Monkey Wrench Star Quilt Pattern

Monkey Wrench star quilt pattern

Monkey Wrench star quilt pattern

For the Monkey Wrench star quilt pattern I have used only one block.  I have created the stars through variations in the colour.  Altogether I’ve used six blocks which are 16″ square finished size and three borders.  I’m rather pleased with this pattern.

I’ve made each block with a red and white four patch unit in the middle. Then I’ve added a series of triangles attached to the edges of the squares to build up the blocks.

The quilt measures 42″ by 58″.  I have used 3/4 yard each of white and dark blue with 1/2 yard each of light blue, medium blue, red and yellow.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the monkey wrench star quilt pattern

3.3/8″ squares:  twelve red, twelve white

4.7/8″ squares:  twelve light blue

8.7/8″ squares:  eight white, two medium blue, two dark blue

9.1/4″ squares:  four yellow, two dark blue, one medium blue

For the borders cut five 2.1/2″ red strips, five 1.1/2″ yellow strips and five 2.1/2″ dark blue strips, all cut across the width of fabric.

Make the 4 patch units

Make the 4 patch units

Make the four patch units

Sew a 3,3.8″ strip of red and of white together along the length.  Then cut this panel at 3.3/8″ intervals to make rectangles.  Each rectangle contains one white and one red square.  Sew these together in pairs with the colours diagonally opposite each other.  You can see this in the top right of the photo.

Cut squares along one diagonal

Cut squares along one diagonal

Add the first triangles

Cut the light blue 4.7/8″ squares along one diagonal to form two triangles from each square.

Add triangles to the square

Add triangles to the square

Place one triangle on each edge of the four patch unit.  Sew two opposite triangles to the 4 patch unit first.  Press these two triangles open and then add the two remaining triangles.

The progression shown in the photo runs from top left to bottom left, then top right followed by bottom right.  As you can see, you end up with a diamond in a square.

At this stage the squares measure 8.1/2″ square.  Make six of them all the same.  The blocks all contain this central area and then the colours begin to vary in the following frames.  For this reason, I’ve shown the blocks from now on in each row, two at a time.  I found that this was the simplest way to be sure that I had the right colours in the right block.

Cut along both diagonals

Cut along both diagonals

Blocks for row one – first frame

Cut the yellow, medium blue and dark blue 9.1/4″ squares along both diagonals to make four triangles from each square.

Row one next frame

Row one next frame

In the lefthand block of row one, place three yellow and one dark blue triangle on the edges of the central square.  Place the same triangles in the second block, but note that they are positioned differently.  The central squares are placed so that the red squares run vertically within the block.  Now sew the triangles to the central squares two at a time.  Press the first triangles open and then add the second pair of triangles.  At this stage the blocks should measure fractionally under 12″ square.

Final frame for row one

Final frame for row one

Row one – final frame

For the outer frame of these blocks, cut the 8.7/8″ white, medium blue and dark blue squares along one diagonal only to make two triangles per square. On both blocks place three white and one dark blue triangle on the edges of the square.  Notice that the placement is different on each block – the dark blue triangles together form a larger dark blue triangle at the base of the blocks.

As before, sew these triangles on two at a time, pressing before adding the second two triangles.

That completes the two blocks for row one.  They should now measure 16.1/2″ square.  I find it best to sew these two blocks together straight away to avoid any confusion with the next blocks that you make.

Row two next frame

Row two next frame

Row two

Make the next two blocks for row two in the same way, but with different colour placements.  This time each block has two yellow, one medium blue and one dark blue triangle on the edges of the central square.

Row two outer frame

Row two outer frame

Make the outer frame with two white, one dark blue and one medium blue triangle for each block.

Place the white triangles on the sides with the dark blue at the top and the medium blue at the bottom of the block.  Again the blues form larger triangles – dark blue at the top and medium blue at the bottom.

Sew rows one and two together

Sew rows one and two together

Once again sew the blocks to each other.  When you sew these two rows together you can see the stars beginning to form.  I think that you can see now why I chose to sew the rows together as I went.  It would have been terribly easy to muddle the blocks – well, it would for me anyway!

Row three next frame

Row three next frame

Row three

Make the next frame for the blocks for the third row with three yellow and one medium blue triangle on each block.

