About Rose

Tippecanoe Quilt – Free Pattern

Tippecanoe quilt

Tippecanoe quilt

The Tippecanoe quilt is a little different from my usual in that you need  to use templates, but it is still a very easy quilt to make.  It seems that the tippecanoe quilt block is named for an 1811 battle in Indiana, America.

I have made the quilt 40″ square – a decent size for a lap quilt pattern.  I used thirty six blocks, all 6″ square finished size.  The fabric requirements are 1/4 yard each of yellow and medium blue, 1/2 yard each of brown and light blue, with 3/4 yard of dark blue.

You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed blocks

Completed blocks

Cutting requirements for the Tippecanoe quilt

6.1/2″ squares:  eight light blue, six medium blue and six dark blue

tippecanoe templates:  sixteen of each template

For the border you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue across the width of fabric.

First template

Second template

I apologise for the two templates being separate, but I couldn’t work out how to make them into one document.

Print and cut out the templates

Print and cut out the templates

Cut the patchwork pieces

You can print the templates here and here.  The dark line is the sewing line and the outer dotted line is the cutting line.  I find it best to label each template with the fabric colour as well, just to avoid confusion as you cut the pieces.

Cut the yellow triangles

Cut the yellow triangles

From the yellow fabric cut 7.3/8″ strips of fabric across the width.  Lay the template on the fabric with the base of the triangle in line with the edge of the fabric.  Make two cuts for the sides of the triangle and then you just need to clip the corners.

If you line the base of the triangle with first the bottom and then the top of the fabric you can cut the maximum number of triangles from each strip of fabric.

Cut the large brown triangles

Cut the large brown triangles

For the brown large triangles use 3.5/8″ strips of brown fabric.  If you cut your templates from fabric folded in half, as it comes from the shop, you’ll find that you get both triangles from one template.

Cut the small triangles

Cut the small triangles

Finally for the small brown triangle I used 3.7/8″ strips of brown fabric because that’s what EQ7 suggested.  I think that I could probably have cut them from the same 3.5/8″ strips that I used for the larger triangles.

You need to cut sixteen of each template piece.

Add the small triangle

Add the small triangle

Make the tippecanoe quilt block

Sew the small triangle to the base of the yellow triangle.  Press with the seam alllowance away from the yellow.

Add the side triangles

Add the side triangles

Add the side triangles one at a time, pressing the first triangle open before adding the second.  The progression in the photo goes down the left hand side and then down the right hand side.

Trim the edges to straighten the sides.  The block now measures 6.1/2″ square and you need to make sixteen of these.

Cut 6.1/2″ squares of light, medium and dark blue.  You need eight light blue, six medium blue and six dark blue.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the tippecanoe quilt

Sew the blocks together in six rows of six.  Make the first row with a pair of tippecanoe blocks in the middle and one at each end.  Place light blue squares in the remaining two spaces.  Note the direction of the yellow triangles.  At each end of the row they point towards the corner of the quilt.  In the middle the first yellow triangle points to bottom left while the second one points to top right.

Row two

Row two

Rows two and five are both made with blue squares only.  Make row 2 with light, dark medium, dark, medium, light blue squares.  The layout for row five is slightly different:  light, medium dark, medium, dark light.

The idea is for the medium and dark blue squares to alternate around the central section.

Row three

Row three

Rows three and four contain the same blocks as each other.  In row three place a tippecanoe block at each end and two in the middle.  The yellow triangles point to top left in the first, third and sixth blocks.  In the fourth block it points to top right.  Place a medium blue square in second position and dark blue in the fifth.

Row four

Row four

Last three rows

Lay the same blocks out for the fourth row.  This time the yellow triangles point to bottom right in the first, fourth and sixth positions.  The triangle in the third position points to bottom left.  Place the dark blue square in the second position and the medium blue in fifth position.

Row six

Row six

Row six contains the same blocks as row one but the yellow triangles are placed in different directions.  At each end they point down towards the corners of the quilt.  In the middle pair the yellow triangle points first to bottom left and then to top right.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Finish the quilt

Sew the blocks together in rows and then sew the rows to each other.

For the border I’ve used 2.1/2″ strips of dark blue.  You need two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom, with two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the Tippecanoe quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Quilting on Minnie

Quilting on Minnie

Last week I mentioned that I had finally sorted out Minnie, my longarm quilting machine.  Well, I’ve begun quilting the Plaid quilt on her.  I can’t tell you how good it felt to finally get going.  Naturally, I was also hugely relieved that it went so well.

