver Lanes Quilt – Free Pattern

Silver Lanes quilt

Silver Lanes quilt

The Silver Lanes quilt block has such a lovely layout that I didn’t feel that it needed an alternate block.  I’ve made this quilt using just nine blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.  Each block contains purple, white and three shades of blue which gives the quilt plenty of interest.

The quilt measures 58″ square and I needed 1 yard each of white, dark blue and purple fabric, with 3/4 yard each of medium blue and light blue fabrics.  I don’t have any of that fabric left over, so there’s no special discount quilt kit this week.

If you wanted to make a rectangular quilt you could make twelve blocks (four rows of three) and this would give you a quilt 58″ wide by 76″ long.




Completed silver lanes quilt block

Completed silver lanes quilt block

Cutting requirements for the silver lanes quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  thirty six white, thirty six light blue, seventy two medium blue

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty six each in light blue and dark blue, thirty six each in dark blue and white, eighteen each in purple and white

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of purple fabric across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Layout of the central area

Layout of the central area

Make the silver lanes quilt block

I’ve shown the central area of the block first.  Place four purple/white half square triangles in the middle to make a pinwheel.

Around this pinwheel place two medium blue squares on each edge with a light blue square in each corner.

Silver lanes quilt block layout

Silver lanes quilt block layout

Now you can add the outer frame.  Place a white square in each corner of the block.  On either side of each corner, place a light blue/dark blue half square triangle.  These two light blue triangles together with the light blue square already in place make a rosebud shape which is repeated around each corner of the block.

In the middle of each edge of the block, lay two dark blue/white half square triangles.  Place these so that the two white triangles together form a larger white triangle pointing towards the middle.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  This now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make nine blocks altogether.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Assemble the silver lanes quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  For the border you will need 2.1/2″ strips of purple fabric:  two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt and two lengths of 58.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the silver lanes quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Mayflower steps

Mayflower steps

When I visited Torquay the week before last, I also spent a day in Plymouth, further along the coast.  What a lot of history there is in that city!  Along the harbour front there is an area called the Mayflower Steps.  This is where the Mayflower set off in 1620 taking the Pilgrim Fathers to settle in America.  You can’t see them in the photo, but the flags of both the UK and the USA fly beside the steps.

Eddystone Lighthouse

Eddystone Lighthouse

A little further along the coast and up a hill known as the Hoe I found a small lighthouse – actually too far inland to be useful.

I was fascinated to find that it’s known as Smeaton’s Tower and is in fact the top half of the Eddystone Lighthouse.

Eddystone light quilt block

Eddystone light quilt block

It used to function as a lighthouse but the top half was transported stone by stone to Plymouth where it was rebuilt.

When I made the Eddystone light quilt block I just assumed that it came from America, when in fact the lighthouse was here on the south coast all along!

Thanks for visiting my website.  For various reasons there will not be a quilt pattern next Friday.

 

Nosegay Quilt – Free Pattern

Nosegay quilt

Nosegay quilt

The Nosegay quilt may look complicated, but each block is easy to make.  I was trying to capture the magic of early summer, nosegays at weddings and all that sort of thing.

The quilt measures 64″ square, using sixteen blocks which are 15″ square finished size.

I have used 1/2 yard of lilac, 1.1/4 yards of purple, 1.1/2 yards of green and 2 yards of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed nosegay quilt block

Completed nosegay quilt block

Fabric requirements for the Nosegay quilt

11.1/4″ by 6.1/4″ rectangles:  sixteen white, sixteen purple

8″ by 3″ rectangles:  sixteen white

10.1/2″ by 3″ rectangles:  sixteen white

5.7/8″ squares:  sixteen purple, sixteen white

3″ squares:  eighty green, sixty four lilac

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of green across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use the 5.7/8 ” squares to make half square triangles.  Place a purple and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.

These are now 5.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the purple and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.  You need to make sixteen of them.

Make the nine patch units

Make the nine patch units

Make the nine patch units

These are dead simple – just 3″squares sewn together in rows of three.  Place green squares in the corners and the middle, with lilac squares in the other positions.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

These now measure 8″ square and you need to make sixteen of them.

Cut the rectangles along one diagonal

Cut the rectangles along one diagonal

Make the half rectangle triangles

Cut each 11.1/4″ by 6.1/4″ rectangle in half along one diagonal, making two triangles from each rectangle.

