Chisholm Trail Quilt Block Pattern

Chisholm Trail quilt block

Chisholm Trail quilt block

The Chisholm Trail quilt block is a really simple block that makes up nicely in red, blue and white.  It’s classified as a four patch block and I’ve made it here as a 12″ square finished size.

Cutting requirements for the Chisholm Trail quilt block

3.7/8″ squares:  seven red, seven white

3.1/2″ squares:  two blue




Make the half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a red and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will give you two half square triangle units.  They are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the red and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Make the Chisholm Trail quilt block

Chisholm Trail quilt block layout

Chisholm Trail quilt block layout

Lay the squares out in four rows of four.  Make a four patch unit in the middle with two blue squares and two red/white half square triangle units.  Place these so that the red triangles form a butterfly shape in the middle of the block.

In each corner of the block place a half square triangle with the red on the outside.  Between each pair of corners place a pair of half square triangles, laying them so that the white triangles together form a larger white triangle pointing in towards the middle.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

Basic Chisholm Trail quilt idea

Basic Chisholm Trail quilt idea

Chisholm Trail quilt ideas

For the basic quilt idea I have shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.  The red seems to form grid lines along the diagonals which is quite attractive.

Same quilt with some rotations

Same quilt with some rotations

In the second idea, there may not seem to be much of a change, but there are a lot more secondary designs showing up.  All I have changed is the rotation of the blocks.  If you concentrate on the direction of the blue squares, you’ll see that I have rotated half the blocks.  This gives an impression of diamonds rather than the grid lines in the first quilt which I found far more pleasing.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Grandmothers Choice Quilt Pattern

Grandmothers choice quilt

Grandmothers choice quilt

For the Grandmothers Choice quilt I have used two different blocks to create a quilt that could be suitably masculine in some colour choices or delightfully feminine in different colour choices.  The quilt is rectangular and is rather large at 64″ by 94″, using twenty four blocks which are all 15″ square finished size.  To complete the quilt I used 1.3/4 yards of white, 2.1/4 yards of brown and 2.3/4 yards of yellow fabric.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the grandmothers choice quilt

Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

3.1/2″ squares:  seventy two brown, forty eight white

6.1/2″ squares:  forty eight brown

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  forty eight yellow

6.7/8″ squares:  twenty four white, twenty four yellow

For the border you will need to cut eight 2.1/2″ yellow strips across the width of fabric.

Grandmothers choice quilt block

Grandmothers choice quilt block

Make the grandmothers choice quilt block

Definitely an easy one this!  Place a 6.1/2″ brown square in each corner with a 3.1/2″ brown square in the middle.  Between each pair of corners place a yellow rectangle.  Sew the pieces together to form three rows and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  You need to make twelve of these.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangles

Use the 6.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a yellow and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 6.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the yellow and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Make the alternate block

Alaska Homestead quilt block layout

Alaska Homestead quilt block layout

For the alternate block I have chosen the Alaska Homestead quilt block.  Lay the squares out as shown with a half square triangle in each corner and a 3.1/2″ brown square in the middle.  Place the triangles so that the white is always on the outside, forming the corners of the block.

Between each pair of corners place a brown square and a white square.  As you can see, that means that the central cross is made of alternating brown and white squares.

Sew the rows to each other

Sew the rows to each other

In the first and third rows you need to sew the two small squares together first.  Then sew the pieces together across the rows.  The second row is straightforward – just sew all the squares together across the row.

Sew the rows to each other to complete the alternate block.  You need to make twelve of these.

Rows 1 and 6

Rows 1 and 6

Assemble the grandmothers choice quilt

The blocks are sewn together in six rows of four.  Each row contains two grandmothers choice block and two alternate blocks.  Rows one and six are made with an alternate block at each end and two grandmothers choice blocks between them.

