Plaid Quilt – Free Pattern Beginner Quilting

Plaid quilt

Plaid quilt

The Plaid quilt block is somewhat unusual looking – it has dark blue strips on two sides only so looks a bit lop sided.  However it makes an interesting quilt because you can rotate the blocks and make quite a difference.  The curtains that I made recently had blue squares and I felt that this quilt would match the room perfectly.

In case you haven’t come across the word before, plaid is another name for tartan.  The block is super easy to make – not a triangle to be seen.

The quilt measures 76″ square using sixteen blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.  I needed 2.1/4 yards of dark blue, 2 yards of light blue, 1.1/4 yards of medium blue together with 3/4 yard of red fabric.  Unfortunately I used up all my dark blue batik fabric so I can’t offer these fabrics as a special this week.




Completed plaid quilt block

Completed plaid quilt block

Cutting requirements for the plaid quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  one hundred and twenty eight medium blue, sixteen light blue, sixty four dark blue

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixty four light blue

15.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen dark blue

18.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen dark blue

For the border you will need to cut eight 2.1/2″ lengths of red fabric across the width.

Make the nine patch unit

Make 9 patch blocks

Make 9 patch blocks

The simplest way to make the nine patch unit in the middle of the block is by using strip piecing.  Sew together 3.1/2″ strips of fabric along the length:  one panel of medium, dark, medium blue and another panel of dark, light, dark blue.

Cut these panels at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This produces rectangles 9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″, each one made of three squares.  Lay down two of the medium, dark, medium rectangles with a dark, light, dark rectangle between them, as shown on the right of the photo.

Sew the three rectangles to each other to create a 9.1/2″ squares.  You need to make sixteen of these.

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Make the rest of the block

On each edge of the nine patch unit place a 9.1/2″ light blue rectangle.  Lay a medium blue square in each corner.  Sew these pieces together in three columns and then sew the columns to each other.

Add the dark blue strips

Add the dark blue strips

Now it just remains to add a 15.1/2″ dark blue rectangle across the top and then an 18.1/2″ dark blue rectangle down the left side of the block.

The block now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make sixteen of these.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the plaid quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  Concentrate on the dark blue outer strips when laying out the blocks.  In row one the dark blue runs on the left and across the top of the block.  In the second block the dark blue runs across the bottom and up the right side.  This is reversed in the third block where the dark blue runs down the left and then across the bottom.  Finally the fourth block has dark blue on the top and down the right.

In row two the first two blocks have the dark blue across the top and down the left.  The second two blocks have the dark blue across the top and down the right.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

In row three the dark blue forms an L shape in the first two blocks. The second two blocks have a back to front L instead.

In row four the dark blue runs down the left and across the bottom, then across the top and down the right in the second block.  For the third block the dark blue runs across the top and down the left.  The fourth block has the dark blue running across the bottom and up the right.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete this section.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the plaid quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of red to make the border.  I decided to introduce an extra colour for the border as I thought it would give a bit of pop to the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 76.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the plaid quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Birmingham bear

Birmingham bear

The Bears have come to town!  Two years ago, when I moved to Birmingham, the city was full of owl sculptures.

Birmingham owl

Birmingham owl

They were all decorated in totally different ways and at the end of the summer they were auctioned off and raised huge amounts of money for the Birmingham Children’s Hospital.  They resulted in my Owl and Pussycat quilt pattern.

This year the whole thing is being repeated but with over 100 bears.  The first few are on display already and I saw my first one yesterday.  Needless to say, there will be a teddy bear quilt pattern arriving some time soon!

Twilight Quilt Block – Free Pattern

Twilight quilt block

Twilight quilt block

For the Twilight quilt block I have chosen the sort of muted colours that appear at twilight.  Unfortunately the purple and dark blue don’t look as different in the photos as they do in real life.  It’s a four patch block and I’ve made it here as a 12″ square finished size.

Cutting requirements for the twilight quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  four lilac, two dark blue, two purple

3.7/8″ squares:  two each in lilac and light blue, one each in lilac and dark blue, one each in lilac and purple




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make the half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangles which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and clip the two corners where fabric sticks ouy.

Twilight quilt block layout

Twilight quilt block layout

Make the twilight quilt block

Lay the squares out in four rows of four squares.  The pinwheel in the middle is made with two dark blue/lilac half square triangles and two purple/lilac half square triangles.  Place a lilac and a dark blue square on the top and bottom of the pinwheel.  Lay a lilac and a purple square on either side of the pinwheel.

In each corner place a lilac/light blue half square triangle with the lilac triangle always on the outside, forming the corners of the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

Basic twilight quilt design

Basic twilight quilt design

Twilight quilt block quilt designs

For the basic quilt design I have shown sixteen blocks placed in four rows of four.  It’s pretty enough but as happens so often the block design is rather lost.

Alternate design

Alternate design

So I tried again using a large pinwheel as an alternate block.  This design uses nine blocks laid out in three rows of three – five twilight quilt blocks and four pinwheel blocks.

I think that this gives a much more pleasing design.  Make the pinwheel blocks from 6.7/8″ squares.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Trip Around the World Quilt Pattern

Trip around the world quilt

Trip around the world quilt

My Trip Around the World quilt is a very simple rectangular quilt.  I have made one before but I’ve had several queries on the pattern recently so I decided that the instructions obviously weren’t as clear as they should be.  I hope that this quilt pattern will remedy that! Plus I feel that this is a much more beautiful quilt.

For this trip around the world quilt I have used bands of colour going from light to dark, slightly larger squares and made a much larger quilt.  I hope that the instructions are also much more clear!  This quilt is made in four quarters which are then joined together with a further strip of squares.

The quilt measures 52.1/2″ by 72.1/2″, using 1/2 yard each of yellow, dark yellow, orange and red fabrics with 1 yard of purple and 1.1/2 yards of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the trip around the world quilt

Cut four 3″ strips across the width of fabric in each of the six fabrics.

For the borders you will need a further eleven 3″ strips of white and six 3″ strips of purple fabric.

Please note that all these strips are 3″ cut size, giving 2.1/2″ finished size.

Sew 6 strips of fabric into panels

Sew 6 strips of fabric into panels

Make the tubes of fabric

Sew one strip of each fabric together in a panel fading from dark to light.  Make four of these.  Cut these panels in half so that you have eight panels – each one 15.1/2″ by roughly 21″.

Press the seam allowances in alternate directions

Press the seam allowances in alternate directions

Press the seam allowances in alternate directions across each panel.  In the photo you can see that alternate seam allowances point up while the others point down.  This means that you can nest the seam allowances together when you sew strips to each other.  It makes for a much neater quilt.

Create a tube of fabric

Create a tube of fabric

Place two panels with right sides together, making sure that the purple strip of one panel lies against the white of the other panel.  Sew a seam across the top and the bottom of each pair of panels, joining the white and purple strips to each other at top and at bottom only.

This will create a tube of fabric about 21″ long and containing twelve strips of fabric.  These tubes are open at each end.

Cut the tubes into loops

Cut the tubes into loops

Cut the strips of fabric

Now you need to cut each tube of fabric at 3″ intervals.  This creates individual loops which are 3″ wide and contain twelve squares.  You need to cut seven loops from each tube.  Each quarter of the quilt is made with six loops and the remaining four loops make sashing to join the quarters together.

Unpick one seam to create a strip

Unpick one seam to create a strip

First quarter of the trip around the world quilt

For this section I have begun the layout from the right hand side and worked towards the left.  I wanted to be sure that the middle of the quilt looked as I wanted it to.  Make each strip by unpicking the seam between two of the squares.

For the first strip (right hand side) unpick the seam between light yellow and white.  Place this strip with yellow at the bottom and white at the top.  In this quarter I want the colours to move downwards from top right to bottom left.  So in the second strip unpick the seam between dark yellow and light yellow.  Place the strip with dark yellow at the bottom.    The third strip needs to have orange at the bottom, so unpick the seam between orange and red.  Continue with the rest of the six strips.  Always hold the tube against the strip next to it to check that the colours are moving correctly before you unpick the seam.

Sew the six strips to each other to complete the first quarter of the trip around the world quilt.  Make two of these.  One will form the top left quarter of the quilt and the other will form the bottom right section.

Second quarter

Second quarter

Make the second quarter

In this quarter I have placed the strips from left to right, so that again I am moving from the middle towards the edge.  The photo shows the completed first quarter on the left and then the first strips of the second quarter on the left.

Begin with a strip that has light yellow at the bottom.  Yes, this is the same as the nearest strip of the first quarter!  The idea now is that the colours move down from top left to bottom right, so you have the same strips but placed in the reverse order.  Unpick the second strip of this quarter so that dark yellow is at the bottom, then orange and continue with red, purple and white to mirror the first quarter.

Sew the strips to each other to complete the second quarter.  Make two of these.  They will form the top left and bottom right sections of the quilt.

Place sashing vertically between the sections

Place sashing vertically between the sections

Assemble the trip around the world quilt

Lay the four quarters out as shown.  The first panels are diagonally opposite each other, as are the second panels.  Rotate them so that the light yellow squares are always in the middle.

You should have four loops left over.  Place one of these between the top two sections.  Unpick the seam between white and purple so that the white square is at the bottom, between the two light yellow squares.  Repeat with another strip between the bottom two sections.

Sew the panels together across each half of the quilt.

Add the horizontal sashing

Add the horizontal sashing

Add the sashing between the half sections

You now have two half sections of the quilt.  Each one of these measures 30.1/2″ long by 33″ wide.  Now you need to make the sashing to join the two halves together.

Take the remaining two loops and place them between the two sections.  Unpick the seam of the left hand loop between purple and red so that the purple square will be the centre of the row.  You need seven squares only, so also unpick the seam after the next purple square so that the strip will run from purple to purple.  The leftover squares will be used in the second border.

Unpick the other loop between purple and white so that you can place a white square next to the purple of the first strip.  You need six squares only so unpick the other end after the purple.

Sew the halves together

Sew the halves together

Sew the two sections of the sashing together to create one strip and then sew the halves of the quilt to the sashing.  Your quilt top should now measure 32.1/2″ by 62.1/2″.

Add the first border

Add the first border

Add the first border

The first border runs down the sides of the quilt only.  Make two strips of white 3″ wide by 62.1/2″ long and sew one to each side of the quilt.

The second border

Use up the leftover squares

Use up the leftover squares

In the second border I wanted to use up the remaining few squares left of the loops.  This border also runs down the sides of the quilt only.  Unpick the seams so that you have two strips running from red to light yellow.

Make four white strips 3″ by 26.1/2″ long.  Sew one on each side of each set of squares.

Pin the squares in place

Pin the squares in place

Attach one to each side of the quilt.

In order to be sure that the squares remained in the middle of the quilt, I pinned them in place first and then smoothed the white to the ends.  The seam between dark yellow and orange should lie half way across the purple square at the middle of the edge of the quilt.

The third border

This border is the first one to run all the way round the quilt.  I wanted to enclose the squares in the second border to make them stand out.  Cut two 3″ lengths of white fabric 62.1/2″ long.  Sew these to the sides of the quilt.  Cut two 3″ lengths of white 49.1/2″ long and sew these to the top and bottom of the quilt.

Add the fourth border

Add the fourth border

The final border of the trip around the world quilt

Finally!  I made the fourth and last border with 3″ strips of purple fabric to give a strong frame to the quilt.  Cut two lengths of 67.1/2″ for the sides of the quilt.  Then add two lengths of 54.1/2″ to the top and bottom.

That completes the trip around the world quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Rutland Water

Rutland Water

Last week I had lunch with some old friends – obviously by ‘old’ I mean long standing rather than ancient!  They took me to see Rutland Water which was fascinating.  It’s one of the largest man made lakes in Europe and was made by building a dam across the Gwash Valley.  It was only completed in 1975 so is relatively new but the area has been beautifully developed as a nature reserve and water sports centre.

There is a track for walking around the lake, but as it’s about 27 miles we didn’t attempt that.

 

Alaska Quilt Block – Free Pattern

Alaska quilt block

Alaska quilt block

The Alaska quilt block is quite a large one, but it has some interesting features.  I looked at it and decided that it would be easiest to make four quarters and then sew them together.  Wrong!!  I did that and found that the central area came out all wrong.  The block obviously isn’t completely symmetrical, so I’ve shown it in sections instead.

I’ve made it as a 24″ square finished size.  You could make it as a 16″ square if you used 2.1/2″ and 2.7/8″ squares.




Cutting requirements for the Alaska quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  four light blue, eight white

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  four light blue

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  four light blue

3.7/8″ squares:  eight each in dark blue/light blue, eight each in light blue/white, sixteen each in dark blue/white

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Make the central area of the Alaska quilt block

Central section

Central section

Begin with four dark blue/white half square triangles in the middle of the block.  Place these so that there are two larger dark blue triangles on the sides and two larger white triangles on the top and bottom.

Add two white squares on each edge of the central four patch.  Then add a dark blue/white half square triangle in each corner, forming the corners of this section.  It was these triangles which came out wrong when I tried to make this block in four quarters.

Add the outer frames

Bottom two rows

Bottom two rows

I’ve shown the bottom two rows of the block on their own first.  I thought that it would be clearer for you to see just the two rows first rather than the entire outer frames.

In the middle place two light blue/white half square triangles with two dark blue/white half square triangles beneath them.  On either side of the light blue triangles place a 9.1/2″ light blue rectangle.  Outside the dark blue triangles place a dark blue/light blue half square triangle on each side and then a 6.1/2″ light blue rectangle on each side.

Alaska quilt block full layout

Alaska quilt block full layout

This pattern is repeated on each edge of the central section.  If you place the top two rows next, then you will find that for the sides you only need to add four pairs of squares to each side.  Make sure that you always create a white diamond and two dark blue triangles on the edges of the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Alaska quilt block.

Quilt design ideas

Basic Alaska quilt design

Basic Alaska quilt design

The basic quilt idea is made with nine blocks sewn together in three rows of three.

It is a pretty quilt, but I felt that the design of the block was rather lost.

Using white sashing

Using white sashing

So for the next version I used white sashing to separate the blocks.  I thought that this looked much better but it still didn’t feel quite right.

With blue sashing

With blue sashing

Then I changed the sashing to dark blue and this is definitely the one that I liked best.

Thanks for visiting my blog.  I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Aunt Sukeys Choice Quilt Pattern

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt

I’ve made the Aunt Sukeys Choice quilt using two colour variations of that quilt block and a simple block of squares in the middle of the quilt.  It’s a rectangular quilt, measuring 60″ by 96″, using fifteen blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.  I find that the longer I look at this quilt, the more diamond shapes appear within it.

The fabric required is 1.3/4 yards each of pink and green with 3.1/4 yards of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the Aunt Sukeys Choice quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  fifty six white, fifty green, forty six pink

3.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ rectangles:  fifty six white, sixteen pink, twelve green

3.7/8″ squares:  forty eight each in pink and white, sixty four each in green and white

For the border you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ strips of pink, four 2.1/2″ strips of green and eight 1.1/2″ strips of white – all across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use all the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the pairings listed above.  Place a white square right sides together with a pink or a green square and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the pink or green and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt block layout

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt block layout

Make the first Aunt Sukeys choice quilt block

Lay the squares out in six rows of six.  Usually I would show you the central section first for simplicity.  For this block I have used several rectangles in order to save time and I think it will be more clear if I tell you the rows individually.

So the top and bottom rows have a pink square at each end with a white square just inside the corners.  In the middle place two pink/white half square triangles.  These should make a large pink triangle pointing up in the top row but pointing down in the sixth row.  Make rows two and five with a white rectangle at each end and a pair of pink/white half square triangles in the middle.  These should form a large white triangle pointing up in row two but pointing down in row five.

The middle rows – rows three and four – need a pair of pink/white half square triangles at each end and a green rectangle in the middle.  In each row the two red triangles together should form a stripe the same as the ones at the top and bottom of the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  This now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make six of this version.

Layout for second block

Layout for second block

Make the second block

For the second block the layout is exactly the same but with the pink and green reversed.

Sew the squares together in the same way.  This block also measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make eight of this version.

Make the central block

Central block layout

Central block layout

The central block is simply 3.1/2″ pink and green squares alternating across the six rows and down the six columns.

I made pairs of squares first by sewing together 3.1/2″ strips of pink and green and cutting them at 3.1/2″ intervals.  That was purely to save time.  Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block is 18.1/2″ square and you need to make only one.

Rows one and five

Rows one and five

Assemble the Aunt Sukeys Choice quilt

Sew the blocks together in five rows of three blocks.  In rows one and five place a block with a red centra at each end and a block with a green centre in the middle of the rows.

Rows two and four

Rows two and four

For rows two and four the blocks are reversed – a green centre at each end and a red centre in the middle of the row.

Central row

Central row

Row three, the central row, obviously contains the squared central block.  Place a block with a red centre on either side of it.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Make squares for the border

Make squares for the border

I wanted something a bit different for the quilt border.

Sew together 2.1/2″ strips of pink or green with 1.1/2″ strips of white fabric.  Cut these at 3.1/2″ intervals to give 3.1/2″ squares.  These are two thirds colour and one third white.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Sew these squares together in strips, alternating both the colour and also whether the white strip is at the top or bottom of the square.  You will need two strips of eighteen squares for the top and bottom of the quilt.

For the sides of the quilt, sew together two strips of thirty squares each.  Add a 3.1/2″ pink square at each end of each of these strips.  These are the cornerstones.  Sew one strip to each side of the quilt top.  I like to think that this border gives the impression of running stitches or weaving around the quilt.

That completes the Aunt Sukeys choice quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Kinver cave houses

Kinver cave houses

In my travels last week I went on a wonderful walk in a nearby area called Kinver.  The point of the walk was to climb a hill with spectacular views over the countryside, but at the foot of the hill were several houses that had been built in caves.  They were absolutely fascinating.

Apparently they had been lived in until about fifty years ago.  Unfortunately I couldn’t go inside them that day, but I’ll definitely go back on another day when they are open to the public.  They would probably have been lovely and cool during our recent heatwave!

Victoria Square Quilt Block Pattern

Victoria Square quilt block

Victoria Square quilt block

The Victoria Square quilt block pattern is a stunner – it reminds me of green parks and pinwheel whirls.  There is a Victoria Square in Birmingham, but it’s more statues and steps rather than greenery.  The block is classified as a nine patch and I have made it here as an 18″ square.

Cutting requirements for the Victoria Square quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  four light green, four dark green, eight white

3.7/8″ squares:  six each in light green and white, four each in dark green and white




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in both light green and white and in dark green and white.  Place a white square right sides together with a green square and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ square either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This makes two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the green and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Central area

Central area

Make the Victoria Square quilt block central area

I’ve shown the layout in two stages.  The first section uses dark green and white only.  Place four dark green/white half square triangles in the middle to form a pinwheel.  On each edge of the pinwheel place a green and a white 3.1/2″ square.  In each case place the green square so that it touches the green triangle of the pinwheel.

In each corner place a dark green/white half square triangle.  Check the photo to be sure that you have the triangles placed correctly.

Victoria Square quilt block complete layout

Victoria Square quilt block complete layout

Complete the layout

Make the outer layer of this quilt block with only light green and white.  The pieces follow a pattern if you begin in the top left corner and follow the frame of the block around in a clockwise direction.

Across the top you have a light green triangle, green square, two light green triangles and a white square.  These form an upside down mountain first, then a larger white triangle pointing outwards and then a white square and white triangle next to each other.

The top right corner is a green/white half square triangle and then the other pieces follow in the same pattern down the right hand side of the block.  The same happens across the bottom of the block (working from right to left) and then again up the left hand side.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Victoria Square quilt block.

Basic quilt design

Basic quilt design

Quilt designs

I have shown first the basic quilt design with sixteen blocks arranged in four rows of four.  I’m not too keen on this as you lose the whirligig shape of the block design.

Alternate Victoria Square quilt design

Alternate Victoria Square quilt design

As an alternative I tried several different colours as well as the greens and was very pleased with this design.  You could either use a distinct pattern as I have done, or you could make every block a different colour as a scrappy quilt.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Tulip Tile Medallion Quilt Pattern

Tulip tile medallion quilt

Tulip tile medallion quilt

I’ve used the Tulip Tile quilt block to make a medallion in the middle of this pretty summery quilt pattern.  The quilt measures 48″ square and I have used 1 yard each of white and green fabrics with 3/4 yard of pink, 1/2 yard of batik and 1/4 yard of dark purple fabric.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.  I am also holding a belated sale – I normally hold this particular one in May, but didn’t have time last month.  So you can get 16% off all purchases over £5.  No coupon required – the discount will be taken automatically at the checkout.




Completed tulip tile medallion

Completed tulip tile medallion

Cutting requirements for the tulip tile medallion quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  for the tulip tile quilt medallion you will need twenty four purple, twenty four white, four pink and two green.  For the tulip frame you will need twenty four pink, twenty four batik squares.

3.7/8″ squares:  for the tulip tile quilt medallion you will need one each in pink and white, one each in batik and white, one each in pink and batik, two each in pink and green.  For the tulip frame you will need twenty four each in pink and white.

Cut seven 3.1/2″ strips of green fabric across the width of fabric for the two green frames.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Use all the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Strip piece the squares

Strip piece the tiles

Strip piece the tiles

The quickest way to make the tiles around the central tulip is by using strip piecing.  Sew together a 3.1/2″ strip each of purple and white.  Cut this panel at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This gives you rectangles 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ which are pairs of squares.  Using these speeds up the piecing of the central section.

First four rows

First four rows

Make the tulip tile quilt block

This block is made with eight rows of eight squares.  I’ve shown them four rows at a time.

Rows one and two are made with four pairs of purple/white squares.  The first row begins with a purple square while the second row begins with a white square.  In row three there’s a pair of purple/white square at each end.  In the middle there are two pink/white and two batik/white half square triangle units.  The fourth row also has a pair of purple/white squares at each end, but there are two pink squares and two pink/batik half square triangles in the middle of the row.

Second half of block

Second half of block

In the second half of the block rows five and six each have a pair of purple/white squares at each end.  Row five contains two pink squares and two pink/green half square triangles in the middle.  Place two green squares and two pink/green half square triangles in the middle of row six.

Lay four pairs of purple/white squares in both row seven and row eight.  Row seven begins with purple while row eight begins with white.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the tulip tile medallion quilt block.  This measures 24.1/2″ square.

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Cut 3.1/2″ strips of green fabric for this first frame.  You’ll need two lengths of 24.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 30.1/2″ for the sides.  The medallion now measures 30.1/2″ square.

Make the mini tulips

Mini tulip blocks

Mini tulip blocks

For the next frame I have chosen to use mini tulip blocks.  These are what I normally refer to as rosebud shapes, but for today I’m calling them tulip shapes!

Place two pink/white half square triangles diagonally opposite each other with the pink triangles touching at the middle to form a butterfly shape.  On the other diagonal place a pink square and a batik square.  Sew the squares together in pairs and then sew the pairs to each other.  This four patch block now measures 6.1/2″ square.  Make twenty four of these.

Sew together rows of tulips

Sew together rows of tulips

Add the tulip frame

Sew the tulip blocks together in two rows of five blocks and two rows of seven blocks.  You can choose which way you’d like to sew them together.  I have chosen to have all the tulips facing in the same direction.  They form a circuit around the medallion block.

I toyed with the idea of alternating the blocks to make zig zag shapes, but it didn’t look right to me because there are an odd number of blocks along each edge.

Sew the two rows of five blocks to the top and bottom of the quilt.  Then sew the two rows of seven blocks to the sides.  The quilt now measures 42.1/2″ square.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the tulip tile medallion quilt border

Lastly for the final border I have used the same 3.1/2″ strips of green fabric.  You’ll need two lengths of 42.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the tulip tile medallion quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Quilting fabrics

Quilting fabrics

I mentioned my fabric sale at the top of the page.  Just to repeat myself – I’m offering a discount of 16% on all sales over £5.  Click here to take a look at my quilting shop.

Rocky Mountain Puzzle Quilt Block Pattern

Rocky mountain puzzle quilt block

Rocky mountain puzzle quilt block

The Rocky Mountain Puzzle quilt block pattern reminds me of several blocks such as the Jacobs Ladder block, but I do like the white square in the middle.  You could use it to add a little colour to the block if you wanted to make it for a scrappy quilt.  It’s a four patch block and I have made it here as a 12″ square finished size.