Place one purple triangle with one white triangle to re form a rectangle.

Sew the triangles together

Sew the triangles together

Sew the two triangles together along the diagonal seam.  Do be careful at this stage:  it’s very easy to sew these together incorrectly and end up with a weird shape that definitely isn’t a rectangle!

Mirror image rectangles

Mirror image rectangles

Note that you will end up with two different rectangles – they are mirror images of each other.  Sometimes this causes a problem, but for the nosegay quilt block you will need both versions of the rectangle.

These will be slightly larger than you require.  Trim them to 10.1/2″ by 5.1/2″.  I have suggested this to give your triangles better points – yes, mine do sometimes come out different sizes!  You will need sixteen of each version of the rectangle (thirty two in total).

Nosegay quilt block layout

Nosegay quilt block layout

Assemble the nosegay quilt block

Lay the pieces out as shown in the photo.  The nine patch unit is in the middle with an 8″ white rectangle above it and a 10.1/2″ white rectangle to the right of it.  Place the half square triangle in the bottom left corner with the white on the outside.

The half rectangle triangles take the remaining places – one of each kind.  Check the photo to make sure that you have the triangles placed correctly.

Make two columns

Make two columns

Sew the 8″ white rectangle to the nine patch unit and then sew the 10.1/2″ rectangle to the side.  Now sew the half rectangle triangle to the bottom to form one column.

On the left hand side, sew the half rectangle triangle to the half square triangle to make a second column.  Sew the columns to each other to complete the quilt block.

The block should measure 15.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make sixteen of them.

Rows 1 and 2

Rows 1 and 2

Finish the quilt top

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  Rows 1 and 2 are the same as each other.  Note the position of the half square triangle in order to get the rotation of the blocks correct.  In the first two blocks the half square triangle is on the top left of the block.  In the second two blocks, the half square triangle is on the top right.

Rows 3 and 4

Rows 3 and 4

Rows 3 and 4 are also the same as each other.  The half square triangles are in the bottom left position for the first two blocks.  They are in the bottom right position for the remaining two blocks.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the border

I have used 2.1/2″ strips of green fabric for the border.  You’ll need two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt, with two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the nosegay quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

 

Torre Abbey ruins

Torre Abbey ruins

Last week I visited Torquay on the south coast to see a quilt exhibition at Torre Abbey Historic House and Gardens.  The quilts were supplied by the Quilter’s Guild.

The gardens and greenhouses of the Abbey were absolutely beautiful.

Flame Lily

Flame Lily

In one of the greenhouses I found a flame lily – this is the national flower of Zimbabwe and when I was a child we used to pick them for the house at Christmas time.  I don’t think that I have seen one growing for over 40 years, so I was jumping with excitement when I saw this one.  What an idiot I must have looked!

Ornament Quilt – Free Pattern

Ornament quilt

Ornament quilt

The idea for the Ornament quilt came from one of Owen Jones designs – but it looks very different now from the original design.  I have designed two different quilt blocks and alternated them across the rows.

The blocks are both very simple, with hardly any half square triangles to make.

The quilt measures 64″ square, using sixteen blocks which are all 15″ square finished size.  I needed 1.3/4 yards of white with 1.1/2 yards each of red and blue fabrics.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the ornament quilt

4.3/4″ squares:  eight blue

3.7/8″ squares:  sixteen red, eight each in blue and white

3.1/2″ squares:  sixteen blue

6.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  sixteen blue

9.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  sixteen blue

9,1.2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  thirty two white

5″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen white, sixteen blue

9.1/2″ by 5″ rectangles:  sixteen red

3.1/2″ by 8″ rectangles:  sixteen blue, sixteen white

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of red across the width of fabric.

First block layout

First block layout

Make the first block

Lay the patchwork pieces out in four rows as shown.  Place a red 5.1/2″ by 9.1/2″ rectangle in the top and bottom rows, with a 3.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ blue or white rectangle on either side.  In the top row the white is on the left while in the bottom row the white is on the right.

Make the two middle rows with 3.1/2″ by 8″ blue and white rectangles side by side.  In the second row place the white on the left but in the third row place the white on the right.

Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows together to complete the block.  It now measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make eight of these.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

You just need two half square triangles for each of the second blocks.