Rows 2 - 5

Rows 2 – 5

The blocks are reversed for rows 2, 3, 4 and 5, with a grandmothers choice block at each end and two alternate blocks between them.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Make the border with 2.1/2″ strips of yellow fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 94.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Bourneville pavilion

Bourneville pavilion

After all my gardening last week, I needed a trip to the tip to take all my garden clippings.  I have to go through a part of Birmingham called Bourneville – which of course is where all the chocolate is made.  I will go to Cadbury World one day and show you some photos, but on this particular day it was the Pavilion that struck me.

Bourneville pavilion - side view

Bourneville pavilion – side view

When the boys were young I took them to cricket grounds all over the country for their games, but I don’t remember ever seeing such a beautiful pavilion as this one.  Before you ask, yes it was raining when I took these photos.  You can see the rain spots on the top photo!

Double Star Quilt Block Pattern

Double star quilt block

Double star quilt block

The double star quilt block is surprisingly easy to make – only two colours and it’s made from squares, rectangles and half square triangles only.  It is a big block, though.  I have made it here as a 30″ square finished size, but you could make it as a 20″ square using 2.1/2″ and 2.7/8″ squares instead.  In the size that I have made it, it just needs a few borders to become a lap quilt or a Linus quilt.

Cutting requirements for the double star quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  twelve white

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty red, twenty white

3.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ rectangles:  six red

9.1/2″ squares:  four white




Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a red and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the red and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Make the central star block

Central star layout

Central star layout

Lay the squares out in four rows of four.

Place two rectangles in the middle with a pair of half square triangles on each edge.  Lay the half square triangles so that the white triangles lie together, forming a larger white triangle pointing towards the rectangles.

Add a 3.1/2″ white square in each corner.

Sew the rows together

Sew the rows together

Sew the squares together across the top and bottom rows.  For the middle row you need to sew the two half square triangles together first and then you can sew the pieces together across the row.

Sew the three rows to each other.

Part star layout

Part star layout

Make the part star sections

The parts stars are obviously very similar to the full star block.  Lay the pieces out in three rows of four, using just one rectangle rather than the two used in the full star block.  Arrange the half square triangles in pairs around the rectangle.  Note that there are white squares in the first row only.

Sew the rows to each other

Sew the rows to each other

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows together.

You need to make four of these part star blocks.

Double star quilt block layout

Double star quilt block layout

Assemble the double star quilt block

This last bit is easy:  lay the blocks out in three rows of three.  Place a 9,1/2″ white square in each corner with the full star in the middle.  Lay one part star on each edge of the central star.  Rotate them so that the white corners are always on the outside.

Sew the blocks together across each row.  Note that the rows are different heights:  the first and third rows are 9.1/2″ high while the second row is 12.1/2″ high.  Sew the rows to each other to complete the quilt block.

Basic quilt design

Basic quilt design

Double star quilt suggestions

When the block has been made this large, it doesn’t need much to make it into a quilt.  For my first quilt suggestion I have just added three borders to the block.

The first and third borders are 3″ wide while the middle border is 1″ wide.

Alternate quilt design

Alternate quilt design

As an alternative I have added large half square triangles around the block to give it more of a frame.

These half square triangle units are made from both 4.7/8″ and 9.7/8″ squares.

Here’s the video:

Ombre Quilt – Free Pattern

Ombre quilt

Ombre quilt

The Ombre quilt block is more generally made in colours shading from light to dark, but I’ve chosen to use a strong red within the block to bring out more contrasts.

I have used only one block throughout the quilt, but I love the way that both crosses and diamond patterns appear when they are all sewn together.

The quilt measures 64″ square, using sixteen 15″ square finished size blocks.  I needed 1.3/4 yards each of dark blue, light blue and red fabric.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the ombre quilt

Ombre quilt block

Ombre quilt block

3.7/8″ squares:  thirty two each in dark blue and red, thirty two each in dark blue and light blue, sixty four each in red and light blue

3.1/2″ squares:  sixty four light blue, sixty four red, sixteen dark blue

For the border you will need to cut seven 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Begin with the half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units with all the 3.7/8″ squares in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along one diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Central section layout

Central section layout

Make the ombre quilt block

Once again it is simpler to look at the central section first.  This is a nine patch unit made with a dark blue square in the middle and a red square on each edge of the central square.  Dark blue/light blue half square triangles are placed in the corners of this central unit with the dark blue nearest the middle.