Row three outer frame

Row three outer frame

For the outer frame place three white and one medium blue triangles on the edges of the squares.  The medium blue together form a larger medium blue triangle and the white lies on the sides and the base of the row.  As ever, sew the triangles on two at a time, then press and add the remaining two triangles.

Sew the blocks to each other and then sew them to rows one and two.

At this stage the monkey wrench star quilt top measures 32.1/2″ by 48.1/2″.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

I’ve used three borders to give a good strong frame to the quilt.  For the first border use 2.1/2″ strips of red.  You need to cut two lengths of 32.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the sides.

Make the second border with 1.1/2″ strips of yellow:  two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the sides.

Finally use 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue for the third border.  You need two lengths of 38.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 58.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the monkey wrench star quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Athletics World Championships

Athletics World Championships

Thank you so much for all the kind wishes and comments that you sent me last week regarding my hand.  They really did make me feel a huge amount better!  My hand has improved enormously and I’m having the stitches out this afternoon.  I did as I was told and took it easy last week.  I went to stay with my son in London and watched the World Championship Athletics on two evenings.  The first evening it was weather for ducks but still very enjoyable.  The second evening was brilliant weather and a really exciting evening.

 

Double Arrow Quilt Block Pattern

Double Arrow quilt block

Double Arrow quilt block

The double arrow quilt block comes to us from the Kansas City Star company a century ago.  You can of course see the double arrows with green tips in one direction and with white tips in the other direction.

It’s classified as a nine patch block and I have made it here as a rather enormous 24″ square finished size.  In order to make it smaller I would have to reduce the width of the red and white stripes and it starts to get fiddly when you are working with 1.1/2″ strips of fabric.

Cutting requirements for the double arrow quilt block

2.1/2″ by 12.1/2″ strips:  four white, eight red

12.1/2″ squares:  one white

6.7/8″ squares:  two yellow

7.1/4″ squares:  one white, one green




Make the red/white stripes

You may prefer just to cut the 12.1/2″ strips and sew them together in threes.  I cut 2.1/2″ strips of red, white, red and sewed them together along the length.  These I cut at 6.1/2″ intervals to give me the striped panels.

Make the double arrow quilt block

Double arrow quilt block layout

Double arrow quilt block layout

I’m showing you the full layout straight away because this is such a simple block to make.  Begin with the large white square in the middle.  Place a red/white/red panel on each edge of the square.

Form each corner with a yellow triangle formed by cutting a 6.7/8″ square along one diagonal only.  Place these yellow triangles on the outside, forming the corners of the block.

Make the other half of the corner squares with a green and a white triangle formed by cutting 7.1/4″ squares along both diagonals.  Note that these are placed so that the green triangles lie at the ends of the horizontal stripes while the white triangles lie at the ends of the vertical stripes.

Make three rows

Make three rows

Sew the green and white triangles together in pairs.  Add these to the yellow triangles to form squares.

Sew the patchwork pieces together across the rows to form three rows.  Join the rows to each other to complete the double arrow quilt block.

Basic double arrow quilt image

Basic double arrow quilt image

Quilt suggestions

For the basic quilt I have shown nine blocks sewn together in three rows of three. This made quite a pleasing quilt – definitely suitable for a gift to a man.

Alternate quilt suggestion

Alternate quilt suggestion

In the alternative quilt I have just rotated every other blocks.  The yellow/green corner squares then form a much more interesting whirligig type design.  I definitely prefer this option.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Peaceful Evening Quilt Block Pattern

 

The Peaceful Evening quilt block is a very simple block – it was the name that attracted me to it.  I did wonder whether to make it in the pinks and crimsons of a sunset, but then I decided to stick with the traditional shades of green.  I’ve made it here as an 18″ square.

In case you’re wondering, I wrote this pattern before my hand surgery last week!

Cutting requirements for the peaceful evening quilt block

3.7/8″ squares:  eight white, eight dark green

3.1/2″ squares:  four white

6.1/2″ squares:  four bright green




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a white and a green square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the green and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Peaceful evening quilt block layout

Peaceful evening quilt block layout

Assemble the peaceful evening quilt block

The layout for this block is broadly a simple nine patch unit.  Place the 6.1/2″ bright green squares in the middle of the top and bottom rows and at both ends of the middle row.

In each corner place a four patch unit made of one white square and three half square triangle units.  The white squares are always nearest the middle of the block.  The half square triangles are all facing in the same direction as the others within the four patch unit.  Note that they are facing in a new direction in each corner.  Check the photo to be sure of your placement.

