Reversible Butchers Apron – Free Pattern

Reversible butchers apron

Reversible butchers apron

I’ve made the reversible buthers apron as two distinct aprons in different colour pairings.  Then I sewed the two sections together.  This meant that I had no hand sewing to do and the neck loop and waist ties were all sewn in at the same time.

I used a straight central section so that I wouldn’t have to worry about matching up the seams from the chevrons on either side.

The butchers apron is 24″ wide and 33″ long.  I have used 3/4 yard each of black and blue with 1/2 yard each of red and white.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.

The reverse

The reverse

Cutting requirements for the butchers apron

Black and blue fabrics:  cut eight 2.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric, three 1.1/2″ strips cut across the width of fabric.

Red and white fabrics:  cut seven 2.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric.




Make panels of three strips

Make panels of three strips

Make the butchers apron front – right side

Sew together 2.1/2″ strips of black and red.  You need to make three panels of black, red, black and two panels of red, black, red.

One length of 35"

One length of 35″

Cut one of the panels into a 35″ length.  This will form the middle of the apron front.

You should now have four panels left – two of each type.  Use one of each type for each side of the apron.  Cut these into 20″ lengths, making eight panels altogether.

Cut a triangle from each end

Cut a triangle from each end

For the right hand side of the butchers apron,  take the top right corner of one panel and fold it down to the bottom edge. Take the bottom left corner of the panel and fold it up to the top edge.

Cut these two triangles off along the fold lines.  Repeat to make four panels – two of each type.

Alternate the strips

Alternate the strips

Lay these down the right hand side of the central strip.  Begin with a black/red/black and alternate the panels down the length so that the black and red strips alternate all the way down.

Sew the panels together and sew the resulting panel to the right hand side of the central strip.

Make the butchers apron left side

Fold triangles for the left side

Fold triangles for the left side

The panels on the left hand side need to be cut to the same sort of shape, but the triangles are folded in a different way.

On the left hand side of the panel, fold the top left corner down to the bottom edge.  On the right hand side, fold the bottom right corner up to the top edge.

Cut along the fold lines as before and repeat with the remaining three panels.  Make up a panel of alternating strips and sew this to the left hand side of the central strip.

Straighten the hemline

Straighten the hemline

Trim the sides of the apron front to straight lines – unless you are a more careful sewer than I am and your apron sides are already straight!

You also need to cut across the bottom to make a straight hemline.  I know that this seems a little wasteful of fabric, but I feel that this is the most simple way to make this apron

Cut across the hemline

Cut across the hemline

I find that the easiest way to trim the hem is to fold the apron front in half along the length and then when you cut across the width you can be sure that the hemline on the two sides will be even.

Use black and blue for the ties

Use black and blue for the ties

Make the ties

For the ties I have used one 1.1/2″ strip each of black and blue so that the ties will look correct no matter which way you wear the apron.

Sew along the length

Sew along the length

Sew a blue and a black strip together down the length.  Fold in half along the seam line.  You now have a strip 1.1/4″ wide which is black one side and blue the other side.  Fold under a 1/4″ hem in both the black and the blue to hide the raw edges and pin.

Topstitch along both sides of the strip.  Repeat with all the strips so that you end up with one for the neck and two for the waist ties.

Decide on the neck loop length

Decide on the neck loop length

I held the black apron against me to judge how long to make the neck loop.  I’ve said 30″ in the video, but that was actually a bit long.  I would probably have obtained a better fit with about 25″.  Measure what size you need for your neck loop – it needs to be short enough to hold the apron in place but long enough to fit easily over your head when you put the apron on.

Make the second apron front

Repeat the entire process with a different pair of colours – I have used blue and white which are perhaps more appropriate for a butchers apron.

Pin the ties in place

Pin the ties in place

Assemble the butchers apron

Lay the black apron with right side up.  Pin the ties in place.

The neck loop is placed either side of the central strip and the waist ties are placed at the corner – where my hand shows in the photo.

Remember to pin the ties with black side down.

Place the blue apron on top

Place the blue apron on top

Place the blue and white apron on top with right side down, matching all the edges and corners.  Pin.

Sew all round the edge of the apron leaving a gap of about 6″ so that you can turn the project right side out.

Leave a gap in the side

Leave a gap in the side

Pull the apron right side out through the gap.  Push all the edges and corners out and pin.  Turn under a small seam and pin to close the gap.

Top stitch all the way round the perimeter of the apron.  Apart from holding all the edges in place, this also closes the gap so that you don’t need to hand sew it.