Cutting requirements for the rocky mountain quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  three white

3.7/8″ squares:  five white, five brown

3.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  two brown

6.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  two brown




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares for this.  Place a brown and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This gives you two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.

Rocky mountain puzzle quilt block layout

Rocky mountain puzzle quilt block layout

Make the rocky mountain puzzle quilt block

Lay the squares out as shown.  Place a white square in the middle and in two diagonally opposite corners.  Place the small brown rectangles above and below the central square, with the longer rectangles on the sides.

The half square triangles are rather more easy to place than sometimes.  On the left hand side and across the top place five half square triangles with the brown triangle always in the bottom right.  For the left hand side and the bottom place five half square triangles with the brown triangle always in the top left.  I sometimes struggle with getting the triangle placements correct so it pleased me that these are so easy to place.

Partially sewn block

Partially sewn block

Assemble the block

First sew the rectangles to the top and bottom of the central square.  Then add the rectangles to the sides.  Sew the pairs of half square triangles together above and below the central square.  Then sew the square and three half square triangles together in a column on each side of the block.

Finally sew the three columns to each other to complete the quilt block.

Quilt design ideas

Basic quilt design

Basic quilt design

For the basic quilt idea I have shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.

I think that I would probably make this with more colours – maybe in the central square – to give the quilt a bit more interest.

Quilt with alternate blocks rotated

Quilt with alternate blocks rotated

As an alternative design, I have shown the same quilt but with alternate blocks rotated to create a little more for the eye to look at.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Log Cabin Cross Quilt Pattern

Log cabin cross quilt

Log cabin cross quilt

In the log cabin cross quilt I have used log cabin blocks along with stripey blocks which are made using the same fabrics in the same widths.  Just to mix things up a little, I’ve used different widths of logs.  I have also shaded one colour from dark to light and the other from light to dark.  That’s what I love about log cabin quilts – they are so simple and there are so many ways that you can vary the basic pattern.

The quilt measures 52″ by 76″.  I have used 1 yard each of light green and light purple, 3/4 yard each of dark green, medium purple and white, 1/2 yard each of medium green and dark purple.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed log cabin block

Completed log cabin block

Cutting requirements for the log cabin cross quilt

White:  twelve 3.1/2″ squares

Dark purple:  twelve 2.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ strips, twelve 2.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ strips

Medium purple:  twelve 2.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ strips, twelve 2.1/2″ by 8.1/2″ strips

Light purple:  twelve 2.1/2″ by 9.1/2″ strips, twelve 2.1/2″ by 11.1/2″ strips

Dark green:  twelve 1.1/2″ by 11.1/2″ strips, twelve 1.1/2″ by 12.1/2″ strips

Medium green:  twelve 1.1/2″ by 8.1/2″ strips, twelve 1.1/2″ by 9.1/2″

Light green:  twelve 1.1/2″ by 5.1/2″ strips, twelve 1.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ strips

For the alternate blocks you will need to cut four strips of each fabric in the widths they are used in the log cabins.  That’s 2.1/2″ in the purples, 1.1/2″ in the greens and 3.1/2″ in white

The final border is made using six 2.1/2″ strips of light green cut across the width of fabric.

First round of logs

First round of logs

Make the log cabin block first round

Use a 3.1/2″ white square for the central square.  This actually won’t finish up in the middle of the block because the logs are different widths, but it’s the starting point of the block.

Beneath that sew a 3.1/2″ dark purple strip.  On the right place a 5.1/2″ dark purple strip.  Across the top place a 5.1/2″ light green strip, followed by a 6.1/2″ light green strip on the left.

As you can see, the logs are all being sewn to the square in an anti-clockwise direction.  In other log cabins they may be sewn clockwise, but the important thing is to stick to one direction for each round of logs.

Second round of logs

Second round of logs

Second round of logs

Use the medium purple and green in this round.  Begin with the 6.1/2″ medium purple. Follow this with the 8.1/2″ medium purple.  Sew the 8.1/2″ medium green across the top.  Finish with the 9.1/2″ medium green on the left side.

Incidentally, you need to press this block at all stages, before you add another log.  Doing this increases the accuracy of the seams.  Always press the seam allowances away from the central square.

Third round of logs

Third round of logs

Third round of logs

Finally, make the third round of logs with the light purple and dark green strips.

Each block measures 12.1/2″ square at this stage.  Make twelve of them.

The alternate blocks

Make panels of strips

Make panels of strips

I had intended to make the stripey blocks as individual blocks.  Then I realised that this would be an enormous waste of time, so I am using the striped sections in panels.

Make the panels using all the fabrics cut in the same widths as they are used in the log cabin blocks.  So that’s 2.1/2″ strips of purple, 1.1/2″ strips of green and a 3.1/2″ white strip.

Assemble the log cabin cross quilt

Make row 1 with a 24.1/2″ striped panel.  Place this with the purple at the top as shown in the photo above.

Rows 2 and 4

Rows 2 and 4

In rows 2 and 4, place two log cabin blocks so that the dark green runs across the top of the pair.

Rows 3 and 5

Rows 3 and 5

Rotate the blocks for rows 3 and 5 so that the dark green runs across the bottom of the pair of blocks.

Finally for row 6 place a 24.1/2″ striped panel.  This time place the green at the top of the panel.

Sew the pairs of log cabin blocks together and then sew the rows to each other.

The sides of the quilt

The sides of the quilt

The sides of the quilt

For the sides of the quilt make up two 48.1/2″ lengths of the striped panel.  Sew a log cabin block to each end of these panels.  In the photo the middle section is folded up purely so that I can show you the blocks at each end.  Rotate the log cabin blocks so that the dark green forms the outer corners of the quilt.

Sew one panel to each side of the quilt.  The panel shown forms the right hand side of the quilt.  Place the other panel the other way up for the left hand side of the quilt.  That way you keep the dark green on the outside of the quilt.

Quilt border

Quilt border

Add the quilt border

Finally make up four 2.1/2″ strips of light green for the border.  Two lengths of 48.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the log cabin cross quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Cushions for labels

Cushions for labels

I mentioned recently that I had been to a National Trust property called Packwood House.  I didn’t have the space at the time to show you a really neat idea that they used for labels.  Usually you see printed labels on stands as you move around these properties.  However at this property they had the information printed on cushions.  I thought that was a lovely touch!

Bargello chairs

Bargello chairs

They also had some gorgeous chairs which were very similar to the Bargello chairs on display in Florence – only in much brighter colours.

It was a real treat to see them as well as some tapestries that were centuries old.

 

Flying Dutchman Quilt Block Pattern

Flying Dutchman quilt block

Flying Dutchman quilt block

The Flying Dutchman quilt block is an easy quilt block.  Whenever I use yellow fabric I always wonder I don’t use it more often as it’s such a bright and happy looking colour.  It’s classified as a four patch and I have made it here as a 12″ square.

Cutting requirements for the Flying Dutchman quilt block

3,1.2″ squares:  four white

3.7/8″ squares:  four each in yellow and white, two each in yellow and brown




Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place a white square right sides together with either a yellow or a brown square and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This gives you two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances away from the white and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Central area of the block

Central area of the block

Make the Flying Dutchman quilt block

For the central area of the block, make a four patch unit using the yellow/brown half square triangles.  Place these so that the brown triangles are on the outside across one diagonal and the yellow triangles are on the outside in the other diagonal.

The brown triangles in the middle form a butterfly shape, as do the two yellow triangles.

Full layout

Full layout

For the outer frame of this block place a yellow/white half square triangle in each corner with the white on the outside to form the corners of the block.  Around two corners place a yellow/white half square triangle on each side.  Place white squares around the other two corners.  On each edge of the block there are one white square and one yellow/white half square triangle between the two corners.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

Basic quilt design

Basic quilt design

Flying Dutchman quilt ideas

For the basic quilt design I have shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.

Alternate blocks rotated

Alternate blocks rotated

I think that a more interesting design is obtained when some of the blocks are rotated.

I rather like the way the brown seems to form circles.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

 

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