For the central square place four half square triangles forming two larger green triangles on the sides and two larger white triangles on the top and bottom.

Sew the four patch units first

Sew the four patch units first

Sew the squares together within each four patch unit first.  Each unit now measures 6.1/2″ squares, so they are the same size as the bright green squares.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Peaceful Evening quilt block.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Old Indian Trail Quilt – Free Pattern

Old Indian trail quilt

Old Indian trail quilt

For the Old Indian Trail quilt I have used two different blocks – the block of the same name and a simple alternating squares block.  I think this is one of those blocks where you can see how it came by its name fairly easily.  I feel that this quilt looks very much like a mosaic.  The quilt uses sixteen blocks, all 15″ square finished size.

The quilt measures 64″ square and I have used 1/2 yard of blue fabric, 1.1/2 yards of red, 1 yard of yellow and 2 yards of white.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the old indian trail quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  forty eight red, forty eight white, twelve yellow

3.7/8″ squares ninety six red, ninety six white

For the alternate block you will need fifty two blue 3.1/2″ squares with forty eight white 3.1/2″ squares.  Some of these can be strip pieced, so don’t cut the squares until you have read the pattern.

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of yellow across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangles

My apologies for the number of half square triangles to those of you who don’t like making them!  Place a red and a white 3.7/8″ square with right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  These are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the red and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Central section of the block

Central section of the block

Make the old indian trail quilt block

The central section of this block is a simple nine patch unit.  Place three red squares along one diagonal with two white squares in the remaining two corners.  Add four half square triangle units around the central square.  Place these so that the red triangles form that large red stripe running down the diagonal.

Old Indian trail quilt block layout

Old Indian trail quilt block layout

Now it’s easy to add the outer frame of the block.  Add two white squares in the top left and bottom right corners.  Place a red and a yellow square in the other two corners.

Between each pair of corners lay three half square triangle units.  Across the top and down the right hand side place the red triangles bottom left of their squares.  Down the left hand side and across the bottom place the red triangles top right of their squares.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Old Indian trail quilt block.  It measures 15.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make twelve of these.

Make pairs of blue and white squares

Make pairs of blue and white squares

Make the alternate block

For the blocks in the corners of the quilt I have used alternating blue and white squares.  Some of these can be made by strip piecing – sew together a blue and a white 3.1/2″ strip along the length.  Cut this panel at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This gives you rectangles 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ which are basically a square each of blue and white.

Alternate block layout

Alternate block layout

These can be used for part of the block, but as you need five squares across each row you will also need individual squares to complete the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  The block now measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make four of these.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the Old Indian trail quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  In the first row place an alternate block at each end.  Place the two Old Indian blocks in the middle of the row so that the red stripes form a peak in the middle.  The yellow squares lie side by side at the bottom of the row.

Row two

Row two

For the second row you need four old indian trail quilt blocks.  Place the first two so that the red stripe runs from bottom left to top right with the yellow squares in the bottom right corner.  Lay the second two blocks so that the red stripe runs from top left to bottom right with the yellow squares in the bottom left corner.

Row three

Row three

Row three is similar to row two, but the red stripes run from top left to bottom right for the first two blocks.  The yellow squares are in the top right position.  Place the second two blocks so that the red stripes run from bottom left to top right with the yellow squares in the top left corner.

Row four

Row four

Finally make row four with an alternate block at each end and two old indian trail quilt blocks.  Place these so that the red stripes form a V and the yellow squares lie together at the top of the row.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Use yellow for the border

Use yellow for the border

Add the Old Indian Trail quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of yellow for the border.  Make two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Old Indian trail quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Dusmaston Hall

Dudmaston Hall

A short while ago I visited Dudmaston Hall, which is another National Trust property.  It was of course absolutely beautiful, but what I enjoyed most about it were the many walks in the parkland around it.

Lake in the grounds

Lake in the grounds

It would have been possible to keep taking different walks for a very long time.

An added bonus was that they had a few rose plants for sale.  One of them, called Olivia I think, had an exquisite perfume.  It reminded me that the David Austen Rose Centre isn’t too far from here.  Definitely time that I paid them a visit!