Ombre quilt block full layout

Ombre quilt block full layout

The outer frame is then fairly easy to add on.  In each corner place a red/dark blue half square triangle with the dark blue on the outside, forming the corners of the block.  Between each pair of corners place a light blue square with a red/light blue half square triangle on either side of it.  Check the photo to be sure which way to place the half square triangles:  you are forming first a light blue and then a red diamond around the central area.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the ombre quilt block.  Make sixteen of these.

Assemble the ombre quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  This really is a very simple quilt to make!

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

For the border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the ombre quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

 

St Patricks Day Parade 2017

St Patricks Day Parade 2017

I know that today is St Patricks Day, but the parade in Birmingham was held last Sunday.  It was a lovely day and there was a wonderful atmosphere for the parade.

Last year I prepared a short video of it and most people commented on the bagpipes, so this year I’ve only really included the bagpipes. I hope you enjoy it:

Starry Path Quilt Block Pattern

Starry path quilt block

Starry path quilt block

The Starry Path quilt block should be simple to make – it’s made entirely with squares, rectangles and half square triangles.  However I ended up unpicking several times because it’s terribly easy to place the half square triangles incorrectly.

I’ve made it here as a big block (24″ square finished size), so that I can use it as the basis for a Linus quilt by adding a few borders to it.

Cutting requirements for the starry path quilt block

3.7/8″ squares:  seventeen blue, seventeen white

3.1/2″ squares:  two blue, six white

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  two white, two blue

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  two white

15.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  two blue




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a blue and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue fabric and trim the two seams where the fabric sticks out.

Top four rows

Top four rows

The first four rows of the block

I am showing the layout in pairs of rows to make it easier to see how the block goes together.  It can become a bit of a blur of half square triangles otherwise.  Look for the larger shapes to help you place the triangles.  There’s an egg timer shape formed by four half square triangles at the end of the first pair of rows.  This shape is repeated two squares before the end of the second pair of rows.  Note the progression of the white on the left hand side of the rows:  a triangle in the first row, a square and a triangle in the second row, a 6.1/2″ strip and a triangle in the third row with a 9.1/2″ white strip plus triangle in the fourth row.

I found it easiest to sew the squares together across each of these rows and sew the rows together first before continuing with the bottom half of the starry path quilt block.

The lower 4 rows

The lower 4 rows

The lower four rows

Once again, look for the larger shapes.  The egg timer shape continues down the diagonal, appearing two squares before the beginning of the fifth and sixth rows and then in the bottom left hand corner.  Note that along the other diagonal the blue is now appearing below the diagonal whereas it had been above the diagonal in the top half of the block.

I also found it helped to check the length of each row as I laid them out.  When you have strips of so many different lengths it’s possible to leave a square out without realising that you have.

Finally, sew the squares together across the rows and sew these rows to the top four rows.

Basic starry path quilt design

Basic starry path quilt design

Quilt designs

I’ve shown a basic quilt design using nine blocks sewn together in three rows of three.

Quilt design with rotations

Quilt design with rotations

However when you start rotating the blocks, a very pleasing design shows up.  You’d need to make the blocks smaller to make this quilt – it would be a 16″ block if you used 2.1/2″ and 2.7/8″ squares to make it.

Here’s the video:

Towers of Camelot Quilt – Free Pattern

Towers of Camelot quilt

Towers of Camelot quilt

The Towers of Camelot quilt block is also known as Air Castles.  It’s the quarter square triangles that form that make you think of turrets and castles.  There are three techniques needed for each block, but once you have made these the quilt block goes together really quickly as a simple nine patch.  Each step is simple – trust me!