I had been very nervous that after the move I might have some of the problems with tension (mine and hers!) that I’d had when I first bought her, but it all went really smoothly.

I had picked up some pretty tartan fabric in the rag market and I’m using that for the backing.  It’s brushed cotton so it should make the quilt feel nice and warm to curl up in.

Swallow Quilt Block – Free Pattern

Swallow quilt block

Swallow quilt block

I’ve made the Swallow quilt block as promised last week.  This time I have made it correctly!  I have made it as a 12″ square.  It’s very straightforward to make apart from the one corner that I made incorrectly last week when I made the hummingbird quilt block.

Cutting requirements for the swallow quilt block

6.1/2″ square:  one blue

3.7/8″ squares:  four blue, four white

3.1/2″ squares:  two white

2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  one blue, two white

5″ by 2″ rectangles:  one blue, one white

2.3/8″ squares:  two blue




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make the larger half square triangle units.  Place a blue and a white square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.

Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This produces two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the blue and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.  The four squares of each colour will make eight half square triangles, but you only need seven for the swallow quilt block.

Make the rectangle sections

Make the rectangle sections

Make the rectangle sections

I’m using a different method to make the smaller triangles in the bottom right corner of the block.

Place a 2.3/8″ blue square on the end of a white 3.1/2″ rectangle and a white 5″ rectangle.  Line up the edges at the end of the rectangle.  The blue squares are slightly wider than the rectangles which will make the final triangles the correct size.

Note that the pin runs from top left to bottom right on the 5″ rectangle, but from bottom left to top right on the 3.1/2″ rectangle.

Trim the excess triangles

Trim the excess triangles

Sew a seam along the pin line, following the diagonal of the square.  Cut along a line 1/4″ outside the seam line.  Discard the two triangles – one white and one blue – created.

Press the remaining triangle back so that you now have a white rectangle with a blue triangle at the end.

Sew blue rectangles to the white ones

Sew blue rectangles to the white ones

Sew a blue rectangle to each white rectangle.

Note that the blue rectangle is on the right of one white rectangle but on the left of the other one.

Swallow quilt block layout

Swallow quilt block layout

Make the swallow quilt block

Place the 6.1/2″ blue square in the middle of the block.  Lay three half square triangles and a white square across the top of the block.

Add two half square triangles to the left hand side of the central square.  These are all placed so that the blue triangle is placed bottom right.

Across the bottom row lay a white square, a half square triangle and the smaller of the two rectangle sections.  Make the right hand column with a white square, a half square triangle and the larger rectangle section with a white rectangle beneath it.  Note that the half square triangles are now placed so that the blue triangle is top left.

Make three columns

Make three columns

Sew the patchwork pieces together in three columns and then sew the columns to each other to complete the Swallow quilt block.

Basic swallow quilt design

Basic swallow quilt design

Quilt design ideas

For the first quilt I have just shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four – a flock of swallows.  I’m sure somebody out there can tell me the collective noun for swallows!

Alternate quilt design

Alternate quilt design

For the second quilt idea, I have rotated the blocks, added some plain red blocks and also used a red square for the middle of some of the swallow blocks.  Needless to say, I find this a far more interesting quilt.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Anniversary Dog Quilt – Free Pattern

Anniversary dog quilt

Anniversary dog quilt

I’ve named the Anniversary Dog quilt after two totally different things.  The first is that the design comes from a wall in a restaurant that I went to in London last weekend.  I had been to watch the Anniversary Games held in the Olympic Stadium (more about that at the end of the page).  The second totally separate reason for the name is that I’ve used all the fabrics from a new range of dog fabrics that I have just bought.

The quilt is rectangular, measuring 49″ by 64″.  I’ve used twelve blocks which are all 15″ square finished size.  The fabric requirement is for 3/4 yard of each of five different fabrics with just 1/4 yard of light blue.  I’ve tried to call the fabrics in shades of blue rather than just the pattern on the fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt block

Completed quilt block

Cutting requirements for the Anniversary Dog quilt

Light blue fabric (dog breeds):  thirty six 3.1/2″ squares

Medium blue fabric (words):  twelve 6.1/2″ squares, twelve 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles

Dark blue fabric (bones):  twenty four 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles

The wall that inspired the quilt design

The wall that inspired the quilt design

White fabric (dog silhouettes):  twelve 6.1/2″ squares, twelve 6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles, twelve 3.1/2″ squares

Red fabric:  twelve 15.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles

For the border you will need to cut six 2.1/2″ strips of a sixth fabric across the width of fabric.