My poorly hand

My poorly hand

PS.      Since I wrote this pattern I have had an operation to remove a lump from my hand.  I thought that the consultant would stitch it up and slap a sticking plaster on it.  However my hand is quite swollen and I don’t think that I will be able to make a quilt pattern next week.  So the next one will be on Friday 11th August.

Re Upholstered Chair Seat With Piping

Re upholstered chair seat with piping

Re upholstered chair seat with piping

My re upholstered chair seat with piping is intended for a very old Parker Knoll chair that belonged to my parents.  The chair must be forty years old, but the frame is still completely solid.  A friend rubbed down the frame and polished it.  Now it’s my turn to replace the upholstery.

The original design was a plain weave fabric but I felt that I wanted something that really makes a statement.  The Fancy Silk Store in Birmingham came to my rescue with the perfect fabric.




Cutting the fabric

Cut the fabric

Cut the fabric

I had to measure lots of times and really psyche myself up to cut into this gorgeous fabric!  The chair seat is 19″ square and 3″ deep.  I managed to find the right sponge in a foam shop.  They cut it to size for me which was helpful.

I’ve allowed for 1/2″ seams so I have cut two 20″ squares.  They are fussy cut so that the stork motif is in the middle.  In order to join the two squares together I cut three 20″ by 4″ strips of the same fabric for three of the sides.  For the fourth side I cut two strips 20″ by 3″ so that I can add a zip to this edge.

Then I sewed around all the edges of all the pieces with zigzag stitch.

Add the zip

Add the zip

Adding the zip

I placed the two 3″ strips with right sides together and marked a line at 1.3/4″ from the bottom.  You can just see the blue line above the zip in the photo.  Then I made a mark at each end of the zip – that’s the ends of the zipper part, not the actual end of the zip.

I machine sewed from the each mark to the end of the fabric along the line.  Between the two marks I basted by hand.  This is where the zip will lie.  First open the two strips and press the seam open.  Place the zip running along the basted part of the seam, right side towards the seam.  Sew in place.

Join all the strips for the sides

Join all the strips for the sides

Join the edges of the seat cushion

Sew the strip containing the zip end to end with the other three strips to make a complete loop.  One edge of this loop will now be sewn to the top square of the seat cushion and the other edge will be sewn to the bottom square.

Add the piping

Lay the piping between the two fabrics

Lay the piping between the two fabrics

I have used ready made piping rather than making my own.  This comes with a round bit (the candy stripe in the photo) which shows on the right side of the cushion and a small flat strip which is how the piping is sewn into the seams.

Place the piping between the fabrics

Place the piping between the fabrics

So place the fabric square with right side up.  Lay the piping along it with the flat section in line with the fabric edge and the round bit away from the edge towards the middle.  Now lay the first section of the side strip along the same edge with right side down.

You now have a sandwich with the piping between the two fabrics.  I find it safest to pin and baste at this stage to avoid the layers slipping apart while you’re sewing.  Sew the three layers together.  For this stage I always use a zipper foot so that my stitching can be right up to the round bit of the piping.

Sewing along the straight edges is simple.  Sewing around the corners is a bit fiddly.  You need to manipulate the piping so that it always faces in away from the edge.  You also need to stop sewing at the corner so that you can lift the foot and turn the fabrics ready to sew the next edge.  At the same time you need to make sure that you don’t catch the fold of fabric from the edge strip in your stitching.  As I said, it’s fiddly!

Top square sewn to one end of the sides

Top square sewn to one end of the sides

Sew the bottom square to the side edges

Once you have sewn the top square to the side edges you need to repeat the process.  First of all open the zip at least half way so that you can pull the cushion through when you’ve finished the seam.  Sew the bottom square right sides together with the remaining edge of the side strips.  I have used piping in this seam as well so that my chair seat will be reversible.

Complete the re upholstered chair seat

My fabric edges were fraying even though I had zigzagged all the edges before I began sewing.  So I zigzagged the seam allowances again when I had finished the sewing.  Turn the seat cushion right side out through the zip opening.  Add the foam square and your re upholstered chair seat is complete.

I have still to re upholster the rest of the chair, so you’ll be seeing a lot more of this lovely fabric!

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Tippecanoe Quilt – Free Pattern

Tippecanoe quilt

Tippecanoe quilt

The Tippecanoe quilt is a little different from my usual in that you need  to use templates, but it is still a very easy quilt to make.  It seems that the tippecanoe quilt block is named for an 1811 battle in Indiana, America.

