The stained glass quilt pattern is always a favourite. I’ve used batiks because I always feel that black really makes the colours of batiks zing. When making a stained glass quilt with curved edges you are probably used to using the ready made bias tape and ironing it on, but for this stained glass quilt I have used straight edges only and have added the black in as a 1/4″ sashing between the sections. The method that I have used makes this a really simple quilt to make – not a triangle in sight!
The quilt measures 40″ square and I have used 1/4 yard each of four different fabrics with 3/4 yard of the fifth fabric and 3/4 yard of black. I have run out of black so the special offer this week is for the batiks only – 1.3/4 yards of batiks at a discount of 10%.
Cutting requirements for the batik stained glass quilt
For each block you will need four 3.1/2″ by 6.1/2″ rectangles and one 3.1/2″ square – that’s sixty four rectangles and sixteen squares. To get these from my five fabrics I cut two 3.1/2″ strips of four of the fabrics and three of the fifth fabric
From the black fabric cut twenty 1″ strips across the width of fabric
For the border you will need four 2.1/2″ strips cut across the width of one of the fabrics
How to make the stained glass quilt blocks
The black sashing is made using 1″ strips of black fabric sewn within each block rather than added on to the edge. This makes it a very simple method because you are not changing the size of each section when you add the sashing.
Fold the strips in half along the length and press to create a fold mark along the strips. For each stained glass quilt block you will need one 3.1/2″ length, two 6.1/2″ lengths and one 9.1/2″ length. You need sixteen blocks to complete the stained glass quilt.
Before you begin sewing the blocks, a quick word about needles. Batik fabrics are generally made from fabric that has a higher thread count and is more densely woven than normal quilting fabrics. You may find your needle thumping a bit as it sews batiks. The answer is to use a slightly thinner needle than usual – and make sure it’s a sharp needle. If you normally use a 75/11 or 80/12, you may want to try a 70/10. This should have less difficulty slipping between the threads of the fabric.
Lay the batiks out with three rectangles on the left hand side and a square and rectangle on the right hand side. Place the black strips between all the pieces.
Lay a black strip along the edge of a rectangle or square and unfold it. Sew the strip to the rectangle along the fold line. That makes the seam line 1/2″ from the edge of the fabric. Press the black back over the stitching. This is one of those times when it’s worth just leaving your iron on – you need to press each time you sew a seam.
At this stage you have three layers of fabric at the edge of those pieces with sashing. You could trim the two lower layers by 1/4″ before you fold the black fabric back over the seam. This would reduce the bulk in your seams. I have to confess that I didn’t do this, but I feel that I must tell you the more correct way of doing it!
Sew the next rectangle to the black edge using a 1/4″ seam. This will give you a 1/4″ black sashing between the two pieces – but you haven’t had to cope with sewing very thin sashing strips between the rectangles.
Continue sewing the pieces of the block together. Sew the three rectangles together using sashing strips on the left hand side and sew the square and rectangle together on the right. Then sew the two sections together using the 9.1/2″ length of sashing.
Make sixteen stained glass quilt blocks.
Assembling the batik stained glass quilt
The blocks are sewn together in four rows of four. The sashing between the blocks is made in exactly the same way – sew a 9.1/2″ length of sashing to the right hand side of the first block and then sew the second block to it.
I have rotated the blocks just to make the quilt more interesting. If you look at the squares of the blocks, in the first block the square is on the top right while in the second block the square is on the bottom left of the block. I’m not sure whether this was necessary – I suspect that just placing the blocks randomly wouldn’t have looked much different.
You will need three sashing strips between the four blocks in each row. Don’t sew sashing to the ends of the rows at this stage.
Make five 36.1/2″ lengths of sashing to sew the rows of the stained glass quilt to each other. Sew a sashing strip to the top and the bottom of the quilt as well as between each row.
For the sides of the quilt you will need two 36.1/2″ lengths of sashing. It’s easier to sew them on as one long strip rather than adding sashing to the sides of each row.
Stained glass quilt border
I hadn’t intended to use an additional border, but I decided that the sashing strips wouldn’t be too easy to sew the binding to, so I added 2.1/2″ strips of one of the batik fabrics for a border. You will need two lengths of 36.1/2″ for the top and bottom and two lengths of 40.1/2″ for the sides. Now you can use black for the binding to complete the stained glass effect.
That completes the stained glass quilt top. It is now ready for layering, quilting and binding. Full details of these steps can be found in the quilting for beginners section.
Here’s the video:
Last week I made a puff quilt cushion which is probably more of a seat pad – something that you can carry around with you and be comfortable wherever you are. You can click on puff quilt to see it.