I’ve made it as a rectangular quilt as I’ve been told that I make too many square quilts.  It measures 60″ by 78″, using twelve 18″ square finished size blocks.  The quilt used 1.1/4 yards of turquoise, 2 yards of white and 2.3/4 yards of blue fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.  If you visit the online shop, you’ll find that all payments are now through Paypal, but you don’t have to have a Paypal account – you can buy as a guest using your card in the normal way.




Cutting requirements for the Towers of Camelot quilt

Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

6.7/8″ squares:  twenty turquoise, twenty white, twenty blue

7.1/4″ squares:  ten blue, ten white

4.3/4″ squares: ten white

3.7/8″ squares:  twenty turquoise

13.1/4″ squares:  two blue

9.7/8″ squares:  four white

For the binding you will need to cut eight 3.1/2″ strips of blue across the width of fabric

Make the half square triangles

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Use the 6.7/8″ squares in turquoise and white only for the half square triangle units.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangles which are now 6.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the turquoise and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Make quarter square triangle units

Make quarter square triangle units

Make the quarter square triangle units

First you need to make half square triangles as above using the 7.1/4″ blue and white squares.  This produces half square triangle units which are 6.7/8″ squares.

Place a blue 6.7/8″ square right sides together with one of the blue/white half square triangles.  Line up the edges and mark a line along the diagonal that crosses the other seam – make sure that your two seams won’t both run along the same diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces a quarter square triangle unit made up of one large blue triangle, one small blue triangle and one small white triangle.  These are now 6.1/2″ squares.

Make the diamond in a square units

Make the diamond in a square

Make the diamond in a square

The central section of the Towers of Camelot quilt block is a white diamond in a turquoise square.  Cut the 3.7/8″ turquoise squares along one diagonal to make two triangles.  Place one triangle on each edge of the 4.3/4″ white square.  I know the square doesn’t look very white in the photo, but it was a dull day when I took the photos.

Sew the top and bottom triangles to the square and then press them open.  Next sew the two triangles to the sides and press them open.  Trim the edges of the resulting square as the fabric from the triangle tips sticks out in the middle of each edge.

For each block you need four half square triangle units, four quarter square triangle units and one diamond in a square.

Towers of Camelot quilt block layout

Towers of Camelot quilt block layout

Make the towers of Camelot quilt block

Lay the sections out in three rows of three.  Place a diamond in a square unit with a quarter square triangle unit on each edge and a half square triangle in each corner.  Sew the sections together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

You need to make ten of these blocks.

Make the alternate block

Alternate block layout

Alternate block layout

This block is another diamond in a square, but using much larger pieces.

Cut the 9.7/8″ squares along one diagonal to make triangles.  Place one triangle on each edge of the blue 13.1/4″ square.  Sew the top and bottom triangles to the square first.  Press these open and then sew the side triangles to the square.  Trim the edges of the block to remove the triangle tips in the middle of each edge.

Make two of the alternate blocks.

Rows 1 and 4

Rows 1 and 4

Assemble the Towers of Camelot quilt

Lay the blocks out in four rows of three blocks.

Rows one and four are made with three towers blocks side by side.

For rows two and three place an alternate block in the middle with a towers block on either side.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt binding

Add the quilt binding

Add the quilt binding

I have used 3.1/2″ strips of blue fabric for the binding.  You’ll need two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 78.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Towers of Camelot quilt.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Colour through quilting

Colour through quilting

Yesterday I went to Malvern for the Stitch and Craft show. The quilting section was larger than I had expected, with some gorgeous quilts on display.

This one was a black background with all the colour coming from the quilting – very impressive.

It was lovely bumping into (not literally) quilters who knew me through the website – thanks for saying hello.

Landscape quilts

Landscape quilts

These landscape quilts were incredibly realistic.  The one on the right was amazingly detailed with all the branches interlocking in both the top and in the reflection.