I have made the quilt 40″ square – a decent size for a lap quilt pattern.  I used thirty six blocks, all 6″ square finished size.  The fabric requirements are 1/4 yard each of yellow and medium blue, 1/2 yard each of brown and light blue, with 3/4 yard of dark blue.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the Tippecanoe quilt

6.1/2″ squares:  eight light blue, six medium blue and six dark blue

tippecanoe templates:  sixteen of each template

For the border you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue across the width of fabric.

First template

Second template

I apologise for the two templates being separate, but I couldn’t work out how to make them into one document.

Print and cut out the templates

Print and cut out the templates

Cut the patchwork pieces

You can print the templates here and here.  The dark line is the sewing line and the outer dotted line is the cutting line.  I find it best to label each template with the fabric colour as well, just to avoid confusion as you cut the pieces.

Cut the yellow triangles

Cut the yellow triangles

From the yellow fabric cut 7.3/8″ strips of fabric across the width.  Lay the template on the fabric with the base of the triangle in line with the edge of the fabric.  Make two cuts for the sides of the triangle and then you just need to clip the corners.

If you line the base of the triangle with first the bottom and then the top of the fabric you can cut the maximum number of triangles from each strip of fabric.

Cut the large brown triangles

Cut the large brown triangles

For the brown large triangles use 3.5/8″ strips of brown fabric.  If you cut your templates from fabric folded in half, as it comes from the shop, you’ll find that you get both triangles from one template.

Cut the small triangles

Cut the small triangles

Finally for the small brown triangle I used 3.7/8″ strips of brown fabric because that’s what EQ7 suggested.  I think that I could probably have cut them from the same 3.5/8″ strips that I used for the larger triangles.

You need to cut sixteen of each template piece.

Add the small triangle

Add the small triangle

Make the tippecanoe quilt block

Sew the small triangle to the base of the yellow triangle.  Press with the seam alllowance away from the yellow.

Add the side triangles

Add the side triangles

Add the side triangles one at a time, pressing the first triangle open before adding the second.  The progression in the photo goes down the left hand side and then down the right hand side.

Trim the edges to straighten the sides.  The block now measures 6.1/2″ square and you need to make sixteen of these.

Cut 6.1/2″ squares of light, medium and dark blue.  You need eight light blue, six medium blue and six dark blue.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the tippecanoe quilt

Sew the blocks together in six rows of six.  Make the first row with a pair of tippecanoe blocks in the middle and one at each end.  Place light blue squares in the remaining two spaces.  Note the direction of the yellow triangles.  At each end of the row they point towards the corner of the quilt.  In the middle the first yellow triangle points to bottom left while the second one points to top right.

Row two

Row two

Rows two and five are both made with blue squares only.  Make row 2 with light, dark medium, dark, medium, light blue squares.  The layout for row five is slightly different:  light, medium dark, medium, dark light.

The idea is for the medium and dark blue squares to alternate around the central section.

Row three

Row three

Rows three and four contain the same blocks as each other.  In row three place a tippecanoe block at each end and two in the middle.  The yellow triangles point to top left in the first, third and sixth blocks.  In the fourth block it points to top right.  Place a medium blue square in second position and dark blue in the fifth.

Row four

Row four

Last three rows

Lay the same blocks out for the fourth row.  This time the yellow triangles point to bottom right in the first, fourth and sixth positions.  The triangle in the third position points to bottom left.  Place the dark blue square in the second position and the medium blue in fifth position.

Row six

Row six

Row six contains the same blocks as row one but the yellow triangles are placed in different directions.  At each end they point down towards the corners of the quilt.  In the middle pair the yellow triangle points first to bottom left and then to top right.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Finish the quilt

Sew the blocks together in rows and then sew the rows to each other.

For the border I’ve used 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue.  You need two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Tippecanoe quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Quilting on Minnie

Quilting on Minnie

Last week I mentioned that I had finally sorted out Minnie, my longarm quilting machine.  Well, I’ve begun quilting the Plaid quilt on her.  I can’t tell you how good it felt to finally get going.  Naturally, I was also hugely relieved that it went so well.

I had been very nervous that after the move I might have some of the problems with tension (mine and hers!) that I’d had when I first bought her, but it all went really smoothly.

I had picked up some pretty tartan fabric in the rag market and I’m using that for the backing.  It’s brushed cotton so it should make the quilt feel nice and warm to curl up in.