Me modelling the apron

Me modelling the apron

The only way that I could think of to model the apron for you was to wear it in front of the mirror.

That completes the butchers apron pattern.  I hope that you’ll find it a useful pattern either for yourself or to make as a gift.

Here’s the video:

I seem to have spent another week working non stop – I really must try and get out more!  The photo that I would like to share with you is from when I went to the Safari Park with my daughter.  The baby rhino was absolutely gorgeous – running all over the place making mock charges at blades of grass.

 

Ducks Foot in the Mud Quilt Block Pattern

Ducks foot in the mud quilt block

Ducks foot in the mus quilt block

The name Ducks Foot in the Mud quilt block conjures up lovely images of a duck’s foot (or any foot) going splat in the mud.  I just had to make this one.  I’ve made it here as a rather large 21″ square.

It’s a traditional block, classified as a five patch.

Cutting requirements for the Ducks foot in the mud quilt block

6.1/2″ squares:  four turquoise

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  four blue

3.1/2″ squares:  nine white

3.7/8″ squares:  eight dark green, eight white




Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a dark green and a white square with right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangles.

Press the seam allowances towards the green and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Make the Ducks foot in the mud quilt block

Ducks foot in the mud quilt block layout

Ducks foot in the mud quilt block layout

I had intended to show you this block in quarters but in fact it’s such a simple layout that I’ll just show the entire layout at once.

Across the top and bottom rows there are white squares in the middle and at each end.  Between these place a pair of half square triangle units.  In each pair the triangles are placed the same way as each other.  I found that the easiest way to get the placement right was to make a butterfly shape around each white corner square.  Then it was easy to check the placement of all the other triangles.

In the second and fourth rows place a pair of half square triangles at each end with a turquoise square inside them.  Place the blue rectangle in the middle vertically.

The middle row contains a white square at each end and in the middle.  Between these place two blue rectangles horizontally.

Rows one, three and five can be sewn together easily.  For rows two and four you’ll need to sew the half square triangles together in pairs first and then sew the patchwork together across the rows.  Finally sew all the rows to each other to complete the Ducks foot in the mud quilt block.

Basic quilt suggestion

Basic quilt suggestion

Ducks foot in the mud quilt suggestions

I’ve made the basic quilt using nine blocks sewn together in three rows of three.  This layout forms lots of lovely shapes that form a grid around the turquoise and blue squares.

Alternate quilt design

Alternate quilt design

As an alternate quilt idea, I have added an alternate block made with 3.1/2″ squares of blue, turquoise and dark green.

I’m rather taken with this design.  I like the diamonds formed by the dark green squares.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Rainbow Medallion Quilt Pattern

Rainbow medallion quilt

Rainbow medallion quilt

The Rainbow Medallion quilt is a big, bright and cheerful rectangular quilt suitable for a double or queen sized bed.  I have used all the colours of the rainbow – Richard Of York Gained Battles In Vain.  I’ve begun with red in the middle, working out to violet on the outside.  The width of the strips also increases from 3″ finished size in the middle to 6″ strips for the violet fabric.

It measures 72″ by 82″ and I have used 1/4 yard each of orange and yellow fabrics, 1/2 yard each of red and green, 3/4 yard of blue, 1 yard of indigo, 1.1/4 yards of violet and 1.3/4 yards of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the rainbow medallion quilt

Red:  one 3.1/2″ square, eighteen 4.1/2″ squares

Orange rectangles:  two 3.1/2″ by 5.1/2″, two 3.1/2″ by 11.1/2″

Yellow rectangles:  two 4.1/2″ by 13.1/2″, two 4.1/2″ by 21.1/2″

Green rectangles:  two 4.1/2″ by 23.1/2″, two 4.1/2″ by 31.1/2″

Blue rectangles:  two 5.1/2″ by 33.1/2″, two 5.1/2″ by 43.1/2″

Indigo:  two 5.1/2″ by 45.1/2″, two 5.1/2″ by 55.1/2″

Violet:  two 6.1/2″ by 57.1/2″, two 6.1/2″ by 69.1/2″

White:  cut twenty three 1.1/2″ strips across the width of fabric, eight 2″ strips across the width of fabric, eighteen 4.1/2″ squares

Central area of the rainbow medallion quilt

Central area of the rainbow medallion quilt

Begin in the middle

Place the 3.1/2″ red square in the middle and sew 1.1/2″ white strips around it:  3.1/2″ above and below the square with 5.1/2″ strips down the sides.

Add the orange frame

Add the orange frame

Next add the orange frame.  Sew the 5.1/2″ rectangles to the top and bottom with the 11.1/2″ rectangles going down the sides.