Place a 3.7/8″ blue and white square with right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Sew a triangle to each edge of the square

Sew a triangle to each edge of the square

Make the diamond in a square

The central area of this block is a diamond in a square.  Cut the 3.7/8″ red squares along one diagonal to make two triangles from each square.  Place one triangle on each edge of the blue 4.3/4″ square.

Sew the top and bottom triangles to the square and then press them open with the seam allowances towards the red triangle.

Sew the triangles on 2 at a time

Sew the triangles on 2 at a time

Now you can sew the triangles to the sides of the blue square.  Press these open and you will have a blue diamond in a red square.

Note the triangle tips sticking out in the middle of each edge – trim these to reduce bulk in the seams.

Central area of second block

Central area of second block

Make the second block

Place the diamond in a square in the middle of the second block.  Sew a 2″ by 6.1/2″ blue rectangle to the top and bottom and sew 2″ by 9.1/2″ blue rectangle to either side.

Second block layout

Second block layout

For the next frame, sew a 3.1/2″ by 8″ white rectangle to the top and bottom of the block.  Make a column on the left with a 3.1/2″ blue square, another 3.1/2″ by 8″ white rectangle and a blue/white half square triangle at the bottom of the column.

On the right hand side, make a similar column but with the triangle at the top and the square at the bottom of the column.

Sew the three columns to each other to complete the block.  This now measures 15.1/2″ squares and you need to make eight of these.

Rows 1 and 3

Rows 1 and 3

Assemble the ornament quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four, alternating them across each row.

In rows one and three, begin with a diamond in a square block and then alternate across the rows.  Note that the diamond in a square blocks are placed with a blue square on top left of the block, while the stripey blocks are placed with the red rectangles vertical.

Rows 2 and 4

Rows 2 and 4

For rows two and four begin with a stripey block and then alternate the blocks across the rows.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Ornament quilt border

For the border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the ornament quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Nantes mechanical elephant

Nantes mechanical elephant

Last weekend I visited Nantes in France for their quilt show.  What a wonderful weekend that was!  I have written about both the quilt show and the amazing mechanical elephant in a separate article.  You can read all about them here.

I’ve also included a short video of the elephant in action – he’s so realistic that he even blinks his eyes!

Nine Patch Jelly Roll Quilt Pattern

Nine patch jelly roll quilt

Nine patch jelly roll quilt

For this nine patch jelly roll quilt I wanted to make the entire quilt using just one jelly roll.  I nearly succeeded, only needing to add two strips of fabric from stash for the final border.  However, I know that jelly rolls do vary in the number of strips of fabric, so you may be able to complete this quilt with just the jelly roll.

There are lots of jelly roll quilt patterns, but I find that very often they require a jelly roll plus a lot of extra fabric.  The target that I set myself here was to use one jelly roll only.




Computer image to show the quilt design

Computer image to show the quilt design

If you haven’t come across jelly rolls before, they are rolls of fabric cut to 2.1/2″ wide and the strips all come from one fabric manufacturer so they usually all go together well.  It’s a great way of getting a wide variety of fabric without having to buy individual quantities of each fabric.  Although the strips are always the same width, the number of strips within a jelly roll can vary.

Because the fabrics vary so much, I have included a computer image of the quilt here using just a few colours so that you can see the quilt design more clearly.

Sort the fabric strips

Sort the fabric strips

Preparing the fabric

I began by sorting the strips into broadly dark, medium and light strips.  In fact I used the medium strips as either dark or light depending on what I needed and I also used them for the borders.

Make the stripey block

Make the stripey block

Make the stripey block

Sew together three strips of fabric in dark, light, dark colours.  This made a panel 6.1/2″ wide by the length of the strips.  Cut this at 6.1/2″ intervals to make a simple 6.1/2″ square.  This is the stripey block.  You should get six of these from each panel.  I found that I could also cut one 2.1/2″ strip from each panel.

Make the nine patch quilt block

Make the nine patch quilt block

Making the nine patch quilt block

For this block I needed panels of dark, light, dark fabric as above, but also some light, dark, light panels of fabric.  Cut these at 2.1/2″ intervals to make rectangles of fabric 2.1/2″ wide by 6.1/2″ long.

Place two dark, light, dark strips of fabric with a light, dark, light strip between them as shown in the top right of the photo.  Sew these three strips together to make the nine patch jelly roll quilt block.

Completed blocks

Completed blocks

The completed blocks

Both these quilt blocks are 6.1/2″ square at this stage.  You need to make twenty four of the stripey blocks and thirty nine of the nine patch jelly roll quilt blocks.

In order to do this, I needed to make nine panels of dark, light, dark fabric together with three panels of light, dark, light fabrics.

First three rows of the nine patch jelly roll quilt

Sew the blocks together in nine rows of seven blocks.

First three rows

First three rows

The first row is made with a stripey block at each end and five nine patch blocks between them.  Note that the left hand stripey block is placed with the stripes horizontal while the other stripey block has the stripes vertical.

In the second row the blocks are reversed, with a nine patch block at each end and five stripey blocks between them.  Note that the stripey blocks alternate between horizontal and vertical placements.

For the third row place a three nine patch blocks in the middle with a vertical stripey block either side of them and a nine patch block at each end.

Central area

Central area

Central area of the quilt

The next four rows are very similar to each other.  Each row has three nine patch blocks in the middle and a nine patch block at each end.  Place the stripey blocks in the second and sixth places of each row.

The stripey blocks alternate down the column, beginning with a horizontal block, then vertical beneath it and so on.  This is the only difference between the rows.

Last two rows

Last two rows

Final two rows of the nine patch jelly roll quilt

The last two rows are similar to the first two rows.  For row eight place a nine patch block at each end with five stripey blocks between them.  In row nine place a stripey block at each end with five nine patch blocks between them.  Check whether the stripey blocks are horizontal or vertical.  My intention with the corner blocks was to have them form a sort of circle around the quilt – that’s why they are placed both horizontally and vertically.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows together.  At this stage the quilt top measures 42.1/2″ by 54.1/2″.

Leftover fabric

Leftover fabric

Make the top and bottom quilt borders

Now my target was to use up the remainder of the jelly roll strips for the borders.  I had six complete strips of fabric and some 6.1/2″ strips left.  Note that you may have a different amount left over as jelly rolls do vary.

Top and bottom borders

Top and bottom borders

I decided to make three borders for the top and bottom of the quilt.

For the first border I used a strip of light fabric.  In the second border I used seven of the 6.1/2″ strips – that’s twenty one squares altogether.

I made the third border with a strip of medium fabric.  Sew the three strips together and sew one to the top and one to the bottom of the quilt.

Add the side borders

Add the side borders

Make the side borders

By now I was really running short of fabric strips!  I had one light strip left which I didn’t want to use for these borders.  I cut two medium 2.1/2″ strips from my stash and used them with the remaining medium strip and a few individual squares of medium fabric to make two 66.1/2″ lengths for the sides.

That completes the nine patch jelly roll quilt.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Peckforton Castle

Pckforton Castle

My travels last week took me into Staffordshire to somewhere called Peckforton Castle.  What a treat that was!  It’s a genuine castle, although not as old as many of our castles.  It was built in the mid 19th century by a railway magnate for his family.  Outside it looks centuries old but inside there are all mod cons – and two lovely restaurants.

 

Friendship Quilt – Free Pattern

Friendship quilt

Friendship quilt

The Friendship quilt block has always been one of my favourites.  I have changed the colours slightly to use it in this quilt and teamed it with a large half square triangle for the alternate block.

The quilt measures 58″ square and I have used nine blocks which are 18″ square finished size.  I have used 1/2 yard of white, 3/4 yard of yellow, 1.1/4 yards of red and 2.1/4 yards of black fabric.  The black is rather a pretty Ebor fabric with vibrant coloured pins so I have used bright fabrics to match that colouring.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the friendship quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  twenty black, twenty yellow, forty white

3.7/8″ squares:  forty black, forty yellow

6.1/2″ squares:  five red

18.7/8″ squares:  two black, two red

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of black across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles.  Place a black and a yellow square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.12″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the black and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Central area

Central area

Make the friendship quilt block

The central area of this block is very simple.  Begin with a 6.1/2″ red square.  On each edge of this square place two half square triangles.  Place each pair so that the two black triangles together form a larger black triangle pointing towards the red square.  Now add a yellow square in each corner.