I do so admire the attention to detail shown by these quilters.  It inspired me to take a walk in the Malvern hills afterwards.  I think that I took a wrong turn somewhere and ended up on a much longer walk than I had expected.  As it was such a lovely sunny day that wasn’t really a problem.

Judy Niemeyer quilt pattern

Judy Niemeyer quilt pattern

There were several quilts made from Judy Niemeyer patterns.  Her quilts have always impressed me, so it was really exciting to see some of them in the flesh.

I finished with a quick walk around the town of Malvern, sampling the famous spring water from a tap in the street. Altogether a marvellous day out.

Jacks Delight Quilt Block Pattern

Jacks delight quilt block

Jacks delight quilt block

The Jacks Delight quilt block is made using a diagonal setting but as usual it isn’t too difficult if you take it in small stages.  I’ve made it here as an 18″ square finished size.

Cutting requirements for the Jacks Delight quilt block

5.3/8″ squares:  five brown, five white

6.7/8″ squares:  two white, cut along one diagonal

9″ square:  one brown




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use four each of the brown and white 5.3/8″ squares to make half square triangles.  Place a brown and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will give you two half square triangle units which are now 5″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the brown and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Jacks delight quilt block layout

Jacks delight quilt block layout

Make the Jacks delight quilt block

Place the 9″ brown square in the middle of the layout.  On each edge of the square place two half square triangle units.  These all have a white edge against the square, but check the photo to be sure of which way to lay the half square triangles.

The layut shown on the right shows the block as it will lookwhen finished, although the photo below shows the layout as it will be sewn.

View of the layout as it will be sewn

View of the layout as it will be sewn

Outside each pair of half square triangles place a white triangle formed by cutting a 6.7/8″ square along one diagonal.  These form the corners of the quilt block.

Sew the patchwork pieces together in rows

Sew the pieces together across the rows

Sew the pieces together across the rows

Think of the block in terms of rows of patchwork pieces where the white triangle is the first and last row and the middle row has a white triangle at each end.

You should have two 5.3/8″ squares left – one brown and one white.  Cut them both along one diagonal.  In the second row place a white triangle at the beginning and a brown triangle at the end.

In the row above the bottom white triangle, place a brown triangle at the beginning of the row and a white triangle at the end.

For the middle section, sew the two half square triangles to each other vertically.  You will then be able to sew the white triangles, half square triangles and central square together in one row.

When you have sewn the pieces together into three rows, sew the rows to each other to complete the Jacks delight quilt block.

Basic quilt design

Basic quilt design

Jacks delight quilt ideas

I have shown a basic quilt using nine blocks sewn together in three rows of three.

Alternate quilt idea

Alternate quilt idea

Just for interest, I then tried changing the colour in some of the blocks.

I think this second option gives a more interesting quilt.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I look forward to seeing you again.

Rose

Easter Cross Quilt – Free Pattern

Easter Cross quilt

Easter Cross quilt

I’ve made the Easter Cross quilt with a cross in each quilt block and also a cross within the overall design.  The block is my own design and you may be pleased to know that it is made with only squares and rectangles.  I haven’t used a single triangle!

The quilt measures 67″ square, using 1 yard each of dark blue and medium blue, 1.1/2 yards of light blue, 1.1/4 yards of red and just 1/2 yard of yellow fabric.  I made nine blocks, each one 21″ square finished size.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed Easter Cross quilt block

Completed Easter Cross quilt block

Cutting requirements for the Easter Cross quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  fifty two medium blue, eighteen red, eighteen yellow, seventy two dark blue

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  seventy two light blue, thirty six dark blue

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  nine yellow

2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  fifty four light blue, fifty four red

For the border you will need seven 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric cut across the width of fabric.

Easter Cross quilt block layout

Easter Cross quilt block layout

Make the Easter Cross quilt block

The block is simple to make, with the pieces laid out in seven rows.

Make rows one and seven with a dark blue square at each end.  Place a medium blue square in the middle and two 6.1/2″ light blue rectangles between them.

Rows two and six have a 6.1/2″ light blue rectangle at each end.  In the middle there’s a red square with a medium blue square either side of it.

For rows three and five place a 2″ light blue rectangle at each end with a 6.1/2″ medium blue rectangle just inside them.  The middle of these rows consists of a yellow square with a red 2″ rectangle either side.

Finally for the fourth (middle) row place a 9.1/2″ yellow strip in the middle with a 2″ red strip either side followed by a medium blue square either side and a 2″ light blue strip at each end.

Sew the pieces together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the quilt block.  This now measures 21.1/2″ square and you need to make four of them.

Alternate quilt block

Alternate quilt block

Make the alternate quilt block

In the alternate block I have swapped the dark blue and medium blue pieces, but left the red, yellow and light blue pieces exactly the same.  As you can see, this gives a darker block and I have used this to form the shape of the cross within the quilt.

Make five of the alternate block.

Rows one and three

Rows one and three

Assemble the Easter Cross quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  Place an Easter Cross block at each end with an alternate block in the middle for rows one and three.

Row two

Row two

In order to make row two, place three alternate blocks side by side.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

For the border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of red fabric.  Sew a 63.1/2″ length to the top and bottom of the quilt.  Then make 67.1/2″ lengths for the sides.

That completes the Easter Cross quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Feathers Hotel Ludlow

Feathers Hotel Ludlow

I think that I may have mentioned problems with my computer over the last few weeks.  Last week it became a far more serious problem so I took a trip back to Ludlow for my wonderful computer man to work his magic on it.  Luckily he was able to fix the problem while I re visited my old haunts around Ludlow.

The Feathers Hotel is a 17th century coaching inn.  The front view is stunning and it’s easy to see how it came to be known as ‘the most handsome inn in the world’.  I had a very welcome coffee in there to escape the constant rain.

Arrant Red Birds Quilt Block Pattern

Arrant red birds quilt block

Arrant red birds quilt block

The Arrant Red Birds quilt block is another misnomer.  Once again I have made it in the traditional colours of blues and white, although I feel that logically it should be made in reds and white.  I’ve made it as a 16″ square finished size.

In case you’re wondering, the dictionary defines arrant as either thorough (as in I sometimes talk arrant nonsense!) or as wandering.  I guess that it’s the second definition that works for this block name.




Cutting requirements for the arrant red birds quilt block

2.1/2″ squares:  eight dark blue

2.7/8″ squares:  ten each in light blue and white, eighteen each in dark blue and white

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangles

Use the 2.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place a white square right sides together with either a light blue or a dark blue square.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.

Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue fabric and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Make the arrant red birds quilt block

Layout for central area

Layout for central area

I’m showing the central area first to keep things simple.  There are four dark blue squares in the middle and a dark blue/white half square triangle in each corner.  On each edge of the central square place two light blue/white half square triangle units.  Place the light blue triangles with the blue triangles side by side forming a larger triangle pointing towards the middle.

Add the next frame

Add the next frame

For the next frame place a dark blue square in each corner.  Between each pair of corners place two pairs of dark blue/white half square triangles.  Place these so that there is a larger white triangle pointing outwards in the middle of each edge.  The dark blue triangles on either side of this form a stripe together with the other blue triangles.  Together they form the dark blue diamond shaped frame.

Arrant red birds quilt block layout

Arrant red birds quilt block layout

Now add the last frame, giving you the full layout for the arrant red birds quilt block.  In the middle of each edge place two dark blue/white half square triangles, forming a larger dark blue triangle pointing away from the middle.

Across each edge there are two sets of four half square triangles.  They alternate dark blue and light blue and are placed so that the blue triangles on either side of the central pair face the same way as each other.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the arrant red birds quilt block.

Do check the photo carefully before you sew everything together.  I managed to mis place one pair of triangles and it took me ages to unpick and re sew the seam.

Quilt design ideas

Basic arrant red birds quilt image

Basic arrant red birds quilt image

For quilt ideas I have shown a basic quilt with sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.