Add a white frame using 11.1/2″ strips above and below the orange and 13.1/2″ strips down the sides.

Next add the yellow

Next add the yellow

For the yellow frame I have increased the width of strips to 4.1/2″.  Two lengths of 13.1/2″ for the top and bottom, two lengths of 21.1/2″ for the sides.  The white strips are 21.1/2″ and 23.1/2″ long.

The green frame

The green frame

Green comes next – I found a lovely William Morris print for this.  The width of rectangles has remained at 4.1/2″:  two lengths of 23.1/2″ and two lengths of 31.1/2″.   The white strips outside the green are 31.1/2″ and 33.1/2″ long.

Light blue for the next frame

Light blue for the next frame

Outer frames of the rainbow medallion quilt

Blue for battles – I have used a pretty light blue for this frame.  The width of the strips increases to 5.1/2″ for this frame.  You’ll need two lengths of 33.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 43.1/2″ for the sides.

The white strips are 43.1/2″ and 45.1/2″ long.

Indigo frame

Indigo frame

Indigo covers quite a wide range of colours, but I have a colour from the same range as the light blue which I think looks like indigo.  The strips widths remain at 5.1/2″ and you need two lengths of 45.1/2″ and two lengths of 55.1/2″.  For the white strips you need two lengths of 55.1/2″ and two lengths of 57.1/2″.

Violet frame

Violet frame

Violet is the last colour of the rainbow.  I have increased the strip width to 6.1/2″ for this frame.  You’ll need two lengths of 57.1/2″ and two lengths of 69.1/2″ in violet.

For the white frame outside the violet I have increased the size slightly to 2″ strips.  You need two lengths of  69.1/2″ and two lengths of 72.1/2″.

I increased the white strip width because I wanted to add 4″  squares along the top and bottom of the quilt.  In order to do this I wanted to make the overall width 72.1/2″.  Then a strip of eighteen squares would fit exactly across the width.  I toyed with the idea of sewing strips of squares all round the quilt, but decided to add them on the top and bottom only so that my quilt would become rectangular rather than square.

Sew red and white strips together

Sew red and white strips together

Add the border

I used strip piecing to make the red and white squares.  Sew together 4.1/2″ strips of red and white and then cut this panel at 4.1/2″ intervals.  This gives you rectangles 8.1/2″ by 4.1/2″ containing one red square and one white square.

Add the border

Add the border

Sew these together side by side to make strips of alternating red and white squares.  You need to make two lengths of eighteen squares (nine pairs of squares).  Sew one strip to the top and one to the bottom of the quilt.

Finally add a 1.1/2″ white strip at the top and one to the bottom.  That completes the rainbow medallion quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Holly's dragon

Holly’s dragon

I’m afraid that I’ve been working all week and haven’t got any travels to show you, so instead I thought I’d show you the dragon that I made for my grand daughter’s birthday.  It’s far too big for her, but I hope she’ll like it one day!

I made him from a kit that I bought at the Festival of Quilts and I think he’s gorgeous.

Quilted Over-Trousers – Useful Sewing Project

My quilted over-trousers

My quilted over-trousers

I’ve made my quilted over-trousers in readiness for a trip to Norway later this year.  They could also be useful here if we have a cold winter in the UK.

They are intended to be worn over my jeans – like a coat but for the legs.  I could have made my own quilted fabric, but it was actually much cheaper (and easier) to buy the ready quilted stuff.  As I wasn’t sure how they would turn out, I didn’t want to spend too much time on this project.

I bought two metres of fabric only – no zips or buttons.




Cut the pattern pieces

Cut the pattern pieces

The Quilted Over-Trousers Pattern

A good rummage among my patterns produced a very old pattern that suited my needs.  It’s Style 3811 but any pattern with loose trousers would have been fine.

What I was looking for was simplicity rather than fashion so I ignored darts and waist closures.

With the fabric doubled over I cut the back and the front. Then I cut the waistband on a single layer of fabric.

Sewing the quilted fabric

Sew a sample seam

Sew a sample seam

As the fabric is quite thick I did wonder whether I would need to put the walking foot on the sewing machine, but I tried a sample seam and decided that my normal sewing foot would cope well.

Before I unpinned the pattern pieces I marked B or F on them to denote back and front.  The pieces are very similar looking so it would have been easy to confuse them otherwise.

Make the quilted over-trousers

Sew the inside leg seams first

Sew the inside leg seams first

The first seams that I sewed were the inside legs, sewing front to back on each side.