Friendship quilt block layout

Friendship quilt block layout

Lay out the outer frame next.  Outside each pair of half square triangles place another pair of half square triangles.  This time place them so that the two yellow triangles together form a larger yellow triangle pointing towards the red square.  You can see that the black now forms a V shape on each edge of the square.  Place a white square on either side of the half square triangles.  Add a black square in each corner.

Partially sewn block

Partially sewn block

Sewing the friendship quilt block

The top two and bottom two rows are simple to sew together:  just sew the squares across the rows.

For the middle section you need to sew the half square triangles together vertically first.  Then you can sew the pairs together to form a four patch unit either side of the red square.  Now you can sew the pieces together across this middle section.

Sew the rows together to complete the block.  You need to make five of these.

Sew the triangles together

Sew the triangles together

Alternate quilt block

Fold the 18.7/8″ squares in half along one diagonal.  Press to create a fold line and then cut along the line to make two triangles from each square.

Sew a black and a red triangle together along the longest edge to make a large half square triangle block.  Make four of these.

Assemble the Friendship quilt

Rows one and three

Rows one and three

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.

Lay the blocks out for rows one and three with a friendship block in the middle and a half square triangle on each side of it.  Note that the half square triangle is placed so that the black is beside the friendship block, with the red triangle on the outside, forming the corner of the quilt.

For row two simply sew together three friendship quilt blocks in a row.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

For the border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of black fabric to frame the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 58.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Friendship quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

 

Winners' enclosure

Winners’ enclosure

Last week I visited the British Stitch and Quilt show at Uttoxeter Racecourse.  I just had to show you this delightful topiary horse and jockey in the Winners’ Enclosure.  Isn’t it clever!  (It’s on the right towards the back of the photo).

Best in show

Best in show

The quilts were of course as gorgeous as ever.  This beauty was judged best in show, and deservedly so.

Teapot quilt

Teapot quilt

This one took my fancy because I drink tea by the gallon so the sight of all these different teapots made me chuckle.

It’s always great seeing the work of other quilters, isn’t it?

Oh Susannah Quilt Pattern

Oh Susannah quilt

Oh Susannah quilt

The Oh Susannah quilt block is a simple block that comes in several different versions.  I began with a basic version and then played around with the colours a little to add to the design. I wanted to add a little extra interest to the quilt.

You may be pleased to hear that there aren’t many half square triangles in this quilt.

The quilt measures 52″ square, using sixteen 12″ square finished size blocks.  I needed 1/2 yard of green, 3/4 yard of white, 1 yard of orange and 1.1/4 yards of blue fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.

I am holding a spring sale this week giving a 15% discount on all orders over £6 – full details at the bottom of the page.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the Oh Susannah quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  fifty six white, forty green, sixty four blue

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty two blue, thirty two orange

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen blue

For the border you will need to cut five 2.1/2″ orange strips across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a blue and an orange square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.  These are now 3.1/2″ squares.

Oh Susannah quilt block layout

Oh Susannah quilt block layout

Make the basic Oh Susannah quilt block

Lay the squares out in four rows of four.

Place four half square triangles in the middle with the orange triangles together forming a diamond shape.  Lay white squares in three of the corners with a green square in the fourth corner.  Place a blue rectangle above and below the central diamond, with two blue squares on each side of it.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  You need to make eight of these.

Alternate block layout

Alternate block layout

Alternate Oh Susannah quilt block

In this version of the block I have added even more green squares.  Lay the squares out once again in four rows of four.  The central area is the same as in the block above, but there is a green square on each edge of the block.

If you follow the outer frame round clockwise from the top left hand corner, you’ll see that the squares follow the sequence white, blue, green on each edge.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  Make eight of these.

Rows one and three

Rows one and three

Assemble the Oh Susannah quilt

Lay the squares out in four rows of four.  For rows one and three alternate the blocks across the row, beginning with the basic block.

Rows two and four

Rows two and four

For rows two and four alternate the blocks again, this time beginning with the alternate block.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of orange fabric for the quilt border.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Oh Susannah quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Spring blossom

Spring blossom

We’ve been enjoying wonderful weather here in Birmingham this week – lots of lovely sunshine to bring out gorgeous displays of spring blossom.

I decided that it’s a good time to hold my spring sale, so there’s a 15% discount on everything in the shop.  No coupon code required – the discount will be applied automatically at checkout on all orders over £6.  To take a look at some of the lovely fabrics, click here.

 

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