Half the blocks have the colours swapped

Half the blocks have the colours swapped

Then to introduce some variety I tried swapping the light blue and dark blue for an alternate block.

I rather like this version – it’s far more interesting to look at.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Owen Jones Quilt – Free Pattern

Owen Jones quilt

Owen Jones quilt

The Owen Jones quilt is perhaps wrongly named because I’ve designed this quilt very very loosely on an Owen Jones pattern design.  You can see what Wikipedia says about him:

Owen Jones (15 February 1809 – 19 April 1874) was an English-born Welsh architect. A versatile architect and designer, he was also one of the most influential design theorists of the nineteenth century. He helped pioneer modern color theory, and his theories on flat patterning and ornament still resonate with contemporary designers today.

Original Owen Jones design

Original Owen Jones design

The design that I began working from – as you can see the connection between this and the quilt is fairly loose!

Please don’t look at it and think it looks too complicated for you.  I have only used half square triangles, squares and rectangles to design the blocks.




The quilt measures 52″ square and I have used nine 16″ square (finished size) blocks. You need to use 3/4 yard each of dark blue and white with 1 yard of red and 1.1/4 yards of light blue fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.

Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the Owen Jones quilt

2.7/8″ squares:  nine each in dark blue/light blue, sixty three each in light blue/white, fifty four each in dark blue/white

4.1/2″ by 2.1/2″ rectangles:  thirty six dark blue

2.1/2″ squares:  thirty six light blue

2.1/2″ by 12.1/2″ rectangles:  eighteen light blue, eighteen red

For the border you need to cut five 2.1/2″ strips of red across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangles

Use the 2.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 2.1/2″ squares.

You need to make these in light blue/white, dark blue/white and light blue/dark blue.

Make the central area of the block

Layout of the central area

Layout of the central area

I have shown the layout of the central area separately before the full layout for the block.

Place four light blue squares in each corner of this area.  The light blue/dark blue half square triangles are placed at the end of the fourth row and the beginning of the fifth row.  Everywhere else there are light blue/white or dark blue/white half square triangles only.

Rather than trying to list the squares individually, I think it’s best for me to point out the larger shapes within the area which can be used to make sure that the placement is correct.

The most obvious of these are the two dark blue diamonds within white frames and the two crown shaped dark blue shapes in the middle – the left hand one pointing upwards while the right hand one points downwards.  Running down the sides of the central area, there are two larger light blue triangles formed by placing two light blue triangles side by side.

When you are happy with the placement, sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Owen Jones quilt block layout

Owen Jones quilt block layout

Complete the Owen Jones quilt block

Now you can add the sides to the block.  On each side add first a red strip and then a light blue strip.  Place a 4.1/2″ dark blue rectangle above and below each pair of strips – so that’s four needed for each block.

Sew the long strips together first

Sew the long strips together first

Begin by sewing the two long strips to each other on each side.  Then you can add the dark blue rectangles above and below.

You should now have three columns.  Sew these to each other to complete the block.  You need to make nine of these.

Rows one and three

Rows one and three

Assemble the Owen Jones quilt

Sew the blocks together in three rows of three.  Some of the blocks are rotated, which is what gives the quilt its deliciously complicated look.

In rows one and three place the blocks at each end with the red strips running from top to bottom, while in the middle block the red strips run from side to side.

Row two

Row two

For row two place the blocks so that the ones at each end have the red strips running horizontally while the block in the middle has the red strips running vertically.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the border

Add the border

Add the quilt border

For the border I have used 2.1/2″ strips of the red fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom together with two lengths of 52.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Owen Jones quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Stitches 2017

Stitches 2017

Last week I went to a trade fair at the NEC.  It’s known as Stitches but covers knitting, papercraft and many other crafts.  There were lots and lots of fabric manufacturers there so it was a wonderful day.

This sheep really took my fancy – his body is made using something similar to puff quilting – isn’t he gorgeous!

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