Then I would have sewn the U shaped bit from front waist to back waist, but I realised that I needed to finish each seam before I began the next seam so I serged those two seams.

Next I sewed the two sections together along the U shape.

Sewing the two outer leg seams should have been the next easy step.  However I was feeling complacent at how well the project was going so I managed to sew the wrong two seams.  Hold the two pieces together and check that you are making a trouser shape before you actually sew them.

The final steps

Wearing my quilted over-trousers

Wearing my quilted over-trousers

When I tried the trousers on I realised that I didn’t need a waistband.  I had intended to add a waistband with a wide elastic band inside it, but these quilted over- trousers are going to sit on top of my jeans without needing any elastic.  What I hadn’t considered was that the waist needs to be wide enough to be pulled over the hips.  If I had done that, then an elasticated waistband would have been useful.  As it is, I shall really have to tug to get these trousers on when I’m wearing jeans.

So instead of a waistband I just turned under a hem around the waist and at the end of the legs.  The whole project (even with unpicking) took a few hours only.  I’m thrilled with my quilted over-trousers – they are just what I had envisioned and I hope they’ll keep me nice and warm during my Norwegian trip.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

 

 

 

Pouch and Tote Bag – Free Pattern

Pouch and tote bag

Pouch and tote bag

This pouch and tote bag is something that I have wanted to make for a long time.  It seemed such a simple idea – but it took me about three or four prototypes before I was happy with the measurements.  Anyway, the idea is that the tote bag is attached along the base to a zipped pouch.  The tote bag can be folded up and tucked inside the pouch so it takes up no room at all in your handbag, but is always there if you need it.

I have made the pouch in cotton canvas for extra strength and the tote bag in poplin to reduce bulk.  You can buy the kit for two of the bags at this week’s special offer.

Cutting requirements for the pouch and tote bag

Pouch:  two rectangles 4″ by 7″, one rectangle 12.1/2″ by 3.1/2″, one 18″ open ended zip (the sort where the two sides of the zip can be separated from each other.

Tote bag:  two 12″ squares and two 2.1/2″ strips cut across the width of fabric in blue.  In yellow you will need three 12″ by 4″ rectangles and one 2″ strip approximately 30″ long.




Curve the corners

Curve the corners

Make the pouch

Using a plate or something similar, mark a curve on each corner of the canvas rectangles and cut the corners along the curves.  Having curves rather than straight edged corners makes it more easy to attach the zip.

Pin the rectangle to the zip

Pin the rectangle to the zip

Start off with the zip intact just to make sure that you have everything the right way round.  Place the zip right side down and one of the rectangles on it also with right side down – so the right side of the fabric lies against the wrong side of the zip.

Pin the zip to the rectangle

Pin the zip to the rectangle

Pin the zip all round the rectangle.  After the first pin or two you can separate the parts of the zip to make the pinning easier.  You need to ease the zip around the curves in the fabric.

Repeat with the second side of the zip on the second rectangle.  Again you want the fabric and the zip both right side down.

Connect the two sides of the zip up again just to make sure that the two sides of the pouch match up.  Then baste all round each rectangle.

Zigzag with black thread

Zigzag with black thread

Finally sew the zip and fabric together.  I used a black thread and a small zigzag stitch – about 2 both for width and stitch length on my machine.

You can now put the two sections of pouch aside while you make the next section.

Make the tote bag straps

Make the tote bag straps

Make the tote bag straps

Sew together two 2.1/2″ strips of blue fabric along the length 1/4″ from each edge with right sides together.

Top stitch the straps

Top stitch the straps

Cut in half and then turn the individual straps right side out.  Press and then sew a seam 1/4″ from each edge to hold the straps in place.

Layout for tote bag body

Layout for tote bag body

Make the tote bag body

I’ve used yellow for the gussets on this bag in the hope that it will be easier for you to see what I’m doing.  I’ve used a slightly different technique to make the tote bag so that I can keep fabric bulk to a minimum.

Sew the sections together

Sew the sections together

Place a yellow strip to the right of one of the blue squares with a yellow strip across the bottom  Place a yellow strip to the left of the second blue square.  Sew the two side gussets to the blue squares.

The top section will be the front of the bag, the horizontal yellow strip will be the base of the bag and the bottom section will form the back of the bag.  Sew the two blue squares to the horizontal gusset.

The back panel will be folded up to make the bag.  I made the mistake here of placing both squares right way up.  In fact I should have placed the bottom square upside down so that it would be right side up on the finished bag.  Obviously this only applies if your fabric is directional.