Swallow Quilt Block – Free Pattern

Swallow quilt block

Swallow quilt block

I’ve made the Swallow quilt block as promised last week.  This time I have made it correctly!  I have made it as a 12″ square.  It’s very straightforward to make apart from the one corner that I made incorrectly last week when I made the hummingbird quilt block.

Cutting requirements for the swallow quilt block

6.1/2″ square:  one blue

3.7/8″ squares:  four blue, four white

3.1/2″ squares:  two white

2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  one blue, two white

5″ by 2″ rectangles:  one blue, one white

2.3/8″ squares:  two blue




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make the larger half square triangle units.  Place a blue and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.

Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.  The four squares of each colour will make eight half square triangles, but you only need seven for the swallow quilt block.

Make the rectangle sections

Make the rectangle sections

Make the rectangle sections

I’m using a different method to make the smaller triangles in the bottom right corner of the block.

Place a 2.3/8″ blue square on the end of a white 3.1/2″ rectangle and a white 5″ rectangle.  Line up the edges at the end of the rectangle.  The blue squares are slightly wider than the rectangles which will make the final triangles the correct size.

Note that the pin runs from top left to bottom right on the 5″ rectangle, but from bottom left to top right on the 3.1/2″ rectangle.

Trim the excess triangles

Trim the excess triangles

Sew a seam along the pin line, following the diagonal of the square.  Cut along a line 1/4″ outside the seam line.  Discard the two triangles – one white and one blue – created.

Press the remaining triangle back so that you now have a white rectangle with a blue triangle at the end.

Sew blue rectangles to the white ones

Sew blue rectangles to the white ones

Sew a blue rectangle to each white rectangle.

Note that the blue rectangle is on the right of one white rectangle but on the left of the other one.

Swallow quilt block layout

Swallow quilt block layout

Make the swallow quilt block

Place the 6.1/2″ blue square in the middle of the block.  Lay three half square triangles and a white square across the top of the block.

Add two half square triangles to the left hand side of the central square.  These are all placed so that the blue triangle is placed bottom right.

Across the bottom row lay a white square, a half square triangle and the smaller of the two rectangle sections.  Make the right hand column with a white square, a half square triangle and the larger rectangle section with a white rectangle beneath it.  Note that the half square triangles are now placed so that the blue triangle is top left.

Make three columns

Make three columns

Sew the patchwork pieces together in three columns and then sew the columns to each other to complete the Swallow quilt block.

Basic swallow quilt design

Basic swallow quilt design

Quilt design ideas

For the first quilt I have just shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four – a flock of swallows.  I’m sure somebody out there can tell me the collective noun for swallows!

Alternate quilt design

Alternate quilt design

For the second quilt idea, I have rotated the blocks, added some plain red blocks and also used a red square for the middle of some of the swallow blocks.  Needless to say, I find this a far more interesting quilt.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Anniversary Dog Quilt – Free Pattern

Anniversary dog quilt

Anniversary dog quilt

I’ve named the Anniversary Dog quilt after two totally different things.  The first is that the design comes from a wall in a restaurant that I went to in London last weekend.  I had been to watch the Anniversary Games held in the Olympic Stadium (more about that at the end of the page).  The second totally separate reason for the name is that I’ve used all the fabrics from a new range of dog fabrics that I have just bought.

The quilt is rectangular, measuring 49″ by 64″.  I’ve used twelve blocks which are all 15″ square finished size.  The fabric requirement is for 3/4 yard of each of five different fabrics with just 1/4 yard of light blue.  I’ve tried to call the fabrics in shades of blue rather than just the pattern on the fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the Anniversary Dog quilt

Light blue fabric (dog breeds):  thirty six 3.1/2″ squares

Medium blue fabric (words):  twelve 6.1/2″ squares, twelve 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles

Dark blue fabric (bones):  twenty four 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles

The wall that inspired the quilt design

The wall that inspired the quilt design

White fabric (dog silhouettes):  twelve 6.1/2″ squares, twelve 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles, twelve 3.1/2″ squares

Red fabric:  twelve 15.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of a sixth fabric across the width of fabric.

The block is most easily made in two completely separate halves

Make the top half of the block

Top half of the block

Top half of the block

Begin with a 6.1/2″ medium blue square on the left.  Next to this place a white rectangle and a light blue square with a light blue square and a dark blue rectangle beneath them.