The block is most easily made in two completely separate halves

Make the top half of the block

Top half of the block

Top half of the block

Begin with a 6.1/2″ medium blue square on the left.  Next to this place a white rectangle and a light blue square with a light blue square and a dark blue rectangle beneath them.

Sew the pieces across the two right hand rows and then sew the two rows to each other.  Sew this section to the square on the left.

It’s an incredibly simple design, but it just struck me as  delightful when I saw it on the wall.

Make the lower half of the block

Lower half of the block

Lower half of the block

This is very similar to the top half, but place the large 6.1/2″ square on the right this time.  Working from the left, place a light blue square and a dark blue rectangle with a medium blue rectangle and light blue square beneath them.  Place a large white square on the right.

Once again sew the rectangles to the small squares and then sew these two rows to each other.  Sew this panel to the white square on the right.

Completing the block

Add red sashing

Add red sashing

I had intended to sew these two sections of the block together to make a rectangular block, but when I put several of them together they just looked a muddle.  So I decided to add a red strip across the middle between the two sections.  I felt that this would help me give some structure to the quilt design.

It also makes the block square, although that was not my primary objective.

Sew a red sashing strip between the top and lower half of the block.

The block now measures 15.1/2″ square and you need to make twelve of these.

Row one

Row one

Assemble the anniversary dog quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of three blocks.

In the first row the red stripes are all vertical.  I’m using the red stripes and the medium blue large squares to define how to place each block.  The blue squares are placed bottom left, bottom left and then top right.

Row two

Row two

For the second row, the red stripes are vertical then horizontal then vertical again.

Place the medium blue squares bottom left, bottom right and then top right.

Row three

Row three

In row three the red stripes are again vertical then horizontal and then vertical.  Place the medium blue squares bottom left, top left and then top right.

Row four

Row four

Finally for row four place the red stripes all vertically.  The medium blue squares lie bottom left, top right and top right.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

For the border you will need to sew two lengths of 45.1/2″ for the top and bottom of the quilt, with two lengths of 64.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the anniversary dog quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

The Monument in London

The Monument in London

The Anniversary Games are held each year in the former Olympic Stadium in London.  Last weekend was the first time that I had visited the Stadium and it was a real treat to see some of the great stars of athletics in action.  Mo Farah is retiring this year so it was a privilege to see him running.

We also had time for some sightseeing and went to see the Monument which commemorates the Great Fire of London in 1666.  The tower was built a few years later to celebrate the re building of London and it still dominates the area even all these centuries later.

Hummingbird Quilt Block Pattern

Hummingbird quilt block

Hummingbird quilt block

The Hummingbird quilt block began life as a mistake.  Then I realised that I liked it as it was, so I kept going.  Originally I intended to write a pattern for the Swallows quilt block.  When I put the pieces together I realised that I had miscalculated and had made a totally different block.  However it looked like a hummingbird hovering outside a large trumpet flower, so that’s how it came by its name.

I’ve made it here as a 12″ square finished size.  Although I have used only one colour plus white, I think that I would make it in several different colours if I made it again.




Cutting requirements for the Hummingbird quilt block

6.1/2″ squares:  one purple

3.7/8″ squares:  four purple, four white

3.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  one purple, one white

6.1/2″ by 2″ rectangles:  one purple, one white

2.3/8″ squares:  two purple

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangles.  Place a white and a purple square with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.

The four squares of each colour will actually give you eight units although you will only need seven of them for the hummingbird quilt block.

Place purple squares on the white rectangles

Place purple squares on the white rectangles

Make the rectangle sections

Place a 2.3/8″ purple square on one end of each of the white rectangles.  The squares will overlap slightly on either side of the rectangles.  This is intentional!

Pin the square to the 6.1/2″ rectangle running from top left to bottom right of the square.  Repeat with the 3.1/22 rectangle, but this time have the pins running from bottom left to top right.

Sew along the two pin lines to secure the squares to the rectangles along the diagonals.

Trim the excess triangles

Trim the excess triangles

Trim a line 1/4″ away from the sewn line on each square.  Be careful which side of the seam you cut.  Discard the spare purple and white triangles and press the rest of the purple square open.  The rectangle should now be the same size as before but with a purple triangle on one end.

Add the purple rectangles

Add the purple rectangles

Add the purple rectangles

Place a purple rectangle beside each white rectangle.  Sew them together along the length.

Hummingbird quilt block layout

Hummingbird quilt block layout

Assemble the hummingbird quilt block

Lay the 6.1/2″ purple square in the middle of the block.  Place two half square triangles above the square. Beneath the square place one half square triangle and the small rectangle section.