Join the top to the base gusset

Join the top to the base gusset

Place the corners of the side gussets to the corners of the horizontal gusset as shown in the photo.

Join the bottom to the base gusset

Join the bottom to the base gusset

This joins the two side gussets to the base gusset.

If you are confident enough, you could then pivot and sew up the side seams but I am showing this as a separate step for clarity.

Sew the side seams

Sew the side seams

Fold the back section up so that it is right sides together with the front section.  Sew the two side seams, taking care at the bottom that you don’t include extra fabric in the stitching.

Pin the straps in place

Pin the straps in place

Complete the tote bag

Place a pin half way across the blue square.  You can then use this to make sure that your straps are the same distance from the middle.  Pin the straps in place.

Pin the facing in place

Pin the facing in place

Use the 2″ strip of yellow fabric for the facing.  With right sides together, pin it around the top of the tote bag, covering the straps.

Sew all round the top, securing the straps, facing and tote bag together.

Flip the facing to the inside

Flip the facing to the inside

Flip the facing to the inside.  Sew a line of top stitching around the bag to hold everything together.  Turn under a small hem on the bottom of the facing and sew it to the inside of the bag.

Pin the pouch lining to the tote bag

Pin the pouch lining to the tote bag

Join the pouch lining and tote bag

Pin the pouch lining to the base of the tote bag, right sides together.  I haven’t sewn them together across the entire length because I didn’t want to sew across the seam. Instead I have sewn these sections together by means of a square of stitching at each end.

Sew a square at each end

Sew a square at each end

The weight of your shopping will be on the base of the bag, not the pouch or its lining, so there’s no need to worry about the stitching not going the whole way across.  In the photo you can see roughly where I put a square of stitching.

Join the two pouch sections

Join the two pouch sections

Join the pouch lining and the pouch

Final steps now!  Zip up the pouch and mark a point where you can sew the two pouch sections together.  You need to have the zip done up to be sure that you get two points that lie next to each other.  Put a couple of stitches in to hold the two sections together.

Lay the pouch lining (with tote bag attached) on top of the pouch and pin in place.  Turn under a small hem and sew the lining to the pouch.  Here again I have not sewn right the way across because I didn’t want to get in the way of the zip.

Sew the lining to the pouch

Sew the lining to the pouch

I sewed around the short edges at either end and a short way along the length.  Then I just used a running stitch to hold the seam allowance in place across the middle. After that I resumed slipstitching around the other short edge.

The photo shows how the lining doesn’t reach to the edge of the pouch.  If I hadn’t been so short of time I would probably have made a new, larger lining.

You can now fold your tote bag up, tuck it into the pouch and do up the zip.  Ready to use.

Here’s the video:

Kenilworth Castle

Kenilworth Castle

Last week I visited Kenilworth Castle.  This began life as a medieval fortress and then became a castle that Queen Elizabeth I gave to her close friend Robert Dudley, the Earl of Leicester.  He made huge developments to it in his efforts to please the Queen.

Windows

Windows

Although it is mostly ruins now, it has a real presence and you can just imagine it full of Elizabethan figures.  It happened to be the day that here in the UK we had a red sun so that really added to the atmosphere of the place.

My camera is refusing to give up the photos that I took, so I have used the English Heritage images from their site.

Single Strip Cushion Cover – Easiest Cover Ever

Halloween cushion cover

Halloween cushion cover

The single strip cushion cover is easily the most simple and easy cushion/pillow cover you could hope to make.  It’s a great standby if you need to make something really quickly as a gift – or for charity sales.  It has an envelope closing at the back rather than a zip, which of course cuts the time enormously.  I’ve made it here to fit a 16″ cushion pad.

Cutting requirements for single strip cushion cover

One 16″ strip of fabric cut across the width of fabric




Mark the central panel

Mark the central panel

Make the single strip cushion cover

Finish the edges of your strip of fabric – I have used my serger, but you could zigzag or use pinking shears or whatever method you normally use.

Fold the fabric in half to find the midpoint and mark this with pins.  Measure up 8″ and down 8″ from the central line and mark these lines with pins as well.

Turn under a hem on each end

Turn under a hem on each end

Turn under a small hem on both the short edges.

Lay the fabric with right side up and fold the top edge down till the fold matches the top line that you marked with pins.

Fold the edges along the marked lines

Fold the edges along the marked lines

Repeat with the lower edge – fold it up until the fold matches the lowest line that you marked with pins.  Pin carefully down the sides, making sure that you catch all the layers of fabric.

Sew a seam down each side.  That completes the single strip cushion cover!  It really is the most simple method imaginable.

Single strip cushion cover

Single strip cushion cover

Remove the pins and pull the cushion cover right side out through the envelope opening.  Hindsight being a wonderful thing, I realise now that I should have cut the strip shorter before I began.  The trouble was that I was fixated on the idea of using one width of fabric.  In fact, I have ended up with more overlap than I would like, making it more difficult to insert the cushion pad.  If I was making this again, I think that I would cut about 6″ off the length of the fabric.  You can always make a small clutch bag with the bit that you cut off.

Just for fun, I made another single strip cushion cover using a see through Halloween fabric.  It’s a black organza type fabric with silver spiderwebs on it.  Because it’s see through the pink shows through and gives a very attractive cushion.  That’s the one in the photo at the top of the page.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Flamingo Quilt Pattern – Tropicana Fabrics

Flamingo quilt

Flamingo quilt

For the Flamingo quilt pattern I have used fabrics from a lovely new range called Tropicana by Fabric Freedom.  I have based the block on the golden gate quilt block, using twelve 18″ blocks sewn together in four rows of three.

The rectangular quilt measures 62″ by 80″.  I have used 1 yard of pink fabric, 1.1/2 yards of green, 1/2 yard of the flamingo fabric, 3/4 yard of the tropical leaves fabric, with 1 yard of the large leaves and 1.1/4 yards of the small leaves fabric.

All these fabrics are available at a 10″ discount in this week’s special offer, but in addition I am holding a 12% sale this week (details below) to celebrate the new look to my shop.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the flamingo quilt

6.7/8″ squares:  twenty four pink, twenty four large leaves fabric

6.1/2″ squares:  twelve flamingo

6,1.2″ by 2.1/2″ rectangles:  ninety six small leaves, forty eight green – cut sixteen and eight strips across the width of fabric for these

For the borders you will need fifteen 1.1/2″ green strips and eight 2.1/2″ tropical leaves strips, all cut across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangles

Use the 6.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a pink and a large leaves square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Mark a seam along one diagonal and sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line.  Cut along the line to produce two half square triangle units.  These are now 6.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the pink triangle and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Make the stripey blocks

Make the stripey blocks

Make the stripey blocks

Sew together 2.1/2″ strips of green and small leaves fabric for this block.  Use a light fabric on either side with a dark fabric in the middle.

Cut these panels at 6.1/2″ intervals to make 6.1/2″ squares.  You need four of these for each block – forty eight in total.

Flamingo quilt block layout

Flamingo quilt block layout

Make the flamingo quilt block

The block itself is very easy to make – a simple nine patch block.

Place a flamingo block in the middle with a stripey block on each edge of the central square.  Place these so that in two of them the stripes are horizontal while in the other two they are vertical.  This way they form a frame around the central square.

Place a half square triangle unit in each corner of the block, always with the pink on the outside forming the corners of the block.  The pink was chosen to tie in with the flamingoes and has the lovely name of Hot Pink!

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows together.  The blocks measure 18.1/2″ square at this stage and you need to make twelve of them.

Assemble the flamingo quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of three.  The blocks are symmetrical so it doesn’t matter which way you sew them unless like me you are using a directional fabric.  I made sure that I kept the flamingoes standing the right way up when I sewed the blocks together.

Three quilt borders

Three quilt borders

Add the quilt borders

I had intended to use one border only.  However I decided that the quilt deserved more of a frame so I ended up with three borders.

I made the first border using 1.1/2″ strips of green:  two lengths of 54.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 74.1/2″ for the sides.

For the second border I used 2.1/2″ strips of a new fabric called Tropical Leaves.  I needed two lengths of 56.1/2″ for top and bottom with two lengths of 78.1/2″ for the sides.

Finally for the third border I returned to the 1.1/2″ strips of green – two lengths of 60.1/2″ for the top and bottom with two lengths of 80.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Flamingo quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Stepping stones

Stepping stones

I was asked for an image of the stepping stones in my garden so here it is.  Apologies for the shadow of the friend with his spade who helped me – I didn’t notice it till this morning.

They mean that I should be able to walk to my workshop in the winter without my feet sinking in to soggy grass.

New shop design

Now the big news this week is that I have a new home page on my shop.  It was suggested to me by the people who run the shopping cart side of things.  It was terribly stressful when they began work because they were emphasising what I thought were all the wrong things and using photos from the internet rather than my own photos.  Luckily we managed to agree things eventually and I am thrilled with the results – much more professional looking than it used to be.

In order to celebrate the new look  I am holding an autumn sale – 12% off all purchases over £5 throughout the shop.  No coupon code needed – the discount will be applied automatically at the checkout.  You can browse the shop here.

Friendship Chain Quilt Block Pattern

Friendship chain quilt block

Friendship chain quilt block

I’ve made the Friendship Chain quilt block as a 12″ square finished size.  The block makes up easily – pretty in its own right and also useful as an autograph quilt block.  Use the diamonds in the middle of each block for signatures.

The block is made entirely with half square triangles.

Cutting requirements for the friendship chain quilt block

3.7/8″ squares:  eight blue, eight white




Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use all the squares to make half square triangle units.  Place a blue and a white square right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.  This helps reduce bulk in the seams.

Outer frame

Outer frame

Make the friendship chain quilt block

I’m showing the outer frame first because I think it’s much clearer to see how this frame is laid out when there’s nothing else to distract your eye.

Place the squares with the blue triangles forming larger triangles.  Lay one pair on the top with the blue triangle pointing up, another at the bottom with the blue triangle pointing down.  Down each side place two pairs of squares with the larger blue triangles pointing in towards the middle.

Friendship chain quilt block layout

Friendship chain quilt block layout

Now add the four squares in the middle.  Place these so that the white triangles form a diamond.

Sew the squares across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

Basic quilt

Basic quilt

Friendship Chain quilt ideas

The basic quilt shown here uses sixteen blocks laid out in four rows of four.

This makes a 48″ square quilt (without the borders).

Use red for alternate blocks

Use red for alternate blocks

As an alternative I tried making alternate blocks with red instead of blue.  This definitely makes a more interesting quilt.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

 

Wine Tote Bag Pattern – Tutorial

Wine tote bag

Wine tote bag

This wine tote bag has been made following a request, but it is something that I had thought about making before now.  I wanted to create a bag that would carry two bottles of wine without any risk of them clanking together and I think that I have achieved this.  I’ve put a padded ring around each bottle and used a gusset to help the bottles to stay upright.  What a great gift this would make.

The body of the wine tote bag is 14″ high by about 12″ wide.  You can buy the kit at wine bag tote kit.

The fabric required is 3/4 yard each of pink and white with 1/2 yard of green.  Obviously the choice of Love fabric for a wine tote bag is totally coincidental!  I chose to use green for the bottle rings and the facing mainly so that it would be clearer for you to see what I’m doing.




Cutting requirements for the wine tote bag

4.1/2″ by 14.1/2″ rectangles:  four pink, six white

2,1.2″ by 32.1/2″ strips:  two white

12,1.2″ by 14.1/2″ strips:  two pink

For the straps you need to cut a 2.1/2″ strip each of pink and white across the width of fabric.

For the bottle rings you need four 6″ by 13″ rectangles and two 4″ by 11″ wadding pieces.

Cut a strip 1.1/2″ wide by the width of fabric in green for the facing.

Sew the strips together

Sew the strips together

Make the outer section

Sew together four rectangles each of pink and white (4.1/2″ by 14.1/2″) to make a panel eight strips across by 14.1/2″ high.  Add a gusset strip of light fabric (2.1/2″ by 32.1/2″) across the bottom of the panel.

Sew the left and bottom seams

Sew the left and bottom seams

Fold the panel in half and sew down the right hand side and across the bottom to create a pouch.

Pull the fabrics apart

Pull the fabrics apart

In order to create a flat section across the bottom of the bag, pull the two fabrics apart at one bottom corner.

Fold the triangle down

Fold the triangle down

You’ll see a triangle forming in the corner.  Pin the sides of the triangle and fold the triangle down so that it lies flat across the bottom of the bag (the two 2.1/2″ white strips).  Sew the top of the triangle to the seam.

Sew the gusset seam in place

Sew the gusset seam in place

Turn the bag right side out and sew along the seam in the corner formed when you folded the triangle down.  You may find the video helps with this bit if you’ve not made gussets before now.

Outer bag

Outer bag

That completes the outer wine tote bag.

Make the bottle rings

Layer the bottle rings

Layer the bottle rings

I’ve made the rings to enclose the wine bottles in green for clarity.  Lay down two green rectangles with right sides together.  Add a wadding rectangle on top and pin.

Sew down the two 13″ edges to create a tube.  This stitching does not touch the wadding, so leave the pins in while you turn the tube right side out.

In order to hold the three layers together I have quilted a few squiggles just to stop the layers moving against each other.  You can just run a line of stitching along the middle if you prefer – it’ll achieve the same thing.

The wadding is cut smaller than the green rectangles to reduce the bulk in the seams.

Make the lining bag

Layout for the lining bag

Layout for the lining bag

Make the lining bag in a similar fashion, but using larger sections of fabric.  Place a 12.1/2″ pink rectangle and a 4.1/2″ white strip together twice.

Fold the green rectangles in half and pin one to the left hand edge of each pink rectangle.  The raw edges of the green rectangles are to the left with the folded edges to the right.  Sew the pieces together to create a panel 13.1/2″ by 32.1/2″.

Add a 2.1/2″ white strip across the bottom for the gusset.

Create triangles in the bottom corners

Create triangles in the bottom corners

Fold the panel in half and sew down the right hand side and across the bottom to form a pouch as for the outer bag.

Pull the fabrics apart in the bottom corners to make triangles, again as for the outer bag.  Sew these triangles in place.

Sew the strips together

Sew the strips together

Make the straps

With right sides together sew the 2.1/2″ strips of pink and white along the length.  Cut at the half way point to make two straps.  Turn these right side out and press.  Sew a seam 1/4″ in from each edge to strengthen the straps.

Pin the straps in place

Pin the straps in place

Assemble the wine tote bag

With the outer bag right side out and the lining bag wrong side out, push the lining bag inside the outer bag and pin the raw edges together all round the top.

Decide where the central point of the outer bag is and lay one strap so that the two ends are the same distance away from the middle point.  I’ve placed them so that the pink is against the outer bag.  Hold the straps up so that you can see that they aren’t twisted before you pin them in place.  The raw edges are at the top in line with the raw edges of the outer bag.  Repeat on the other side of the bag with the second strap.

Pin the facing

Pin the facing

Add the facing

Beginning at one side of the outer bag, pin the facing strip with right side down all round the top of the bag.  Turn back about 1/2″ at each end of the facing – shown on the left of the photo.  I prefer not to sew the two ends of the facing together at this stage – then I can adjust the end when I sew it.

Sew all round the top of the bag – the lining bag, outer bag, facing and straps can all be sewn together in the one seam.

Sew the facing to the lining

Sew the facing to the lining

Flip the facing to the inside.  Turn under a small hem and sew the facing to the lining bag.

Add the wine

Add the wine

Fill the bag!

Place a bottle of wine within a green ring to protect it and hold it in place.  Add another.

I feel that I’ve achieved what I intended with this wine tote bag pattern and I hope you find it useful – to make as gifts or for charity stalls.

Here’s the video:

Tewkesbury Abbey

Tewkesbury Abbey

Recently I visited a friend in Tewkesbury and obviously had to take a trip to the Abbey.  What a stunning building it is, with a real atmosphere inside.  It’s a former Benedictine Monastery and is the second largest parish church in the country.  According to Wikipedia work was begun on the building in the 12th century.  I’m sure we can rely on Claire to find some facts about the Abbey that I didn’t know!

Tewkesbury Abbey chair challenge

Tewkesbury Abbey chair challenge

They are holding a Chair Challenge for charity at the moment and there were decorated chairs arranged all round the interior – absolutely fascinating.

Thrifty Quilt Block Pattern and Tutorial

Thrifty quilt block

Thrifty quilt block

The Thrifty quilt block is incredibly easy to make, but I rather like the three dimensional effect.  To me it looks as though there is a large pink square behind the brown squares.  It’s a traditional nine patch block that is attributed to the Kansas City Star company.  I’ve made it here as a 12″ square finished size.

Cutting requirements for the thrifty quilt block

2.1/2″ squares:  eight pink, eight white

4.1/2″ squares:  four brown, one pink




Thrifty quilt block layout

Thrifty quilt block layout

Make the thrifty quilt block

Lay the patchwork pieces out in a series of nine patch units and plain squares.

In each corner place a four patch unit made with two pink and two white 2.1/2″ squares.  Make sure that the pink squares always lie along the diagonals, with the white squares in the other positions.

Place a 4.1/2″ square in the middle with a brown square on each edge of the central square.

Sew the 4 patch units first

Sew the 4 patch units first

Sew the small squares together within each four patch unit.

This makes all the squares the same size, so that you now have three rows of three squares.  Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the thrifty quilt block.

Basic quilt idea

Basic quilt idea

Thrifty quilt design suggestions

For the basic quilt idea I have shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.  Interestingly, it now looks as though the pink and white squares are the main block, rather than the brown and pink squares.

Alternate quilt design

Alternate quilt design

In order to break the blocks up a bit, I then tried adding a large pinwheel as an alternate block.

I like this design far better – lots more to look at within the quilt.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

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