Sew the pieces across the two right hand rows and then sew the two rows to each other.  Sew this section to the square on the left.

It’s an incredibly simple design, but it just struck me as  delightful when I saw it on the wall.

Make the lower half of the block

Lower half of the block

Lower half of the block

This is very similar to the top half, but place the large 6.1/2″ square on the right this time.  Working from the left, place a light blue square and a dark blue rectangle with a medium blue rectangle and light blue square beneath them.  Place a large white square on the right.

Once again sew the rectangles to the small squares and then sew these two rows to each other.  Sew this panel to the white square on the right.

Completing the block

Add red sashing

Add red sashing

I had intended to sew these two sections of the block together to make a rectangular block, but when I put several of them together they just looked a muddle.  So I decided to add a red strip across the middle between the two sections.  I felt that this would help me give some structure to the quilt design.

It also makes the block square, although that was not my primary objective.

Sew a red sashing strip between the top and lower half of the block.

The block now measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make twelve of these.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the anniversary dog quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of three blocks.

In the first row the red stripes are all vertical.  I’m using the red stripes and the medium blue large squares to define how to place each block.  The blue squares are placed bottom left, bottom left and then top right.

Row two

Row two

For the second row, the red stripes are vertical then horizontal then vertical again.

Place the medium blue squares bottom left, bottom right and then top right.

Row three

Row three

In row three the red stripes are again vertical then horizontal and then vertical.  Place the medium blue squares bottom left, top left and then top right.

Row four

Row four

Finally for row four place the red stripes all vertically.  The medium blue squares lie bottom left, top right and top right.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

For the border you will need to sew two lengths of 45.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt, with two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the anniversary dog quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

The Monument in London

The Monument in London

The Anniversary Games are held each year in the former Olympic Stadium in London.  Last weekend was the first time that I had visited the Stadium and it was a real treat to see some of the great stars of athletics in action.  Mo Farah is retiring this year so it was a privilege to see him running.

We also had time for some sightseeing and went to see the Monument which commemorates the Great Fire of London in 1666.  The tower was built a few years later to celebrate the re building of London and it still dominates the area even all these centuries later.

Hummingbird Quilt Block Pattern

Hummingbird quilt block

Hummingbird quilt block

The Hummingbird quilt block began life as a mistake.  Then I realised that I liked it as it was, so I kept going.  Originally I intended to write a pattern for the Swallows quilt block.  When I put the pieces together I realised that I had miscalculated and had made a totally different block.  However it looked like a hummingbird hovering outside a large trumpet flower, so that’s how it came by its name.

I’ve made it here as a 12″ square finished size.  Although I have used only one colour plus white, I think that I would make it in several different colours if I made it again.




Cutting requirements for the Hummingbird quilt block

6.1/2″ squares:  one purple

3.7/8″ squares:  four purple, four white

3.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  one purple, one white

6.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  one purple, one white

2.3/8″ squares:  two purple

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles.  Place a white and a purple square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.

The four squares of each colour will actually give you eight units although you will only need seven of them for the hummingbird quilt block.

Place purple squares on the white rectangles

Place purple squares on the white rectangles

Make the rectangle sections

Place a 2.3/8″ purple square on one end of each of the white rectangles.  The squares will overlap slightly on either side of the rectangles.  This is intentional!

Pin the square to the 6.1/2″ rectangle running from top left to bottom right of the square.  Repeat with the 3.1/22 rectangle, but this time have the pins running from bottom left to top right.

Sew along the two pin lines to secure the squares to the rectangles along the diagonals.

Trim the excess triangles

Trim the excess triangles

Trim a line 1/4″ away from the sewn line on each square.  Be careful which side of the seam you cut.  Discard the spare purple and white triangles and press the rest of the purple square open.  The rectangle should now be the same size as before but with a purple triangle on one end.

Add the purple rectangles

Add the purple rectangles

Add the purple rectangles

Place a purple rectangle beside each white rectangle.  Sew them together along the length.

Hummingbird quilt block layout

Hummingbird quilt block layout

Assemble the hummingbird quilt block

Lay the 6.1/2″ purple square in the middle of the block.  Place two half square triangles above the square. Beneath the square place one half square triangle and the small rectangle section.