Down the left hand side of the central square place three half square triangles and a white square.  On the right hand side place a white square followed by a half square triangle and the large rectangle unit.  Check the photo to be sure which way round to place the half square triangles.  I found it helpful to follow the straight lines formed by the diagonals of the half square triangles, with the purple triangles all above or all below the diagonals.

Sew the patchwork pieces together to make three columns and then sew the columns to each other to complete the hummingbird quilt block.  Next week I’ll make the proper Swallows quilt block and write the pattern up!

Basic hummingbird quilt design

Basic hummingbird quilt design

Quilt design ideas

For the basic quilt design I have shown sixteen blocks sewn together in four rows of four.  I think they remind me a little of a computer game – all waiting to be shot!

Alternate hummingbird quilt design

Alternate hummingbird quilt design

For an alternate design I have rotated the blocks and this throws up with some lovely designs.  The white sections take the look of a submarine periscope.

Here’s the video:

 

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Plaid Quilt – Free Pattern Beginner Quilting

Plaid quilt

Plaid quilt

The Plaid quilt block is somewhat unusual looking – it has dark blue strips on two sides only so looks a bit lop sided.  However it makes an interesting quilt because you can rotate the blocks and make quite a difference.  The curtains that I made recently had blue squares and I felt that this quilt would match the room perfectly.

In case you haven’t come across the word before, plaid is another name for tartan.  The block is super easy to make – not a triangle to be seen.

The quilt measures 76″ square using sixteen blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.  I needed 2.1/4 yards of dark blue, 2 yards of light blue, 1.1/4 yards of medium blue together with 3/4 yard of red fabric.  Unfortunately I used up all my dark blue batik fabric so I can’t offer these fabrics as a special this week.




Completed plaid quilt block

Completed plaid quilt block

Cutting requirements for the plaid quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  one hundred and twenty eight medium blue, sixteen light blue, sixty four dark blue

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixty four light blue

15.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen dark blue

18.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  sixteen dark blue

For the border you will need to cut eight 2.1/2″ lengths of red fabric across the width.

Make the nine patch unit

Make 9 patch blocks

Make 9 patch blocks

The simplest way to make the nine patch unit in the middle of the block is by using strip piecing.  Sew together 3.1/2″ strips of fabric along the length:  one panel of medium, dark, medium blue and another panel of dark, light, dark blue.

Cut these panels at 3.1/2″ intervals.  This produces rectangles 9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″, each one made of three squares.  Lay down two of the medium, dark, medium rectangles with a dark, light, dark rectangle between them, as shown on the right of the photo.

Sew the three rectangles to each other to create a 9.1/2″ squares.  You need to make sixteen of these.

Add the first frame

Add the first frame

Make the rest of the block

On each edge of the nine patch unit place a 9.1/2″ light blue rectangle.  Lay a medium blue square in each corner.  Sew these pieces together in three columns and then sew the columns to each other.

Add the dark blue strips

Add the dark blue strips

Now it just remains to add a 15.1/2″ dark blue rectangle across the top and then an 18.1/2″ dark blue rectangle down the left side of the block.

The block now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make sixteen of these.

Rows one and two

Rows one and two

Assemble the plaid quilt

Sew the blocks together in four rows of four.  Concentrate on the dark blue outer strips when laying out the blocks.  In row one the dark blue runs on the left and across the top of the block.  In the second block the dark blue runs across the bottom and up the right side.  This is reversed in the third block where the dark blue runs down the left and then across the bottom.  Finally the fourth block has dark blue on the top and down the right.

In row two the first two blocks have the dark blue across the top and down the left.  The second two blocks have the dark blue across the top and down the right.

Rows three and four

Rows three and four

In row three the dark blue forms an L shape in the first two blocks. The second two blocks have a back to front L instead.

In row four the dark blue runs down the left and across the bottom, then across the top and down the right in the second block.  For the third block the dark blue runs across the top and down the left.  The fourth block has the dark blue running across the bottom and up the right.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete this section.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Add the plaid quilt border

Use 2.1/2″ strips of red to make the border.  I decided to introduce an extra colour for the border as I thought it would give a bit of pop to the quilt.  You’ll need two lengths of 72.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 76.1/2″ for the sides.

That completes the plaid quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Birmingham bear

Birmingham bear

The Bears have come to town!  Two years ago, when I moved to Birmingham, the city was full of owl sculptures.

Birmingham owl

Birmingham owl

They were all decorated in totally different ways and at the end of the summer they were auctioned off and raised huge amounts of money for the Birmingham Children’s Hospital.  They resulted in my Owl and Pussycat quilt pattern.

This year the whole thing is being repeated but with over 100 bears.  The first few are on display already and I saw my first one yesterday.  Needless to say, there will be a teddy bear quilt pattern arriving some time soon!

Twilight Quilt Block – Free Pattern

Twilight quilt block

Twilight quilt block

For the Twilight quilt block I have chosen the sort of muted colours that appear at twilight.  Unfortunately the purple and dark blue don’t look as different in the photos as they do in real life.  It’s a four patch block and I’ve made it here as a 12″ square finished size.

Cutting requirements for the twilight quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  four lilac, two dark blue, two purple

3.7/8″ squares:  two each in lilac and light blue, one each in lilac and dark blue, one each in lilac and purple




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make the half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangles which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and clip the two corners where fabric sticks ouy.

Twilight quilt block layout

Twilight quilt block layout

Make the twilight quilt block

Lay the squares out in four rows of four squares.  The pinwheel in the middle is made with two dark blue/lilac half square triangles and two purple/lilac half square triangles.  Place a lilac and a dark blue square on the top and bottom of the pinwheel.  Lay a lilac and a purple square on either side of the pinwheel.

In each corner place a lilac/light blue half square triangle with the lilac triangle always on the outside, forming the corners of the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.

Basic twilight quilt design

Basic twilight quilt design

Twilight quilt block quilt designs

For the basic quilt design I have shown sixteen blocks placed in four rows of four.  It’s pretty enough but as happens so often the block design is rather lost.

Alternate design

Alternate design

So I tried again using a large pinwheel as an alternate block.  This design uses nine blocks laid out in three rows of three – five twilight quilt blocks and four pinwheel blocks.

I think that this gives a much more pleasing design.  Make the pinwheel blocks from 6.7/8″ squares.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Trip Around the World Quilt Pattern

Trip around the world quilt

Trip around the world quilt

My Trip Around the World quilt is a very simple rectangular quilt.  I have made one before but I’ve had several queries on the pattern recently so I decided that the instructions obviously weren’t as clear as they should be.  I hope that this quilt pattern will remedy that! Plus I feel that this is a much more beautiful quilt.

For this trip around the world quilt I have used bands of colour going from light to dark, slightly larger squares and made a much larger quilt.  I hope that the instructions are also much more clear!  This quilt is made in four quarters which are then joined together with a further strip of squares.

The quilt measures 52.1/2″ by 72.1/2″, using 1/2 yard each of yellow, dark yellow, orange and red fabrics with 1 yard of purple and 1.1/2 yards of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Cutting requirements for the trip around the world quilt

Cut four 3″ strips across the width of fabric in each of the six fabrics.

For the borders you will need a further eleven 3″ strips of white and six 3″ strips of purple fabric.

Please note that all these strips are 3″ cut size, giving 2.1/2″ finished size.

Sew 6 strips of fabric into panels

Sew 6 strips of fabric into panels

Make the tubes of fabric

Sew one strip of each fabric together in a panel fading from dark to light.  Make four of these.  Cut these panels in half so that you have eight panels – each one 15.1/2″ by roughly 21″.

Press the seam allowances in alternate directions

Press the seam allowances in alternate directions

Press the seam allowances in alternate directions across each panel.  In the photo you can see that alternate seam allowances point up while the others point down.  This means that you can nest the seam allowances together when you sew strips to each other.  It makes for a much neater quilt.

Create a tube of fabric

Create a tube of fabric

Place two panels with right sides together, making sure that the purple strip of one panel lies against the white of the other panel.  Sew a seam across the top and the bottom of each pair of panels, joining the white and purple strips to each other at top and at bottom only.

This will create a tube of fabric about 21″ long and containing twelve strips of fabric.  These tubes are open at each end.

Cut the tubes into loops

Cut the tubes into loops

Cut the strips of fabric

Now you need to cut each tube of fabric at 3″ intervals.  This creates individual loops which are 3″ wide and contain twelve squares.  You need to cut seven loops from each tube.  Each quarter of the quilt is made with six loops and the remaining four loops make sashing to join the quarters together.

Unpick one seam to create a strip

Unpick one seam to create a strip

First quarter of the trip around the world quilt

For this section I have begun the layout from the right hand side and worked towards the left.  I wanted to be sure that the middle of the quilt looked as I wanted it to.  Make each strip by unpicking the seam between two of the squares.

For the first strip (right hand side) unpick the seam between light yellow and white.  Place this strip with yellow at the bottom and white at the top.  In this quarter I want the colours to move downwards from top right to bottom left.  So in the second strip unpick the seam between dark yellow and light yellow.  Place the strip with dark yellow at the bottom.    The third strip needs to have orange at the bottom, so unpick the seam between orange and red.  Continue with the rest of the six strips.  Always hold the tube against the strip next to it to check that the colours are moving correctly before you unpick the seam.

Sew the six strips to each other to complete the first quarter of the trip around the world quilt.  Make two of these.  One will form the top left quarter of the quilt and the other will form the bottom right section.

Second quarter

Second quarter

Make the second quarter

In this quarter I have placed the strips from left to right, so that again I am moving from the middle towards the edge.  The photo shows the completed first quarter on the left and then the first strips of the second quarter on the left.

Begin with a strip that has light yellow at the bottom.  Yes, this is the same as the nearest strip of the first quarter!  The idea now is that the colours move down from top left to bottom right, so you have the same strips but placed in the reverse order.  Unpick the second strip of this quarter so that dark yellow is at the bottom, then orange and continue with red, purple and white to mirror the first quarter.

Sew the strips to each other to complete the second quarter.  Make two of these.  They will form the top left and bottom right sections of the quilt.

Place sashing vertically between the sections

Place sashing vertically between the sections

Assemble the trip around the world quilt

Lay the four quarters out as shown.  The first panels are diagonally opposite each other, as are the second panels.  Rotate them so that the light yellow squares are always in the middle.

You should have four loops left over.  Place one of these between the top two sections.  Unpick the seam between white and purple so that the white square is at the bottom, between the two light yellow squares.  Repeat with another strip between the bottom two sections.

Sew the panels together across each half of the quilt.

Add the horizontal sashing

Add the horizontal sashing

Add the sashing between the half sections

You now have two half sections of the quilt.  Each one of these measures 30.1/2″ long by 33″ wide.  Now you need to make the sashing to join the two halves together.

Take the remaining two loops and place them between the two sections.  Unpick the seam of the left hand loop between purple and red so that the purple square will be the centre of the row.  You need seven squares only, so also unpick the seam after the next purple square so that the strip will run from purple to purple.  The leftover squares will be used in the second border.

Unpick the other loop between purple and white so that you can place a white square next to the purple of the first strip.  You need six squares only so unpick the other end after the purple.

Sew the halves together

Sew the halves together

Sew the two sections of the sashing together to create one strip and then sew the halves of the quilt to the sashing.  Your quilt top should now measure 32.1/2″ by 62.1/2″.

Add the first border

Add the first border

Add the first border

The first border runs down the sides of the quilt only.  Make two strips of white 3″ wide by 62.1/2″ long and sew one to each side of the quilt.

The second border

Use up the leftover squares

Use up the leftover squares

In the second border I wanted to use up the remaining few squares left of the loops.  This border also runs down the sides of the quilt only.  Unpick the seams so that you have two strips running from red to light yellow.

Make four white strips 3″ by 26.1/2″ long.  Sew one on each side of each set of squares.

Pin the squares in place

Pin the squares in place

Attach one to each side of the quilt.

In order to be sure that the squares remained in the middle of the quilt, I pinned them in place first and then smoothed the white to the ends.  The seam between dark yellow and orange should lie half way across the purple square at the middle of the edge of the quilt.

The third border

This border is the first one to run all the way round the quilt.  I wanted to enclose the squares in the second border to make them stand out.  Cut two 3″ lengths of white fabric 62.1/2″ long.  Sew these to the sides of the quilt.  Cut two 3″ lengths of white 49.1/2″ long and sew these to the top and bottom of the quilt.

Add the fourth border

Add the fourth border

The final border of the trip around the world quilt

Finally!  I made the fourth and last border with 3″ strips of purple fabric to give a strong frame to the quilt.  Cut two lengths of 67.1/2″ for the sides of the quilt.  Then add two lengths of 54.1/2″ to the top and bottom.

That completes the trip around the world quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.

Here’s the video:

Rutland Water

Rutland Water

Last week I had lunch with some old friends – obviously by ‘old’ I mean long standing rather than ancient!  They took me to see Rutland Water which was fascinating.  It’s one of the largest man made lakes in Europe and was made by building a dam across the Gwash Valley.  It was only completed in 1975 so is relatively new but the area has been beautifully developed as a nature reserve and water sports centre.

There is a track for walking around the lake, but as it’s about 27 miles we didn’t attempt that.

 

Alaska Quilt Block – Free Pattern

Alaska quilt block

Alaska quilt block

The Alaska quilt block is quite a large one, but it has some interesting features.  I looked at it and decided that it would be easiest to make four quarters and then sew them together.  Wrong!!  I did that and found that the central area came out all wrong.  The block obviously isn’t completely symmetrical, so I’ve shown it in sections instead.

I’ve made it as a 24″ square finished size.  You could make it as a 16″ square if you used 2.1/2″ and 2.7/8″ squares.




Cutting requirements for the Alaska quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  four light blue, eight white

9.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  four light blue

6.1/2″ by 3.1/2″ rectangles:  four light blue

3.7/8″ squares:  eight each in dark blue/light blue, eight each in light blue/white, sixteen each in dark blue/white

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the colour combinations listed above.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the darker fabric and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Make the central area of the Alaska quilt block

Central section

Central section

Begin with four dark blue/white half square triangles in the middle of the block.  Place these so that there are two larger dark blue triangles on the sides and two larger white triangles on the top and bottom.

Add two white squares on each edge of the central four patch.  Then add a dark blue/white half square triangle in each corner, forming the corners of this section.  It was these triangles which came out wrong when I tried to make this block in four quarters.

Add the outer frames

Bottom two rows

Bottom two rows

I’ve shown the bottom two rows of the block on their own first.  I thought that it would be clearer for you to see just the two rows first rather than the entire outer frames.

In the middle place two light blue/white half square triangles with two dark blue/white half square triangles beneath them.  On either side of the light blue triangles place a 9.1/2″ light blue rectangle.  Outside the dark blue triangles place a dark blue/light blue half square triangle on each side and then a 6.1/2″ light blue rectangle on each side.

Alaska quilt block full layout

Alaska quilt block full layout

This pattern is repeated on each edge of the central section.  If you place the top two rows next, then you will find that for the sides you only need to add four pairs of squares to each side.  Make sure that you always create a white diamond and two dark blue triangles on the edges of the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Alaska quilt block.

Quilt design ideas

Basic Alaska quilt design

Basic Alaska quilt design

The basic quilt idea is made with nine blocks sewn together in three rows of three.

It is a pretty quilt, but I felt that the design of the block was rather lost.

Using white sashing

Using white sashing

So for the next version I used white sashing to separate the blocks.  I thought that this looked much better but it still didn’t feel quite right.

With blue sashing

With blue sashing

Then I changed the sashing to dark blue and this is definitely the one that I liked best.

Thanks for visiting my blog.  I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

Here’s the video:

Aunt Sukeys Choice Quilt Pattern

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt

I’ve made the Aunt Sukeys Choice quilt using two colour variations of that quilt block and a simple block of squares in the middle of the quilt.  It’s a rectangular quilt, measuring 60″ by 96″, using fifteen blocks which are all 18″ square finished size.  I find that the longer I look at this quilt, the more diamond shapes appear within it.

The fabric required is 1.3/4 yards each of pink and green with 3.1/4 yards of white fabric.  You can buy these fabrics at a discount in this week’s special offer.




Completed quilt blocks

Completed quilt blocks

Cutting requirements for the Aunt Sukeys Choice quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  fifty six white, fifty green, forty six pink

3.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ rectangles:  fifty six white, sixteen pink, twelve green

3.7/8″ squares:  forty eight each in pink and white, sixty four each in green and white

For the border you will need to cut four 2.1/2″ strips of pink, four 2.1/2″ strips of green and eight 1.1/2″ strips of white – all across the width of fabric.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Make the half square triangles

Use all the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in the pairings listed above.  Place a white square right sides together with a pink or a green square and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.

This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the pink or green and trim the two corners where fabric sticks out.

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt block layout

Aunt Sukeys choice quilt block layout

Make the first Aunt Sukeys choice quilt block

Lay the squares out in six rows of six.  Usually I would show you the central section first for simplicity.  For this block I have used several rectangles in order to save time and I think it will be more clear if I tell you the rows individually.

So the top and bottom rows have a pink square at each end with a white square just inside the corners.  In the middle place two pink/white half square triangles.  These should make a large pink triangle pointing up in the top row but pointing down in the sixth row.  Make rows two and five with a white rectangle at each end and a pair of pink/white half square triangles in the middle.  These should form a large white triangle pointing up in row two but pointing down in row five.

The middle rows – rows three and four – need a pair of pink/white half square triangles at each end and a green rectangle in the middle.  In each row the two red triangles together should form a stripe the same as the ones at the top and bottom of the block.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the block.  This now measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make six of this version.

Layout for second block

Layout for second block

Make the second block

For the second block the layout is exactly the same but with the pink and green reversed.

Sew the squares together in the same way.  This block also measures 18.1/2″ square and you need to make eight of this version.

Make the central block

Central block layout

Central block layout

The central block is simply 3.1/2″ pink and green squares alternating across the six rows and down the six columns.

I made pairs of squares first by sewing together 3.1/2″ strips of pink and green and cutting them at 3.1/2″ intervals.  That was purely to save time.  Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.  This block is 18.1/2″ square and you need to make only one.

Rows one and five

Rows one and five

Assemble the Aunt Sukeys Choice quilt

Sew the blocks together in five rows of three blocks.  In rows one and five place a block with a red centra at each end and a block with a green centre in the middle of the rows.

Rows two and four

Rows two and four

For rows two and four the blocks are reversed – a green centre at each end and a red centre in the middle of the row.

Central row

Central row

Row three, the central row, obviously contains the squared central block.  Place a block with a red centre on either side of it.

Sew the blocks together across each row and then sew the rows to each other.

Add the quilt border

Make squares for the border

Make squares for the border

I wanted something a bit different for the quilt border.

Sew together 2.1/2″ strips of pink or green with 1.1/2″ strips of white fabric.  Cut these at 3.1/2″ intervals to give 3.1/2″ squares.  These are two thirds colour and one third white.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Sew these squares together in strips, alternating both the colour and also whether the white strip is at the top or bottom of the square.  You will need two strips of eighteen squares for the top and bottom of the quilt.

For the sides of the quilt, sew together two strips of thirty squares each.  Add a 3.1/2″ pink square at each end of each of these strips.  These are the cornerstones.  Sew one strip to each side of the quilt top.  I like to think that this border gives the impression of running stitches or weaving around the quilt.

That completes the Aunt Sukeys choice quilt top.  It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding.  Full details of these steps can be found in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

Kinver cave houses

Kinver cave houses

In my travels last week I went on a wonderful walk in a nearby area called Kinver.  The point of the walk was to climb a hill with spectacular views over the countryside, but at the foot of the hill were several houses that had been built in caves.  They were absolutely fascinating.

Apparently they had been lived in until about fifty years ago.  Unfortunately I couldn’t go inside them that day, but I’ll definitely go back on another day when they are open to the public.  They would probably have been lovely and cool during our recent heatwave!

Victoria Square Quilt Block Pattern

Victoria Square quilt block

Victoria Square quilt block

The Victoria Square quilt block pattern is a stunner – it reminds me of green parks and pinwheel whirls.  There is a Victoria Square in Birmingham, but it’s more statues and steps rather than greenery.  The block is classified as a nine patch and I have made it here as an 18″ square.

Cutting requirements for the Victoria Square quilt block

3.1/2″ squares:  four light green, four dark green, eight white

3.7/8″ squares:  six each in light green and white, four each in dark green and white




Make half square triangle units

Make half square triangle units

Make the half square triangle units

Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make half square triangle units in both light green and white and in dark green and white.  Place a white square right sides together with a green square and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ square either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This makes two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.  Press the seam allowances towards the green and trim the two corners where the fabric sticks out.

Central area

Central area

Make the Victoria Square quilt block central area

I’ve shown the layout in two stages.  The first section uses dark green and white only.  Place four dark green/white half square triangles in the middle to form a pinwheel.  On each edge of the pinwheel place a green and a white 3.1/2″ square.  In each case place the green square so that it touches the green triangle of the pinwheel.

In each corner place a dark green/white half square triangle.  Check the photo to be sure that you have the triangles placed correctly.

Victoria Square quilt block complete layout

Victoria Square quilt block complete layout

Complete the layout

Make the outer layer of this quilt block with only light green and white.  The pieces follow a pattern if you begin in the top left corner and follow the frame of the block around in a clockwise direction.

Across the top you have a light green triangle, green square, two light green triangles and a white square.  These form an upside down mountain first, then a larger white triangle pointing outwards and then a white square and white triangle next to each other.

The top right corner is a green/white half square triangle and then the other pieces follow in the same pattern down the right hand side of the block.  The same happens across the bottom of the block (working from right to left) and then again up the left hand side.

Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows to each other to complete the Victoria Square quilt block.

Basic quilt design

Basic quilt design

Quilt designs

I have shown first the basic quilt design with sixteen blocks arranged in four rows of four.  I’m not too keen on this as you lose the whirligig shape of the block design.

Alternate Victoria Square quilt design

Alternate Victoria Square quilt design

As an alternative I tried several different colours as well as the greens and was very pleased with this design.  You could either use a distinct pattern as I have done, or you could make every block a different colour as a scrappy quilt.

Here’s the video:

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

%d bloggers like this: