Bullseye Quilt Pattern

 

Bullseye quilt

Bullseye quilt

The bullseye quilt pattern was originally based on the bullseye quilt block, but I have changed the block so much that I should really have given the quilt a new name.  What I was hoping to achieve was the star in the middle and then the other squares forming a diamond frame around it.

The quilt measures 48″ square and I have used 1/2 yard each of red and sunflower fabric with 3/4 yard each of brown, blue and white.  It’s quite a dark quilt in the sense that I have used three dark colours with just one medium (the sunflower) and one light fabric (the white).  As usual, you can buy these fabrics at a 10% discount on the normal fabric price.  For more details click on this week’s special offer.

Cutting requirements for the bullseye quilt

3.1/2″ squares:  twenty eight red, twenty four brown, thirty two sunflower, thirty two white

3.7/8″ squares: sixteen each in blue and white, twenty four each in brown and white

For the border you will need four 3.1/2″ strips of blue fabric – two of them 42.1/2″ long for the top and bottom of the bullseye quilt and two of them 46.1/2″ long for the sides.

Make half square triangles

Make half square triangles

Making the quilt block

You’ll be pleased to see that there are not too many half square triangles in the bullseye quilt.  Use the 3.7/8″ squares to make these in either blue and white or brown and white.  Place two squares with right sides together and mark a line along the diagonal.  Sew a 1/4″ seam either side of the marked line and cut along the line.  This will produce two half square triangle units which are now 3.1/2″ squares.

Quilt block layout for the bullseye quilt

Quilt block layout for the bullseye quilt

Lay the patchwork squares out in seven rows of seven.  This is quite an unusual size – I can’t remember when I last made a seven patch unit.

The red squares are placed in the corners and along the central part of one diagonal.  They are surrounded by first the sunflower squares and then the brown squares.

The blue triangles are placed around each corner in a butterfly shape and the brown triangles are placed to form two triangles so that the overall impression is of a brown square surrounding the central blocks.  Making the block is straightforward now – just sew the squares together across the rows and then sew the rows to each other.  You will need to make four of these blocks.

Completed block for the bullseye quilt

Completed block for the bullseye quilt

Assembling the bullseye quilt

Sew the blocks together in two pairs and then sew the pairs together.  You will need to rotate the blocks to form the diamond shape surrounding the central star.  If you look at the red squares, you can follow which way to rotate the blocks – in the top pair of blocks the red squares go from the bottom left to the top right of the first block and then from the top left to the bottom right of the second block.

Add the quilt border

Add the quilt border

Adding the bullseye quilt border

I tried all the fabrics for the 3.1/2″ border but decided that I liked the blue best.  Sew a 42.1/2″ strip to the top and one to the bottom. Finally sew a 46.1/2″ length to each side.

The bullseye quilt top is now complete and ready for layering, quilting and binding.  You can find full details of these steps in the beginner quilting section.

Here’s the video:

I know that a lot of places have had a lot of snow, which we haven’t here in Ludlow, but it’s still uncomfortably cold if you’re outside.  I’m still sorting out my father’s house so together with my sewing I have plenty of reason to stay inside in the warm!

My Blouse Making Efforts

Blouse making

Blouse making

I’ve made the blouse that I wanted to make using the fabric that I bought in Birmingham – and I am thrilled with the pattern – it really is very simple.  Having said that, I did manage to mess up the neckline, but that was my stupidity rather than the fault of the pattern instructions.

Some pleats around the neckline

Some pleats around the neckline

Blouse making

I chose the pattern for its simplicity and I wasn’t disappointed.  I cut out two back pieces and a front, sewed a few pleats along the front neckline and sewed them all together.

The sleeves were standard – a bit of gathering around the top of the sleeves and then they could be sewn to the rest of the blouse.  So far, so good!

The blouse neckline

The blouse neckline

Then I let myself down when I came to the neckline.  I read the instructions twice so that I thought that I understood what I was doing.  In the photo you can see the neckline with the neck band pinned to it – it looks white because of the interfacing, although the fabric I chose for the neck band is actually red.  The band didn’t quite fit the neckline but no problem – I eased it and pushed and pulled a bit to make it fit.  When you look at the photo, don’t you think it looks logical to pin it on that way?

It wasn’t until I had sewn it all together that I realised that the longer edge of the neckband should have been sewn to the blouse, not the shorter edge.  By that time I had already clipped the neckline to the stitching so there was no option of unpicking it.  I just finished it off with several bumps and lumps – I will just have to be sure and wear a scarf with it.  I liked the pattern so much that I will definitely make it again – I’ve got some lovely Art Gallery fabrics that would be great for blouse making.

Lavender bags

Lavender bags

Other sewing

Outside of my blouse making, I’ve been experimenting with making lavender bags using some organza to help the lavender smell strongly.  They turned out to be quicker to make than the ones that I usually make.  I sewed together two strips of fabric with a strip of organza between them and then just cut off lengths, folded them in half and sewed the bottom and the one side with a bit of ribbon caught in the stitching.  There was no hand sewing at all and I love the way that they look.

Thanks for visiting my blog.

I hope to see you again soon.

Rose

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