Down the left hand side of the central square place three half square triangles and a white square.  On the right hand side place a white square followed by a half square triangle and the large rectangle unit.  Check the photo to be sure which way round to place the half square triangles.  I found it helpful to follow the straight lines formed by the diagonals of the half square triangles, with the purple triangles all above or all below the diagonals.

Sew the patchwork pieces together to make three columns and then sew the columns to each other to complete the hummingbird quilt block.  Next week I’ll make the proper Swallows quilt block and write the pattern up!

Basic hummingbird quilt design

Basic hummingbird quilt design

Quilt design ideas

For the basic quilt design I have shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.  I think they remind me a little of a computer game – all waiting to be shot!

Alternate hummingbird quilt design

Alternate hummingbird quilt design

For an alternate design I have rotated the blocks and this throws up with some lovely designs.  The white sections take the look of a submarine periscope.

Here’s the video:

 

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Plaid Quilt – Free Pattern Beginner Quilting

Plaid quilt

Plaid quilt

The Plaid quilt block is somewhat unusual looking – it has dark blue strips on two sides only so looks a bit lop sided.  However it makes an interesting quilt because you can rotate the blocks and make quite a difference.  The curtains that I made recently had blue squares and I felt that this quilt would match the room perfectly.

In case you haven’t come across the word before, plaid is another name for tartan.  The block is super easy to make – not a triangle to be seen.

The quilt measures 76″ square using sixteen blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.  I needed 2.1/4 yards of dark blue, 2 yards of light blue, 1.1/4 yards of medium blue together with 3/4 yard of red fabric.  Unfortunately I used up all my dark blue batik fabric so I can’t offer these fabrics as a special this week.




Completed plaid quilt block

Completed plaid quilt block

Cutting requirements for the plaid quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  one hundred and twenty eight medium blue, sixteen light blue, sixty four dark blue

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixty four light blue

15.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen dark blue

18.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen dark blue

For the border you will need to cut eight 2.1/2″ lengths of red fabric across the width.

Make the nine patch unit

Make 9 patch blocks

Make 9 patch blocks

The simplest way to make the nine patch unit in the middle of the block is by using strip piecing.  Sew together 3.1/2″ strips of fabric along the length:  one panel of medium, dark, medium blue and another panel of dark, light, dark blue.

Cut these panels at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This produces rectangles 9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″, each one made of three squares.  Lay down two of the medium, dark, medium rectangles with a dark, light, dark rectangle between them, as shown on the right of the photo.

Sew the three rectangles to each other to create a 9.1/2″ squares.  You need to make sixteen of these.

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Make the rest of the block

On each edge of the nine patch unit place a 9.1/2″ light blue rectangle.  Lay a medium blue square in each corner.  Sew these pieces together in three columns and then sew the columns to each other.

Add the dark blue strips

Add the dark blue strips

Now it just remains to add a 15.1/2″ dark blue rectangle across the top and then an 18.1/2″ dark blue rectangle down the left side of the block.

The block now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make sixteen of these.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the plaid quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  Concentrate on the dark blue outer strips when laying out the blocks.  In row one the dark blue runs on the left and across the top of the block.  In the second block the dark blue runs across the bottom and up the right side.  This is reversed in the third block where the dark blue runs down the left and then across the bottom.  Finally the fourth block has dark blue on the top and down the right.

In row two the first two blocks have the dark blue across the top and down the left.  The second two blocks have the dark blue across the top and down the right.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

In row three the dark blue forms an L shape in the first two blocks. The second two blocks have a back to front L instead.

In row four the dark blue runs down the left and across the bottom, then across the top and down the right in the second block.  For the third block the dark blue runs across the top and down the left.  The fourth block has the dark blue running across the bottom and up the right.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete this section.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the plaid quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of red to make the border.  I decided to introduce an extra colour for the border as I thought it would give a bit of pop to the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 76.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the plaid quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Birmingham bear

Birmingham bear

The Bears have come to town!  Two years ago, when I moved to Birmingham, the city was full of owl sculptures.

Birmingham owl

Birmingham owl

They were all decorated in totally different ways and at the end of the summer they were auctioned off and raised huge amounts of money for the Birmingham Children’s Hospital.  They resulted in my Owl and Pussycat quilt pattern.

This year the whole thing is being repeated but with over 100 bears.  The first few are on display already and I saw my first one yesterday.  Needless to say, there will be a teddy bear quilt pattern arriving some time soon!

%d bloggers like this: